New Fiberglass Pool owner

how do I know how much liquid chlorine to use based off these results?
You either chlorinate with your SWG, or chlorinate with LC.

You now know how to calculate SWG % output and pump run time...

Change this (below) to liquid chlorine... and enter the % concentration, and it will calculate amount.

1736912362577.png
 
You either chlorinate with your SWG, or chlorinate with LC.

You now know how to calculate SWG % output and pump run time...

Change this (below) to liquid chlorine... and enter the % concentration, and it will calculate amount.

View attachment 624607
Ah! Thank you! I imagine in the winter I have to use liquid chlorine at least that is what Leslie's shared as they said the salt does nothing in cooler temps (hopefully that is something they shared correctly). Also I read the link you shared about aeration, but if I do not have anything that will help make the small bubbles, what do you recommend- is that the only way to help with the TA?
 
Ah! Thank you! I imagine in the winter I have to use liquid chlorine at least that is what Leslie's shared as they said the salt does nothing in cooler temps (hopefully that is something they shared correctly). Also I read the link you shared about aeration, but if I do not have anything that will help make the small bubbles, what do you recommend- is that the only way to help with the TA?
Somewhere between 50 degrees and 60 degrees, your SWG will stop creating chlorine.

Read through this link if you have high TA fill water...

 
  • Like
Reactions: FiberGlassTx24
Somewhere between 50 degrees and 60 degrees, your SWG will stop creating chlorine.

Read through this link if you have high TA fill water...

Thank you for confirming!

Also I'll try to see if we can get the waterfall feature on since I do not have an aeration tool. I wish I was handy like you! :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored
One last question- I am assuming I would handle pouring the liquid chlorine in increments similar to muriatic acid, correct ? Also I'm assuming I should do muriatic acid on one day and liquid chlorine on a different day in order to not effect the levels? Thanks again!
 
Add LC while the pump is running. Retest after 5-10 minutes. Once FC level is where you need it to be add MA and retest after 30 min.

There’s no need to wait for a day.
 
One last question- I am assuming I would handle pouring the liquid chlorine in increments similar to muriatic acid, correct ? Also I'm assuming I should do muriatic acid on one day and liquid chlorine on a different day in order to not effect the levels? Thanks again!
Pour your whole dose of LC at one time. Pour it in a thin stream in front of a return and brush floor underneath when you are done.

Wait 10 minutes between muriatic acid and chlorine additions in the same day.

The point behind the increments of .4 for pH adjustment with Muriatic is in the note below in pool math....

1736963236420.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: FiberGlassTx24
For either muriatic acid or bleach, hold the bottle real low, possibly even submerging it a little to all but eliminate splashing. I poured waist high like a clown for years too long.
 
Pour your whole dose of LC at one time. Pour it in a thin stream in front of a return and brush floor underneath when you are done.

Wait 10 minutes between muriatic acid and chlorine additions in the same day.

The point behind the increments of .4 for pH adjustment with Muriatic is in the note below in pool math....

View attachment 624639
That is very helpful- especially about brushing the floor! Thank you again for all of the tips! Much appreciated!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
If you have found value, you might consider becoming a supporter. We are non-profit and all volunteers. Donations keep the lights on.

 
  • Like
Reactions: FiberGlassTx24
What a great tip! Thank you so much! 😊
If you have found value, you might consider becoming a supporter. We are non-profit and all volunteers. Donations keep the lights on.

Good to know! Will do- thank you!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored
A quick circle back about some secondary things brought up in this thread -
By now, you likely have a sense for the relationship between CYA and CL. Withing limits, CYA helps slow the daily loss by holding CL in reserve - but our tests only track the total CL, hence the higher targets called for as CYA increases, in order to maintain enough active CL.

Leslie's was not totally wrong, as tablets can be used to replace CL when the SWCG is not running. But, the tablets contain stabilizer (CYA) too, so the more you use, the more you need - until the need gets to an unsustainable level. Tablets dissolve - and the rate is very temperature dependent. So it can be really hard to determine any accurate dosing amount. It may take a couple of days in the summer, or a couple of weeks in the winter. Best one can do is test daily and add/subtract the number of tablets and chase the target blindly (I know, as a former 30 yr tablet guy). And test CYA weekly, to make sure it is not building to impossible levels. The only way to reduce CYA is to drain the pool.

Hence the strong preference here for: 1) Add stabilizer separately to get to a target level. Then add no more. And: 2) Use only liquid, since it only adds CL and nothing else. Of course, in warmer weather, no liquid needed normally at all, since you have a SWCG.

The one time the tablets may be useful - when leaving the pool unattended for a longish time. Each of us has our own comfort level about how long we want to leave things operating without any attention. Filters or skimmers could clog. Power outages could happen. Etc. But if you will be gone for 2 weeks, which might be 10 days longer than your comfort level - one can build up the CL using liquid to SLAM level, turn it all off, and then toss a floater or two with tablets in for kind of timed release. There still may be a chance you return to something brewing, or it may be just fine (except for leaves/worms on the bottom!). But you did what you could to forestall problems. So if your tablet supply is small, you may want to hang on to them for this. They don't go bad as long as well protected from moisture.

Just don't use tablets for normal chlorinating, unless you are deliberately trying to build up CYA slowly.
 
A quick circle back about some secondary things brought up in this thread -
By now, you likely have a sense for the relationship between CYA and CL. Withing limits, CYA helps slow the daily loss by holding CL in reserve - but our tests only track the total CL, hence the higher targets called for as CYA increases, in order to maintain enough active CL.

Leslie's was not totally wrong, as tablets can be used to replace CL when the SWCG is not running. But, the tablets contain stabilizer (CYA) too, so the more you use, the more you need - until the need gets to an unsustainable level. Tablets dissolve - and the rate is very temperature dependent. So it can be really hard to determine any accurate dosing amount. It may take a couple of days in the summer, or a couple of weeks in the winter. Best one can do is test daily and add/subtract the number of tablets and chase the target blindly (I know, as a former 30 yr tablet guy). And test CYA weekly, to make sure it is not building to impossible levels. The only way to reduce CYA is to drain the pool.

Hence the strong preference here for: 1) Add stabilizer separately to get to a target level. Then add no more. And: 2) Use only liquid, since it only adds CL and nothing else. Of course, in warmer weather, no liquid needed normally at all, since you have a SWCG.

The one time the tablets may be useful - when leaving the pool unattended for a longish time. Each of us has our own comfort level about how long we want to leave things operating without any attention. Filters or skimmers could clog. Power outages could happen. Etc. But if you will be gone for 2 weeks, which might be 10 days longer than your comfort level - one can build up the CL using liquid to SLAM level, turn it all off, and then toss a floater or two with tablets in for kind of timed release. There still may be a chance you return to something brewing, or it may be just fine (except for leaves/worms on the bottom!). But you did what you could to forestall problems. So if your tablet supply is small, you may want to hang on to them for this. They don't go bad as long as well protected from moisture.

Just don't use tablets for normal chlorinating, unless you are deliberately trying to build up CYA slowly.
Thank you very much! Just saw this and toke note of the details! Truly appreciate this insight. I sure wish you guys could train the local pool stores! :)
 
Thank you very much! Just saw this and toke note of the details! Truly appreciate this insight. I sure wish you guys could train the local pool stores! :)
They don't want to be trained. My PERSONAL opinion is that is it one big grift. Free testing and the number of products they sell that is how they make a profit.

If they sold liquid chlorine, CYA, Salt and Calcium, and follow TFP, they would be out of business.
 
They don't want to be trained. My PERSONAL opinion is that is it one big grift. Free testing and the number of products they sell that is how they make a profit.

If they sold liquid chlorine, CYA, Salt and Calcium, and follow TFP, they would be out of business.
That is such a good point! They had me fooled! So glad I found you all!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
That is such a good point! They had me fooled! So glad I found you all!
You are not alone…

 
I have finally been able to get my ph levels down to 7.5, but TA is still high- 150 ppm. However, when I use the app, it shows my CSI is as at a good level! Attaching pics here. Does that make any sense? Looks like I still need to add more MA to lower pH. FC is at 3.5, which I thought needs to be higher according to the chart in the booklet that comes with the kit (although I was looking at the non-saltwater column since this time of year salt doesn't have an effect on the water), but maybe I should still look at the saltwater column on the chart? Looks like I need to buy a liquid stabilizer as well for the CYA, as it mentions the number needs to be increased. Hope I am doing this right. Also I have found a way to aerate with some pipes that my handy father helped me with where the water feature will go one day. I aerated all afternoon, but TA is still high it seems. Thanks again! Truly appreciate any insight or feedback.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9345.jpeg
    IMG_9345.jpeg
    88.3 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9346.png
    IMG_9346.png
    214 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9347.jpeg
    IMG_9347.jpeg
    279.4 KB · Views: 3
Now that your initial items have been discussed, the thread here is getting a bit long - which makes it hard for us to review what your current pool is like, and what the current test levels are. So help us out a bit:

1. Edit your user signature. Go to "Settings" over on the left here, and then "Signature". Describe your pool (gallons, type of construction, any special features like a spa or water attractions) and then list the make and model of all your equipment - pump, filter, heater, SWCG, etc. Finally which test kit you are using. See the replies above (or mine below) about what others list. Avoids us having to hunt for the info, or asking you over and over.

2. Link Pool Math to your user account here. That will allow us to see all your saved chem levels, just by clicking on your username here in a post. And you don't have to deal with attaching screen shots. (found under the "gear" icon for Pool Setup, way down at the bottom).

3. Pay the $8 per year fee for Pool Math Premium - it allows you to save all the logs of what you've done in the past, and we can see those too. It's a really, really cheap investment! Then you too can track over time how things are progressing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.