What would be y’all’s thoughts on the happy pool foam base with the gorilla pad on top? Or just go with one or the other?
I would just pick one or the other.What would be y’all’s thoughts on the happy pool foam base with the gorilla pad on top? Or just go with one or the other?
Seeing all these valves online does it matter if they are CPVC and I'm using sch40 PVC? I thought you couldn't do that? Or you just need to use the Oaty All Purpose Cement or the Orange Stuff?3 way diverters are in the $50 range these days from Jandy / Pentair / Hayward and are worth every last penny because they are rebuildable. The irony is they usually last a generation and don't need the rebuilding that cheap ball valves do, which can't be rebuilt. It's a PITA to have to replumb those every few years.
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You've got the right idea. There's a correct glue/primer for the job but it is very much normal to use those valves with schedule 40 PVC.Seeing all these valves online does it matter if they are CPVC and I'm using sch40 PVC? I thought you couldn't do that? Or you just need to use the Oaty All Purpose Cement or the Orange Stuff?
Very well!You've got the right idea. There's a correct glue/primer for the job but it is very much normal to use those valves with schedule 40 PVC.
I literally hack Murphys this way. If i have a couple to spare, I'll never need to touch the first one, much less the spares.Better to have & not need than to need & not have right?
Copy that, you mean something like these I take it? Just the first thing that popped up on google ill stick with the $20 from depot lol.For the pool wall at the skimmer/return, I'd skip those unions. Use returns that accept threaded plugs to be winterized and blow the plumbing empty. Gizmos in the skimmers and threaded return plugs at the wall will keep the water out with no need to remove pipe.
Otherwise each leg needs 2 unions at the wall so you can remove a piece of pipe, and then you need to cap the part going into the ground. As is with only one union, you can break the seal of the pipe, but the pipe isn't going to budge.
Essentially if the plumbing after the union is threaded it's the same thing is it not? Thats what I was originally planning, I do like the Union ball valve idea better though so will be going with that!Single unions on those unmovable pipes served no purpose on your drawing.
While convenient in the short term, it's 2 leak locations and a cheap moving part down the road.I do like the Union ball valve idea better though so will be going with that!
YUP I actually just sent them my list lol I have used them for other projects before!For your plumbing supplies it might be worth checking out Audubon Plumbing Supply Co. They're able to deliver everything, and you can get 20' sticks of PVC to reduce the amount of couplers (and possible leak points.)