New Fiberglass Pool owner

CSI is a complex calculation with a lot of factors. Temperature, pH, TA, CH, Salt among others. You can play what-if games in Pool Math with the result by changing one or more items ("What if my temp went from 50 to 85?",or "What if my CH was raised to 300?", etc).

Is the chart you are using like the one attached? Note that the Salt Water section has a broader range than the one above that is without. This just to reflect the consistency a SWCG provides when it is running. If it is not running, just keep your CL at the top of the range for your level of CYA, which is the same for both sections.
CYA recommended levels for salt pools are higher, see this thread for "why": Why such high CYA recommendations for saltwater pools?
But your level of 40 is not critical at this time of year (less CL loss due to sunlight), so you can postpone building up the CYA if you want, until warmer weather.

Finally - TA is slow to drop. As in very slow. Won't happen in a day or two. A high TA, such as yours, will raise the pH. Aeration also raises the pH (with no effect on TA). Adding acid to drop the pH will also drop the TA a little bit. Some try to accelerate the process by dropping pH to 7.2, letting it rise to 8.0, and hitting it again. But even that is a once a day test and add thing. Eventually, when the TA gets in the lower numbers (<70 ish) the pool will begin to need less and less acid. If you run the aeration a lot, you may eventually need to build up TA a little. But for now, best is to manage pH only, and only occasionally check TA.

Note the interplay with CSI I talked about before! Depending on all the other chemistry in that calculation, you may elect to have your own "custom" TA level to keep CSI in range...
 
Now that your initial items have been discussed, the thread here is getting a bit long - which makes it hard for us to review what your current pool is like, and what the current test levels are. So help us out a bit:

1. Edit your user signature. Go to "Settings" over on the left here, and then "Signature". Describe your pool (gallons, type of construction, any special features like a spa or water attractions) and then list the make and model of all your equipment - pump, filter, heater, SWCG, etc. Finally which test kit you are using. See the replies above (or mine below) about what others list. Avoids us having to hunt for the info, or asking you over and over.

2. Link Pool Math to your user account here. That will allow us to see all your saved chem levels, just by clicking on your username here in a post. And you don't have to deal with attaching screen shots. (found under the "gear" icon for Pool Setup, way down at the bottom).

3. Pay the $8 per year fee for Pool Math Premium - it allows you to save all the logs of what you've done in the past, and we can see those too. It's a really, really cheap investment! Then you too can track over time how things are progressing.
Hi! Thanks for the response! I already have the app and paid for it, but have no idea how to link it. Any ideas? I am not finding those instructions. Also, my signature has the details, but I will take a look again to see what additional info I can add. I bought the test kit from TF.
 
CSI is a complex calculation with a lot of factors. Temperature, pH, TA, CH, Salt among others. You can play what-if games in Pool Math with the result by changing one or more items ("What if my temp went from 50 to 85?",or "What if my CH was raised to 300?", etc).

Is the chart you are using like the one attached? Note that the Salt Water section has a broader range than the one above that is without. This just to reflect the consistency a SWCG provides when it is running. If it is not running, just keep your CL at the top of the range for your level of CYA, which is the same for both sections.
CYA recommended levels for salt pools are higher, see this thread for "why": Why such high CYA recommendations for saltwater pools?
But your level of 40 is not critical at this time of year (less CL loss due to sunlight), so you can postpone building up the CYA if you want, until warmer weather.

Finally - TA is slow to drop. As in very slow. Won't happen in a day or two. A high TA, such as yours, will raise the pH. Aeration also raises the pH (with no effect on TA). Adding acid to drop the pH will also drop the TA a little bit. Some try to accelerate the process by dropping pH to 7.2, letting it rise to 8.0, and hitting it again. But even that is a once a day test and add thing. Eventually, when the TA gets in the lower numbers (<70 ish) the pool will begin to need less and less acid. If you run the aeration a lot, you may eventually need to build up TA a little. But for now, best is to manage pH only, and only occasionally check TA.

Note the interplay with CSI I talked about before! Depending on all the other chemistry in that calculation, you may elect to have your own "custom" TA level to keep CSI in range...
Thank you so much for this insight. Looks like based off these tips, I can disregard the TA at this time and maybe leave the ph alone or maybe add another cup to drop it to 7.2 to see if that helps? I am worried the TA will never be at the right level to help with the severe scaling issue I have from not being completely moved into the house so I was not able to maintain the saltwater pool in the beginning. Do you think having the pH at 7.2 may help with scaling or is 7.5 fine? I sure hope this issue will resolve on its own that my FC and pH are at better levels.

Thank you so much for your insight! I truly appreciate it!
 
no idea how to link it. Any ideas?
Use the same login and password as TFP, then go to the gear in the upper right, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing with TFP.

Also turn on track salt, temperature and CSI.

Any pH in the 7s is fine.
Here is how to lower TA.

Your CSI is likely high.

Causing the Scale.
 
Use the same login and password as TFP, then go to the gear in the upper right, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing with TFP.

Also turn on track salt, temperature and CSI.

Any pH in the 7s is fine.
Here is how to lower TA.

Your CSI is likely high.

Causing the Scale.
This is fantastic! I appreciate all these links and now realize that I am not doing anything wrong with the aeration/ acid; I just need to keep at it, lowering the pH a bit more. Knowing it takes time and is not an overnight fix makes me feel better! Thank you!
 
When you get your TA down to 60-80...don't lower pH down to 7.2/7.4 anymore, this will continue to lower your TA Your pH will likely be stable at 7.8-8.0 with a TA of 60-80, or require minor additions to keep it 7.8-8.0. TA below 50 should be avoided as you can crash your pH.
 
When you get your TA down to 60-80...don't lower pH down to 7.2/7.4 anymore, this will continue to lower your TA Your pH will likely be stable at 7.8-8.0 with a TA of 60-80, or require minor additions to keep it 7.8-8.0. TA below 50 should be avoided as you can crash your pH.
Perfect! Will do! Let's hope I can get the TA down! What a battle! 😩😅. Thank you again!
 
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Perfect! Will do! Let's hope I can get the TA down! What a battle! 😩😅. Thank you again!
Hi again! I was able to lower my TA to 100 today, but wanted to get my pH to 7.0 vs 7.2, but in doing so, it brought my TA back to 120 ppm. I am wondering if I am aerating for too long. How long should I aerate each time after pouring in the MA? Also I am having a hard time getting it to lower from 7.2 pH for some reason. I will trying pouring more MA tomorrow. Thank you as always!
 
Hi again!

Any idea why it is so difficult to keep pH levels consistent? It seems like every few days I need to add more acid to lower the pH although TA seems stable as well as chlorine levels. Blows my mind! Thanks in advance!
 
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