Pump advice please

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Lykly

Lykly

Gold Supporter
Nov 6, 2015
977
Ok ok
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Well when it rains it pours for me. Not only is my saltwater cell probably needs replacing but I’m afraid my Pentair pump is also on its last leg. I purchased this in April of 2016 and has pretty much run 24/7 ever since. It developed a leak about two months ago, but more concerning that it now has started making some concerning noises and as old as it is, I don’t know that it’s worth repairing?

Pentair 011018 IntelliFlo Variable Speed High Performance Pool Pump, 3 Horsepower, 230 Volt, 1 Phase​


If I do need to replace it, wondering how big of pump I really need? I have ~13K in ground pool, only water features I have or some small waterfalls and a little fountain I can divert water to in the shallow wading area. I saw them use either and when I do, it’s just a matter of simple valve manipulation at the pump. My pump equipment does sit quite a bit above the pool water level so it has to be self priming. Probably 6 feet higher. Looking for recommendations. Thank you.
 
What noise is it making? Where was the leak coming from?

Pentair IntelliFlo Replacement Motor 3.2 KW, PMSM, VFD - 350105S with GOKIT32 should replace the motor on your current pump. A Pentair Intelliflo3 3Hp is the drop in replacement pump if you want to go that route, but it’s significantly more $$. ​

Check Inyopools for the replacement motor and go kit. They should have it. ​

 
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L,

I assume the leak was under the pump, between the pump and the motor.. If so, the instant you see that, the shaft seal should have been replaced. :(

Personally, I'd replace the whole pump/motor..

You can get a drop-in IntelliFlo, or you can go with the newer IntelliFlo3.. When this happens to me, I plan to upgrade to the IntelliFlo3... the down side is that a little replumbing will be required. You can control the IntelliFlo3 with an app or an automation system..

I like this place...



Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Yes, the leak was a small drip between the motor and pump on the bottom, it actually stopped leaking for a while, and then started again recently. The pump is still working, but I suppose the damage is done? No sense of replacing the seal at this point, I would imagine. The noise is making is a whirring sound kinda hard to explain, but it’s constant and sounds like what it would sound like if a bearing was going out I guess is how I would describe it. I can hear it from quite a few feet away. What is the life expectancy on these pumps and motors? This is almost 10 years old, so I’m wondered if it’s worth trying to repair probably not? Is it necessary to replace the actual pump?

Also, I wanted to add I just went out there and at high RPMs around 2300, The noise pretty much (not entirely) goes away but it’s very evident to lower the RPM all the way down to about 800 which is where I stopped, but it was definitely louder at lower RPM.
 
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L,

I suspect that the wet end, will last forever, except for the shaft seal and associated gaskets/O-Rings..

As you said, water has gotten into the motor and has caused the bearings to go bad... Replacing the motor and shaft seal would probably get you back up and running..

The decision to replace the whole assembly, or just the motor end, is a "how you see life" kind of thing... :)

In my case, I'd replace the whole thing and not have to screw with it for another 12 or more years. You just have to decide which option works best for you.

There is no right or wrong answer here... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thank you for that reply, and I tend to agree with you. I could probably just replace the motor and move on but might not be long before other things need replacing. It served me well with pretty much no maintenance for almost 10 years. There is a significant savings though, I can buy a Pentair OEM motor on Amazon for $639. I am leaning toward replacing the pump and motor.

I have another question, do you think I still need a 3 hp motor? When I put it on back when I first bought my house I replaced the old existing motor with this variable speed. I don’t even know I needed a 3 hp? How do you determine if I need one or not?
 
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Motor swap is pretty easy. You need a go-kit 32.

If it were me, I'd get the SCS version of the shaft seal...I've had way better service as a result. PS-1905.

Here is a video showing how to replace the drive, same concept, except you are replacing the motor...shows how the drive is connected to the motor.

This one shows rebuilding the wet end with the go-kit.

As always, validate parts with your pump and manufacture date on the pump label. I do think there are part changes in 2016 and 2018 on that pump, so always validate with manufacture date on the pump.
 
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Thanks, so the gokit comes with a seal, but you recommend buying an additional upgraded seal? The tag on the motor is beyond recognition, I bought this in April 2016.
 
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PoolStored said:
This is a personal thing. Went through two of the regular seals in a year. The SCS has lasted me three years now. I think it is worth it.
Click to expand...
The original one lasted over nine years, is the one in the kit OEM like the one I had? Thanks for all the help from everybody. I really appreciate it.
 
So just to verify - if I ordered these two items- should be everything I need to replace the motor side? I’m so sorry for all the questions, but based on everything I’ve read here from all everyone’s help, I think I can replaced the motor myself and save some significant money, I just want to make sure I’m ordering the right items.

Pentair WhisperFlo Pool Pump Saltwater Seal Kit Series | By Pureline | GOKIT32SALT - INYOPools.com

Tune Up Kit Pentair/Purex Whisperflo
search.app search.app

 
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Lykly said:
So just to verify - if I ordered these two items- should be everything I need to replace the motor side? I’m so sorry for all the questions, but based on everything I’ve read here from all everyone’s help, I think I can replaced the motor myself and save some significant money, I just want to make sure I’m ordering the right items.


Click to expand...
Looks good. If you get the kit in the picture, it will/should have extra O rings as it is designed for both the old and new style Whisperflo. You won't need them all.
Carefully examine the sealplate for small cracks where the seal is inserted, it happens at times. You may not be able to remove the motor bolts in the sealplate, a leaking seal can cause corrosion at the 4 bolts and the brass insert will break out instead of the bolt un-threading, so be prepared to get a new one. If you do need a new one, get a Whisperflo sealplate from Val-Pak, less expensive and very good quality.
Get a 1" PVC coupler to drive the new seal into the sealplate after putting a very thin coating of silicone sealant on the the stainless-steel cup.
Be sure to get all of the rubber cup that is in the impeller removed before inserting the new. A tiny bit of lube will help it seat better.
DO NOT lube the seal at the faces and be sure nothing gets on them. If it does, clean with some alcohol.
By replacing just the motor, not the drive, all programming should stay the same as with the old motor.
 
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L,

I almost never recommend a smaller 1.5 HP VS pump.. I would vote for 3 HP every time..

I say this as the larger the HP, the slower you can run the pump and still move a lot of water.. The slower you can run the pump, the quieter it will be, and the less it will cost per hour.

Edit... I wrote this earlier but never pushed submit... :(


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thanks a lot everybody, I really appreciate all the help and advice. It will help me avoid almost certain mistakes. Strange thing is I walked back out by my pool equipment and it’s running peaceful for now, still leaking, but no noise. Still after all this time, I think the best that is to replace at least the motor end. That’s what I think I’ll do after thinking about it.

What about the impeller, do you think it will be OK or is it a good idea to change it out as well?
 
1poolman1 said:
Looks good. If you get the kit in the picture, it will/should have extra O rings as it is designed for both the old and new style Whisperflo. You won't need them all.
Carefully examine the sealplate for small cracks where the seal is inserted, it happens at times. You may not be able to remove the motor bolts in the sealplate, a leaking seal can cause corrosion at the 4 bolts and the brass insert will break out instead of the bolt un-threading, so be prepared to get a new one. If you do need a new one, get a Whisperflo sealplate from Val-Pak, less expensive and very good quality.
Get a 1" PVC coupler to drive the new seal into the sealplate after putting a very thin coating of silicone sealant on the the stainless-steel cup.
Be sure to get all of the rubber cup that is in the impeller removed before inserting the new. A tiny bit of lube will help it seat better.
DO NOT lube the seal at the faces and be sure nothing gets on them. If it does, clean with some alcohol.
By replacing just the motor, not the drive, all programming should stay the same as with the old motor.
Click to expand...
I think I’ll go ahead and order this at the same time so in case I need it I have it on hand. If I do not need it, I can always return it. Just want to verify this is the correct part you’re talking about. Thank you again.

 
So happy to report the job is done, I replaced the motor and the seals. I ordered the seal plate just in case I were to snap a bolt like somebody suggested earlier in this thread. I was able to get the bolts out, but after I got the seal plate out, I noticed the hole in the seal set was out of round. I’m wondering if that wasn’t the problem that was making the noise because both sides of seal were shot. The motor shaft and bearing actually look good and turns very easily and quietly. In any case I’m back together letting it sit for 24 hours for the silicone to set up that the instruction said to put around the seal. I’ll see if I can attach a picture of the old seal plate and you’ll see what I mean. I’ll be anxious to see if you think that’s what was causing the noise that came and went. The pump never did quit Pumping.
 

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Lykly said:
So happy to report the job is done, I replaced the motor and the seals. I ordered the seal plate just in case I were to snap a bolt like somebody suggested earlier in this thread. I was able to get the bolts out, but after I got the seal plate out, I noticed the hole in the seal set was out of round. I’m wondering if that wasn’t the problem that was making the noise because both sides of seal were shot. The motor shaft and bearing actually look good and turns very easily and quietly. In any case I’m back together letting it sit for 24 hours for the silicone to set up that the instruction said to put around the seal. I’ll see if I can attach a picture of the old seal plate and you’ll see what I mean. I’ll be anxious to see if you think that’s what was causing the noise that came and went. The pump never did quit Pumping.
Click to expand...
I would always be suspect of any pool part that didn't look right. That side of the seal plate isn't where that half of the seal "seals," but I wouldn't put that back in service if I were doing the repair.
 
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