Pool equipment update

Begin at the pool lights. The pool lights should have individual conduits running to the junction box. You replace the pool lights with 12V.

You have 12V from the junction box to the light.

Put the transformers by the junction box with 120V from the panel to the transformer.
 
So does this effectively shift the "120V-to-12V transformer" point from by the Load Center to the above-ground junction box, and thus allow 120V / 240V in the conduit to co-exist? Additionally, with the Intermatic solution, I would not need another transformer. So the current 120V wiring into my Load Center would be untouched.

120V Load Center -> 120V into Intermatic -> 12V out of Intermatic -> 12V Pool Lights 2x + 12V Spa Lights x1.

Is that a correct understanding?
 
So does this effectively shift the "120V-to-12V transformer" point from by the Load Center to the above-ground junction box, and thus allow 120V / 240V in the conduit to co-exist? Additionally, with the Intermatic solution, I would not need another transformer. So the current 120V wiring into my Load Center would be untouched.

120V Load Center -> 120V into Intermatic -> 12V out of Intermatic -> 12V Pool Lights 2x + 12V Spa Lights x1.

Is that a correct understanding?
Yup.

You either use the Intermatic integrated junction box with transformer or wire standalone transformer next to the junction box.

The junction box location is where things change from 120V to 12V.

All the electrical at that location needs to follow NEC and be weatherproof.
 
That makes sense. I like the creative solution. I will have to take a picture and look a measurements of the above ground "junction box". The most ideal and cost-effective solution would be if I could put a 12V x 100W outdoor transformer inside my junction box.

When I have some time I'll take a picture and include some L x W x H measurements of the enclosure.
 
I had an issue during my build whereby the low voltage wiring passed thru the 120v compartment of my intellicenter which I thought was an issue and pointed out to my inspector. The inspector stated this was allowed by nec as the conductors used for the lv was thhn. Ultimately i disliked the potential future confusion and rewired such that the lv did not pass thru the load center but - This is allowed per NEC 300.3 (C) Conductors of Different Systems.
(1) 1000 Volts, Nominal, or Less. Conductors of ac and dc
circuits, rated 1000 volts, nominal, or less, shall be permitted to
occupy the same equipment wiring enclosure, cable, or raceway.
All conductors shall have an insulation rating equal to at least
the maximum circuit voltage applied to any conductor within
the enclosure, cable, or raceway.


Also note that the lv system transformer as well as swg transformer (and their associated lv wires) share the load center.
 
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So here is an update with pictures of the "junction box". The box's inside measurements are: 7.5" W x 7.5" H x 3.5"D. I've further confirmed this is the point at which the 240V from the main breaker gets "co-mingled" with the 120V from the lights and into a single conduit headed to the Load Center.

I'm not sure if I can get one (or ideally two) 100W x 12V transformers inside this enclosure and shift the voltage transformation to allow for 12V lights. If I could, then 12V becomes a real option.

From the looks of it, I think I have 10 AWG running for my 240V and 12 AWG for everything else. Given that the pool was build in the late 1990's or early 2000s, what are the chances that 12 gauge wire was NOT shielded with 600V insulation? I might need to do some more investigating to see if i can find any markings on the wire jacket to tell me. But if it is 600V insulation, then per @Ahultin's post above it would seem that I could mix 12V and 240V in the same conduit and install transformer down by my Load Center.

This raises another question, can the relays in Load Center switch both 12V and 120V? If I can use my existing relays for 12V, then I could use the relay to switch 12V instead of 120V and utilize the transformer in a different manner to allow Spa lights and Pool lights to operate Independently.
 

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I am lookin to replace four (4) drain covers in my pool / spa. They all appear to be the exact same size, shape, screw pattern, and color.
  • Size: 7-1/2” wide x 1-1/4” high
  • Shape: Round
  • Screw Pattern: Two (2) opposite each other
  • Color: Dark Grey
I would, ideally, like to find something that is a drop-in replacement that can utilize the same screw holes and be a perfect fit. What options, if any, do you have that would be suitable replacements?
 

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Any recommendations for replacement drain covers that would to replace these?
What's wrong with them? What do you want in a drain cover?
What is the diameter? They could be Afras 7 3/8" covers. Possibly 8" Waterway. Since the covers and the mounting ring that is in the plaster come as a unit, unless you get a retro-fit cover, you usually have to stick with the same brand.
Examples:
 
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I'm draining the pool for the first time in 20 years as part of water chemistry issue, to much cyanuric acid, and some equipment plumbing issues. My pool contractors suggested I replace all the drain covers while the pool is drained. So I thought, I'd try to have drain covers on hand for replacement. I have four covers total, which all look identical. Two in my spa floor (pictured), one on my pool floor and one on pool wall.
 
I'm trying to figure out which breaker to order for a new IntelliFlo3 3HP pump. It seems that Q220GF may be the newest model and the others have been end-of-lifed / discontinued?
 

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Thanks @JamesW. However, I'm still curious what the difference is between the variants. When I look online at Siemens.com, it says the QF220AP has been discontinued and replaced by Q220GF.
 
A "10,000 A IR" indicates a circuit breaker with a maximum interrupting capacity of 10,000 amps, while a "22,000 A IR" signifies a breaker that can handle a maximum fault current of 22,000 amps; meaning the 22,000 A IR breaker is capable of safely interrupting a much higher short circuit current than the 10,000 A IR breaker.

The rating which defines the capacity of a protective device to maintain its integrity when reacting to fault currents is termed its “interrupting rating”. The interrupting rating of most branch-circuit, molded case, circuit breakers typically used in residential service entrance panels is 10,000A.

1738769365428.png


 
HACR and SWD are markings on circuit breakers that indicate their intended use. HACR stands for Heating, Air Conditioning, and Refrigeration, while SWD stands for Switch Duty.


Product
Article Number (Market Facing Number) Q220GF | US2:Q220GF
Product Description BRKR QPFB GFCI 5mA 2P 240V 20A 10KA
Product family Ordering Data Overview
Product Lifecycle (PLM) PM300:Active Product

BRKR QPFB GFCI 5mA 2P 240V 20A 10KA
Q220GF | US2:Q220GF
 
@JamesW from your latest post, am I correct to understand that the Q220GF would be fine to use for :
  • IntelliFlo3 (pool / spa filter pump)
  • WhisperFlo (water fall dedicated pump)
  • Puri Tech UniBoost (cleaner booster pump)
I have three (3) x double-pole 20amp non-GFCI breakers currently, but as part of equipment upgrade, I plan to clean-up my electrical wiring and breakers for modern standards and safety.
 
1738775169981.png

NEW AND IMPROVED.

2-Pole Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI).

usa.siemens.com/gfci

With the extension of the National Electrical Code 2020 to protect more areas of the home, Siemens has expanded our GFCI product line, continuing to provide complete home safety for our customers.

Siemens GFCI circuit breakers are UL and cUL listed and offers Class A 5mA Personnel Protection or a 30mA Equipment Protection
Circuit Breaker.

The new GFCI 2pole breakers offer a smaller footprint, a more robust design, a Plug-On Neutral design and can go up to 65kA
interrupting rating. The initial launch will include breakers up to 30A and the remaining (35-60A) will release Summer 2025.

1738771324087.png

 

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