FC and CYA - Justifying the increased cost of Liquid Chlorine

ibondsmith

New member
Apr 30, 2025
3
Southern Califoirna
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello and thanks to all of you for this amazing resource!

I am a new pool owner living in a long-term (3-4 years) temporary home after my family's home burned down earlier this year in the Eaton Fire in Altadena, CA. I am eager to learn and have read through the Pool School materials which are really great! I intend to order a tf-100 or tf-Pro kit to help me take care of our new pool. We always thought of putting in a pool in Altadena, so having one now will give us something to enjoy as a family and give me some experience with what it takes (time and money) to properly care for a pool.

First my current numbers (as measured by my local pool store which is 1 mile away):
FC: 1.31
TC: 1.45
PH: 7.7
TA: 112
CH: 220
CYA: 48
Iron: 0.1
Copper: 0.2
Phosphates: 326

I realize the pool store is not the way to go and I will be ordering the tf-100 or tf-Pro shortly.

Some history on this pool:

The person who lived here before me installed the pool and cared for it himself for 26 years. He said he always used 3" pucks year round and 1lb of weekly powdered shock during the swim season. The only other chemicals he added was some muriatic acid about 3 times a year to keep the PH down. He said he kept 4 pucks in the floater and added 1-2 per week max during the winter and 2-3 per week in the summer on top of the partially dissolved pucks.

He brushed the pool 1-2 times a week and used a Zodiac G3 automatic pool cleaner which he left behind for me. He ran the pump on high for 3 hours in the morning (during which the G3 did its thing) followed by 6 hours on low (not sufficient pressure to move the G3). I have maintained this schedule since moving in about a month ago.

When I asked him rabout CYA increases he said in the 26 years he only ever replaced about 1,000 gallons of water twice. The pool was replastered this past October, and he used LC until January and then switched back to pucks.

So the question is does it really make sense for me to switch to LC since it seems like he had success with this particular pool using pucks without significant need for water exchange. I have been reviewing the forums and it looks like I will need to add approximately 1 gallon of 10% LC a day to my 20,000 gallon pool (at CYA of 50). (see How much liquid chlorine is normal?)

The cheepest chlorene I have found is $0.437/oz ($6.99 for a gallon of 12.5%). Assuming an approximate .8 conversion rate for 10% to 12.5%, this would mean $5.59 of 12.5 LC needs to be added every day, $167/month during the swim season. Does my math seem about right or am I missing something here? If this number is correct it would far exceed the cost to continuing to use pucks.

Thank you for your thoughts and thanks again for creating this community!
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

Being in SoCal, it may be that you have high CYA degradation. I'm not sure your approach is sustainable.
3 pucks a week is 8.2 FC. and add 5 CYA. So 20 CYA per month...that is high, but not out of the realm of possibility.
The weekly shock is likely cal-hypo...which adds calcium, and like CYA only draining removes it. I don't think you get enough rain to pump out enough to lower it.
Normal FC consumption is 3-5 per day, so on the low end, you use 21FC per week. The powdered shock likely is how he got by.

As to the cost side, here are comparisons for your pool size. Don't know the price of the pucks you get, but this is fair comparison with your pool size. Installing an SWG is the way to lower your cost per FC.

1746485727560.png

Kinda doesn't matter what you do at this point, without a kit, you don't know where you stand. Get the kit, do your tests, then if you want, follow his routine and report your numbers for a week. Then we can figure out what is going on...
 
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I live in the same general climate. I previously used CYA-stabilized tablets the past and can tell you they are not a sustainable form of chlorination in our area. Neither is Cal-hypo. Go SWG.
 
My IC60 makes about 1000 gallons of 10% LC worth of chlorine. It'd cost me $6166 at Walmart. . I really don't care what the cell or install is going for, $3600 would be very high, and still save me $2500+ . Cells 2+ are $1800 reusing the controller and no install costs.

He said he kept 4 pucks in the floater
That's 11 FC weekly and not nearly enough for SoCal which is why he needed to shock it weekly. That pool wasn't sanitary. No way, no how. Maybe on day 7 some weeks but not usually.

You'll either be as unsanitary, or add more trichlor if you want to be sanitary.
I will be ordering the tf-100 or tf-Pro shortly.
I had both. The TF100 is entirely functional but I would have paid for the organization of the TFpro for that alone. I appreciate it every time I open it. The smart stir included in the Pro is a must have so that narrows the gap when you add it to the TF100 and the pro case is worth every every penny left IMO.

Also decide on salt or not if possible because thats a $10 bundle savings getting the TF100 salt or TFpro salt. They throw in the $30 k1766 for $20.
 
Thank you for your response.
Welcome to TFP!!!

Being in SoCal, it may be that you have high CYA degradation. I'm not sure your approach is sustainable.
3 pucks a week is 8.2 FC. and add 5 CYA. So 20 CYA per month...that is high, but not out of the realm of possibility.
The weekly shock is likely cal-hypo...which adds calcium, and like CYA only draining removes it. I don't think you get enough rain to pump out enough to lower it.
Normal FC consumption is 3-5 per day, so on the low end, you use 21FC per week. The powdered shock likely is how he got by.

As to the cost side, here are comparisons for your pool size. Don't know the price of the pucks you get, but this is fair comparison with your pool size. Installing an SWG is the way to lower your cost per FC.

View attachment 643313

Kinda doesn't matter what you do at this point, without a kit, you don't know where you stand. Get the kit, do your tests, then if you want, follow his routine and report your numbers for a week. Then we can figure out what is going on...
I will order the kit and get going.

In the meantime, if I am reading your chart correctly it seems like the $1,100 DIY SWG would pay for itself in 13.58 months assuming 3 FC per day at a $0.90 delta between LC and SWG: ($1,100/ (0.9 x 3 x 30) = 13.58. Of course I may not need 3 FC per day ever month of the year, but during during swim season with lots of teenagers in the pool I will likely need more than 3 FC/day, so 3 throughout the year seems like a good estimate. Are my numbers right here? If so, the SWG seems like the way to go even if I am just a renter here for the next three years.

So that begs the questions...what SWG would you all recommend for my pool? I understand that I should opt for a unit with a 40k gal capacity for my 20k gal pool (to run the unit less while still generating the FC I need). I have a Pentair Easy Touch controler (pictures attached) and have read that going with a Pentair SWG give one more functionality. I don't mind setting the SWG settings at the unit so if that's all it is price would be a bigger consideration. I have also read that some ET controllers come with what is needed for a complete install while others do not. Any advise and/or links to previous posts would be appreciated.

Lastly a few questions regarding your chart:

1. What are the units represented by a 10,000 "cell life"
2. Is the "total FC" (listed at 5,000) to total FC the unit can produce before the cell must be replaced? If so does this mean a SWG should last about 4.5 years assuming an average of 3 FC/day over the court of a year?

Thank you again for your help!
 

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Are my numbers right here?
Yes, over the year. UV is higher in summer and lower in winter.
what SWG would you all recommend for my pool?
With Pentair automation? Pentair IC-40.
1. What are the units represented by a 10,000 "cell life"
Hours
2. Is the "total FC" (listed at 5,000) to total FC the unit can produce before the cell must be replaced? If so does this mean a SWG should last about 4.5 years assuming an average of 3 FC/day over the court of a year?
If you run the cell at 100% (NOT recommended) for 10,000 hours it will produce that FC in your pool volume. It may last less than 10K hours, may last more. Just an estimate. But yes, 4.5 years is 5,000 FC for 365day/year for FC demand of 3. However, if you run the % output lower, the "years" is longer. If you run at 50%, 24/7, that would still be 5,000 FC but 9 years on the cell life. There are so many variables, but generally you got it.
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@Jimrahbe or @ajw22 can better advise you on Pentair automation advice and requirements.
 
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Are you planning on installing a pool in your next home? If so, consider taking the SWG with you when you leave. It would just be a matter of disconnecting the control panel from the power source and a quick plumbing repair. This would make your decision to go with the SWG much more cost-effective.
 
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They going to their "Goa-tel" before sunset to keep them safe from from predators.
Maybe I need a "Goa-tel" and go to bed before sunset to not be "outed" by @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta twice in the same day.
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I do my best...which is better than most, but not perfect....as you have pointed out. Love 'ya brother!

Sorry for the highjack @ibondsmith we get silly sometimes, but we are all trying to help!