Copper stains? Among other issues...

TactfulTurtle

Member
Apr 13, 2025
19
southern PA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hello! New to the forum and pool ownership (though my parents had pools growing up). We moved to a house in southern Pennsylvania in October and just opened the pool April 7. We used the same pool company used by the previous owner, which also built the pool in 2008. It is a saltwater inground pool with vinyl lining. The pool also has a gas heater.

My husband took the water to get tested by the pool company the day after opening. Results came back with FC at .32ppm, combined chlorine 0, ph 7.2, alkalinity 73ppm, calcium 152ppm, cyanuric acid 24ppm, iron .1ppm, COPPER .8ppm, phosphate 246ppm, and salt at 2422 ppm. They suggested adding 5lbs alkalinity, 15lbs calcium (after waiting 1 hr), 2 bags of shock in the evening, then 3 bags of salt. I did all of this and retested with my Taylor K2006 kit on April 10. Assuming I did the tests correctly, I came up with FC 2.5ppm, combined chlorine .5ppm, ph 7.6, alkalinity of 80, calcium hardness of 250, CYA of 35, salt at 3200.

Springtime has been blowing a bunch of Crud into the water. I've been cleaning it daily with the robotic vacuum and they dirt is finally going away! The water looks great. This evening, I noticed what I thought was more dirt on the bottom of the pool, but more evenly spread and not in "piles" like before. After some brushing, nothing has changed. It didn't budge like I expected it to. Are these copper stains? The pool guy originally said not to worry about the copper until the system is running for a bit after being closed. But now I am getting worried! I honestly cannot tell if they are new stains or if they have been there the whole time.

On top of this, the pool pilot digital 220 no longer displays words. For the first week it would go between being readable and then having unintelligible characters, like it was crapping out. Now there is display at all. Do I need to replace the circuit board? Is it something I can do myself without any knowledge of that sort of thing? The pool company said the part alone would be $700-800. As a side question, when this system is working properly, I noticed the SWA says OFF. My understanding, based on googling, is that the SWG is OFF below a certain temp. Obviously the water is cold still. Is that causing any sort of issue with throwing off the balance of chemicals? If its not making chlorine...or does it matter at this point?

It's the middle of the night and these issues that keep popping up are making me lose sleep. I'd love to properly care for my pool, just as my dad did for his. I am desperately trying to learn as much as possible but I am feeling overwhelmed at the moment. My apologies if I included too much in this one post. Still learning how things work around here!
 

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First thing is read about the TFP method.

Pool Care Basics

This method relies on owner participation and testing. Testing with a high quality kit is key. Pool stores are simply hit or miss with their testing. This is the one you need. TF-Pro Salt

Test Kits Compared

The only way to get rid of copper is to do a water exchange. Your copper probably came from a copper based algaecide which are not recommended by TFP.

Welcome aboard! You have taken the first step towards HAPPY pool ownership!
 
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Hey TT and Welcome!!! :wave:


CYA of 35,
The sample needs to be warmed up to room temp. Cool water messes this one up. The other tests aren't affected.
My understanding, based on googling, is that the SWG is OFF below a certain temp. Obviously the water is cold still. Is that causing any sort of issue with throwing off the balance of chemicals?
There are no changes for you from cold water. You just need to manually dose FC while it's too cool for the SWG. But if it's that cool, the daily demnd is very low so a gallon of bleach lasts days or a week.
or does it matter at this point?
Fc always matters. You need to be free and clear above min for your CYA. (Also, round up to the next 10 once you get a new test in good sun).

You dose to still be above min next time you test. If you're losing 1ppm a day and you added 5 ppm, you'll be golden for 4 days. (Etc). Mid season you could lose 4ppm a day if you lost the swg and that requires larger doses with the same mission to stay above min at all times.


lc_chart.jpg
 
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First thing is read about the TFP method.

Pool Care Basics

This method relies on owner participation and testing. Testing with a high quality kit is key. Pool stores are simply hit or miss with their testing. This is the one you need. TF-Pro Salt

Test Kits Compared

The only way to get rid of copper is to do a water exchange. Your copper probably came from a copper based algaecide which are not recommended by TFP.

Welcome aboard! You have taken the first step towards HAPPY pool ownership!

Thank you! I have read over some stuff, but will absolutely be doing a deeper dive. Having a 9month old baby makes it challenging to research as much as I should! But I will be prioritizing it now. I THINK when the pool was winterized, there was algaecide put in a a little basket inside the pool pump. It's still there. Temps are still pretty cool here, so the SWG is not running. Not sure if that needs to be removed or best to stay in while its too cold for the SWG? The previous owner has a bottle from the local pool store called Algae Control 60. I'm not sure if thats what was used and if thats the same thing as the Polyquat 60 (but sounds like it would be?) mentioned in the algaecide article on TFP. I've also heard from someone that it's possible the heater is causing the copper. It sounds like the previous owner did not use the heater much, if that makes a difference. I do know the pool was closed early last year (sept) and we opened in early April. I'm not sure if that was a mistake, other than springtime pollen getting everywhere.
 
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Hey TT and Welcome!!! :wave:



The sample needs to be warmed up to room temp. Cool water messes this one up. The other tests aren't affected.

There are no changes for you from cold water. You just need to manually dose FC while it's too cool for the SWG. But if it's that cool, the daily demnd is very low so a gallon of bleach lasts days or a week.

Fc always matters. You need to be free and clear above min for your CYA. (Also, round up to the next 10 once you get a new test in good sun).

You dose to still be above min next time you test. If you're losing 1ppm a day and you added 5 ppm, you'll be golden for 4 days. (Etc). Mid season you could lose 4ppm a day if you lost the swg and that requires larger doses with the same mission to stay above min at all times.


View attachment 638830

Thanks so much for this! I did not know that temp affected CYA. Will be continuing to read and learn more!
 
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Reading you say ???? Click away below. 😁

Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
TFP Wiki
haha, thanks! Is there a reason why the pool store didn't have me add CYA even though its below their own recommendation? I tested the water again today (I let it come to room temp, if thats appropriate) and it was still lower than my test kit would read (30ppm). Free chlorine is down to 1ppm now. I'd like to add more, but assume I should up the CYA first.

I am also unsure if I should have the store test for the copper again now that the pool has been open for almost two weeks. I assume I would/should add the sequestering agent first? I know that's not a long term fix. But I don't know that I want to drain a bunch of water.
 

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Thank you! I have read over some stuff, but will absolutely be doing a deeper dive. Having a 9month old baby makes it challenging to research as much as I should! But I will be prioritizing it now. I THINK when the pool was winterized, there was algaecide put in a a little basket inside the pool pump. It's still there. Temps are still pretty cool here, so the SWG is not running. Not sure if that needs to be removed or best to stay in while it’s too cold for the SWG? The previous owner has a bottle from the local pool store called Algae Control 60. I'm not sure if thats what was used and if thats the same thing as the Polyquat 60 (but sounds like it would be?) mentioned in the algaecide article on TFP. I've also heard from someone that it's possible the heater is causing the copper. It sounds like the previous owner did not use the heater much, if that makes a difference. I do know the pool was closed early last year (sept) and we opened in early April. I'm not sure if that was a mistake, other than springtime pollen getting everywhere.
the thing in the pump basket is may be a device adding copper to the water as a type of algaecide. (I think PoolRX does that kinda thing?) Take it out ASAP.
 
Lots of learning this week! New owner to a 2008 saltwater vinyl pool. 2000gal. Opened the pool on April 7. Tested the water with the pool company, which then made recommendations. We followed said recommendations. I purchased a Taylor K2006 Salt Complete kit.

After everything I have learned on TFP.... why would the pool store NOT recommend adding CYA? My husband was the one who went to the store so I didn't get to hear an explanation firsthand. Am I missing something?

Side note.... copper is high... they said we should test again soon to see if that naturally got sorted out after being open...something along those lines (again, I did not hear firsthand). My concern is potential staining. There are spots on the bottom of the pool that do not brush away. I'm unsure if they are new or have been there, as I have been fighting the spring dirt and debris. Should we pursue using a sequester if its still high when we test again? I'm not particularly interested in lowering the levels at this time.

My FC (1ppm) and CYA (<30) are low, pH looks more like 8 right now. I want to address this as soon as possible, within the next few days. Planning to bring the CYA to about 60-70 and FC to 3-4ppm. The Pool Pilot DIG 220 is (my understanding) not really generating chlorine yet because of the low pool temp. On top of that, the digital display stopped working... so I have a new control board on the way!

Side question.... I understand pool stores recommending a lower FC amount as discussed on TFP....but what about the manual for the pool pilot? Is that just outdated information/thinking as well? I was happy to see it at least recommended a higher minimum CYA level than the pool store.

There is also some kind of algecide ball in the pool pump basket. I'm assuming that it contributing copper and I would like to remove it. Does that sound correct?

Thank you all! So happy I found TFP.
 

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I would raise your CYA to 40. No need to go higher until you get control of your pool.
Please only post test results from your kit, not the pool store. We trust your kit.
Chlorine is king. You need to get chlorine in your pool. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Take the ball out of the pump basket and dispose of it.
 
I would raise your CYA to 40. No need to go higher until you get control of your pool.
Please only post test results from your kit, not the pool store. We trust your kit.
Chlorine is king. You need to get chlorine in your pool. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Take the ball out of the pump basket and dispose of it.
Thank you for the recommendations.
The only reason I posted the pool store results was to indicate the CYA being crossed out when it’s clearly low (upon my own testing as well). My husband said there was a reason for it but can’t remember why. I didn’t want to screw something up if it was a legitimate reason.
 
CYA degrades over time, not surprised that CYA is low when you open the pool.
Raise it to 40. Use chlorine stabilizer. Put it in a sock , tie it off and hang it carrot on a stick style in front of a return.
Get some chlorine in the pool. Follow the FC/CYA recommendations.
 
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