Does the installer submit the warranty registration? or does I as the home owner? or both of us?
Pool equipment update
- Thread starter Pesh
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You do it all online and download invoices for the equipment and installation.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pentair claims their new designed MasterTemp is more rodent proof. If you compare vintages see less vents on the panels of the current model.
Unless your warranty claim is for defective panels you should be fine. External rat proofing does not touch any internal parts.
@ajw22 that aligns with my thinking and seems rationale. However, it always seems that companies look for any reason to deny warranty claims to save them $s.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If they want to look for ways to deny warranty claims they will find it. That should not prevent you from installing and protecting your investment the best you can.
Rodent damage is more likely than a warranty claim. And rodent damage is not covered by warranty.
Pentair seems to be fair in warranty claims. They replaced a heat exchanger for me. It helps when you have a warranty claim if you buy the equipment and have it installed by an authorized dealer. Then there are no questions as to the source of the equipment or the qualifications of the installer. And the dealer you bought it from handles the warranty claim.
If you try and do it on your own and meet Pentair’s warranty then it will be up to you to deal with their warranty questions.
In preparation for updating some and moving around other equipment, I'm wanting to ensure I have all the appropriate supplies.
I currently have a Pentair IntelliFlo VS (main pool / spa pump), PentairWhisperFlo (waterfall pump) and Puri Tech UniBoost (cleaner pump). These pumps are all 240V and have been installed for years. The Pentair's for 15-ish and UniBoost for 2-to-3. All the power wires are run in conduit back to an IntelliCenter for automation. The IntelliFlo is the only pump that has control wires. The conduit has seen better days and needs to be replaced. The control wire is just laying loose.
I will be ordering a new IntelliFlo 3 for the main pool/spa filter pump, moving the old IntelliFlo to be my waterfall pump, and keeping UniBoost for cleaner pump. I'll either sell or keep WhisperFlo in storage for when IntelliFlo waterfall pump dies.
I'm looking for guidance on best practices. Questions that come to my mind are:
I currently have a Pentair IntelliFlo VS (main pool / spa pump), PentairWhisperFlo (waterfall pump) and Puri Tech UniBoost (cleaner pump). These pumps are all 240V and have been installed for years. The Pentair's for 15-ish and UniBoost for 2-to-3. All the power wires are run in conduit back to an IntelliCenter for automation. The IntelliFlo is the only pump that has control wires. The conduit has seen better days and needs to be replaced. The control wire is just laying loose.
I will be ordering a new IntelliFlo 3 for the main pool/spa filter pump, moving the old IntelliFlo to be my waterfall pump, and keeping UniBoost for cleaner pump. I'll either sell or keep WhisperFlo in storage for when IntelliFlo waterfall pump dies.
I'm looking for guidance on best practices. Questions that come to my mind are:
- Conduit
- Type (metal? water tight? other?)
- Sizing (1/2", 3/4", other)?
- Fittings?
- Power Wires
- Gauge? (12? 14? other? same for all three pumps?)
- Color coding? (green for ground, etc.)
- Control Wires (RS-485)
- Amazon / HomeDepot Recommendation?
- Gauge (18? 20? 22? 24? other?)?
- Best way to run and secure wire (ziptie to outside of conduit running power)?
- Relay Wires
- Gauge (12? 14? other?)
- same as power wire?
- Color coding (black? white? red? other? different for each pump?)
- IntelliCenter Wiring
- Wire labeling?
- Wire routing and securing?
- Other tips / guidance?
Attachments
In preparation for updating some and moving around other equipment, I'm wanting to ensure I have all the appropriate supplies.
I currently have a Pentair MasterTemp 400 heater. The heater is 240V and has been installed for years. The power wires are run in conduit back to an IntelliCenter for automation. The heater has control wires. The conduit has seen better days and needs to be replaced. The control wire is just laying loose. I will be ordering a new Pentair MasterTemp 400.
I'm looking for guidance on best practices. Questions that come to my mind are:
I currently have a Pentair MasterTemp 400 heater. The heater is 240V and has been installed for years. The power wires are run in conduit back to an IntelliCenter for automation. The heater has control wires. The conduit has seen better days and needs to be replaced. The control wire is just laying loose. I will be ordering a new Pentair MasterTemp 400.
I'm looking for guidance on best practices. Questions that come to my mind are:
- Conduit
- Type (metal? water tight? other?)
- Sizing (1/2", 3/4", other)?
- Fittings?
- Power Wires
- Gauge? (12? 14? other?)
- Color coding? (green for ground, etc.)
- Control Wires (RS-485)
- Amazon / HomeDepot Recommendation?
- Gauge (18? 20? 22? 24? other?)?
- Best way to run and secure wire (ziptie to outside of conduit running power)?
- Relay Wires
- Gauge (12? 14? other?)
- same as power wire?
- Color coding (black? white? red? other?)
- IntelliCenter Wiring
- Wire labeling?
- Wire routing and securing?
- Other tips / guidance?
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Follow the Installation Manuals.
Follow the NEC.
Use 12 AWG solid copper wire with 20 Amp CBs and 14 gauge AWG solid copper wire with 15 Amp CBs.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
I hate zip tying together a bundle of wires. When you need to trace a wire or replace it cutting out the zip ties is a PITA. I use velcro ties or split tube wire loom to organize cables.
Follow the NEC.
Use 12 AWG solid copper wire with 20 Amp CBs and 14 gauge AWG solid copper wire with 15 Amp CBs.
Electrical GFCI - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Electrical Bonding - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I hate zip tying together a bundle of wires. When you need to trace a wire or replace it cutting out the zip ties is a PITA. I use velcro ties or split tube wire loom to organize cables.
Last edited:
@ajw22 when I looked at Pentair User / Install Manual online, the only wiring guidance I recall seeing was 8AWG for bonding wire. I might have missed it, but it was odd that the manual was silent on power wires.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You learn more by reading then searching.
When reading you learn things you did not know you needed to search for.
I have 2 x IntelliBrite 5G 120V Pool Lights and 1 x IntelliBrite 5G 120V Spa Lights that are 10+ years old and starting to fail. As I consider replacing them, I am thinking of switching to 12V lighting. My pool/spa lighting is controlled by IntelliCenter and wired into a Load Center (see picture).
I'm not sure if the transition from 120V to 12V makes sense or is even possible. My current wiring has all 120V wiring for lights in the same conduit as the main power wiring (240V) for the Load Center. Consequently, if I switch to 12V, I would be co-mingling low and high voltage in the same conduit. I assume this is a no-no and makes my 12V conversion plan a non-starter.
It is worth noting, that I have NO ability to separate the lighting wiring from the load center power wiring. All the conduit is buried with NO access or ability to run new conduit for separation.
In the event that I'm wrong or there is another creative solution, this raises some other questions. But, I will wait to pose those questions if there is a way to move forward with 12V.
I'm not sure if the transition from 120V to 12V makes sense or is even possible. My current wiring has all 120V wiring for lights in the same conduit as the main power wiring (240V) for the Load Center. Consequently, if I switch to 12V, I would be co-mingling low and high voltage in the same conduit. I assume this is a no-no and makes my 12V conversion plan a non-starter.
It is worth noting, that I have NO ability to separate the lighting wiring from the load center power wiring. All the conduit is buried with NO access or ability to run new conduit for separation.
In the event that I'm wrong or there is another creative solution, this raises some other questions. But, I will wait to pose those questions if there is a way to move forward with 12V.
Attachments
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
NEC does not allow mixing of high voltage and low voltage wiring. They need to be in separate conduits.
Does your pool light wires connect at a pool light junction box?
Does your pool light wires connect at a pool light junction box?
Yes, there is a junction box, however, the box is above the ground / pool water level. From the junction box there are a set of wires that then run underground, under the pool / spa thru conduit and to the equipment / IntelliCenter Load Center which is located below the bottom of the pool. Where / how the light wires and Load Center Power wires merge is unbeknownst to me.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,153
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Junction box with transformer. Use existing high voltage wiring to the junction box.
Low voltage pool light wires should be in separate conduits into the junction box.
I had a Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3 that has been upgraded to an IntelliCenter with an upgrade kit. The original IntelliTouch was installed in a Load Center (520136). The Load Center was reused as part of the upgrade.
I’m a bit embarrassed to share the wiring picture, because it’s a complete mess with no labeling.
As you can see I have 3 x 20A double-pole breakers and 1 x 15A single-pole breaker. I don’t recall exactly what equipment maps to what breaker. However, here are the pieces of equipment that I have:
240V
I will be switching out the 3 x 20A double pole breakers with either the Siemens GFCI Breaker (QF220AP) equivalent. I am also planning to replace the 1 x 20A single-pole breaker with a Siemens GFCI Breaker (QF120AP).
It appears that I have room for one more single-pole breaker
A few questions:
I’m a bit embarrassed to share the wiring picture, because it’s a complete mess with no labeling.
As you can see I have 3 x 20A double-pole breakers and 1 x 15A single-pole breaker. I don’t recall exactly what equipment maps to what breaker. However, here are the pieces of equipment that I have:
240V
- IntelliFlo VS
- WhisperFlo
- Pool Cleaner Booster Pump
- MasterTemp 400 Heater
- Air Supply Silencer Spa Blower
- 2 x Pool IntelliBrite + 1 x Spa IntelliBrite 120V Lights
- Outdoor Light Fixture
- GFCI Outlet
I will be switching out the 3 x 20A double pole breakers with either the Siemens GFCI Breaker (QF220AP) equivalent. I am also planning to replace the 1 x 20A single-pole breaker with a Siemens GFCI Breaker (QF120AP).
It appears that I have room for one more single-pole breaker
A few questions:
- Will the Siemens single-pole GCFI breaker fit in the same slot as the current non-GFCI breaker? The Siemens breaker looks wider, so I’m not sure.
- What is the best pairing of equipment that share a breaker?
- Should I add another single pole breaker. If so, what should I put on it?
