18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

3 way diverters are in the $50 range these days from Jandy / Pentair / Hayward and are worth every last penny because they are rebuildable. The irony is they usually last a generation and don't need the rebuilding that cheap ball valves do, which can't be rebuilt. It's a PITA to have to replumb those every few years.

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Seeing all these valves online does it matter if they are CPVC and I'm using sch40 PVC? I thought you couldn't do that? Or you just need to use the Oaty All Purpose Cement or the Orange Stuff?
 
Seeing all these valves online does it matter if they are CPVC and I'm using sch40 PVC? I thought you couldn't do that? Or you just need to use the Oaty All Purpose Cement or the Orange Stuff?
You've got the right idea. There's a correct glue/primer for the job but it is very much normal to use those valves with schedule 40 PVC.
 
Well, I have gotten my plumbing mapped out and a pretty accurate supply list, below is "as-is" in my drawings, I may wait to install the heater bypass when we actually get the heater hence the unions, solar or wood boiler, idc what y'all say on that! 🤣😂. Looking at it again I will probably add (2) 2-way valves before the Tees' that branch off from the pump intake/filter discharge lines, and I may add another 2-way at the return on the left to restrict that if I need to. The SWG will be after the filter and before the valve as well just realized I didn't add that Let me know y'alls thoughts as usual!
OH, and my "water feature" is probably just gonna be a homemade jawn for this year to help with cooling a bit, I'll get fancy with that at a later date lol.

Pump, Filter, and Pre-filter all have unions built into them, still unsure about the pre-filter as I said prior just something I may add due to keeping most of the trees. I know leaves won't get that far into the system but I'm sure some other 💩 will due to them still being there.

Plumbing – ALL 2”
  • (3) – 3-Way Valves
  • (2)* – 2-Way Valves
    • (5)* If adding the 2 before the tees' and 1 at the left return
  • (1) – Check Valve
  • (4) – Tee’s
  • (21) - 90⁰ elbow
  • (9) – Couplers
  • (20) – 10’ sch40 pvc pipe
    • Linear feet is estimated at 180' so 200' for extra
Aside from the valves, everything is available in sch40 pvc at depot so running to get more isn't a huge deal. Before anyone asks about the software it's chief architect home designer suite. I originally got it years ago to plan the addition on our house but like I said before that is on the backburner right now due to rates and some other variables, we'd rather enjoy our backyard more at the moment while our growing family is still young!


Pool layout 1.pngPool plumbing measurements.pngPlumbing Side View .pngPlumbing overhead view .png
 
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For the pool wall at the skimmer/return, I'd skip those unions. Use returns that accept threaded plugs to be winterized and blow the plumbing empty. Gizmos in the skimmers and threaded return plugs at the wall will keep the water out with no need to remove pipe.

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Otherwise each leg needs 2 unions at the wall so you can remove a piece of pipe, and then you need to cap the part going into the ground. As is with only one union, you can break the seal of the pipe, but the pipe isn't going to budge.

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I would also have a valve at each return and skimmer incase you need to cut one off & isolate the pool from the plumbing for some reason.
I like the ball valves that have a union built in. I got mine from Home Depot or lowes. I believe I had to order the last one.
I use my valves at the return to adjust my fountain or my pressure side cleaner flow rates.
My fountain is just a $20 deal from amazon that is screwed into the return but it works great in the dog days of summer to help cool the pool.
 

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For the pool wall at the skimmer/return, I'd skip those unions. Use returns that accept threaded plugs to be winterized and blow the plumbing empty. Gizmos in the skimmers and threaded return plugs at the wall will keep the water out with no need to remove pipe.

Otherwise each leg needs 2 unions at the wall so you can remove a piece of pipe, and then you need to cap the part going into the ground. As is with only one union, you can break the seal of the pipe, but the pipe isn't going to budge.
Copy that, you mean something like these I take it? Just the first thing that popped up on google ill stick with the $20 from depot lol.
ball valve 1.png
I'm not sure of the skimmers or returns that the pool store provides with this pool, but I can adapt with a slip-to-FPT fitting if they don't take a thread. Essentially you want the pipe between the ball valve and the skimmer/return to be thread fittings so you can remove after you slide down the BV is what you're saying?
ball valve diagram.png
 
Ball valves change the equation. They perform a function to stop flow if it's ever needed, and are a great idea.

Single unions on those unmovable pipes served no purpose on your drawing.
 
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I do like the Union ball valve idea better though so will be going with that!
While convenient in the short term, it's 2 leak locations and a cheap moving part down the road.

A jandy never lube / pentair diverter will stop the flow and last darn near forever.
 
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Picked my additional skimmer/return jet this morning along with ordering the extra return and skimmer slat from Niagara. Slightly more expensive than some online stores but I'd rather get everything for the pool itself at the same place. About $740 for the 2 slats with shipping (slats were $323 a piece) and the skimmer was 50 bucks. INYOpools had the return slat cheaper but the skimmer slat wasn't in stock and they don't have a date for restock (gave them a call), pool factory was $50 cheaper for each slat but like I said I rather would just get the pool stuff from 1 place. Return and skimmer both have 1 1/2" FPT coming into them so that's good to know 👍

Pool skimmer.jpg
 
For your plumbing supplies it might be worth checking out Audubon Plumbing Supply Co. They're able to deliver everything, and you can get 20' sticks of PVC to reduce the amount of couplers (and possible leak points.)
 

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