New Fiberglass Pool owner

[FiberGlassTx24]

Hi there! Curious on your thoughts as I have talked to a pool boy and Leslie's regarding our situation. We had our pool installed before moving in (builder had promised we would be moved in about the same time, but unfortunately this was not the case). With that being said, the pool sat there for about two months without us being able to maintain it weekly. We have noticed calcium buildup (we filled it with well water). Unfortunately, due to the time of year, the scaling products that were recommended to me won't help until the water temps increase. My fear is, that the scaling will never come out and we will need to drain the water and have it professionally cleaned which scares me since it is fiberglass. Do you feel that once the temps rise and I can use scaling products, it will be easy to remove from the pool walls? Also is there a product you recommend to help? Looks like I will have a lot of scrubbing to do this summer! . In the meantime I have been working on getting our ph levels balanced. Attaching a pic as well! Thanks in advance!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! There are a few issues we should address before you attempt any treatments on the shell or water itself. So let's go over those first:
- As responsible pool owners, we start all evaluations with accurate water test results. If you are relying on the local pool store or test strips, walk away. They aren't worth your time, neither is their advice. It is imperative that you test your water with your own test kit - either a TF-100/Pro Series kit or a Taylor K-2006C. IMO, the TF-Series are the best value, but you need one of those. With one of those kits, you can be assured to have accurate/reliable results. That must be step #1.
- Scale? Maybe. We can help go over some DIY tests you can try to confirm. But I wouldn't rush down that path just yet until you have a proper test kit. When I had some gelcoat issues, I tried several scale products and as expected, I found them to be a waste of time and $$$.
- Update your signature. That's going to be very important as the replies aren't based just on the pool shell, but also the equipment and how you chlorinate. When you update your signature, be sure to include that you are on a well.

If you already have one of those test kits, please post a full set of results. If not, we'll be anxiously awaiting to see them. It's that important to your time and your investment.

I'll post some additional links for you yo help. We'll be happy to coach through the entire process.

 

[Texas Splash]

Test Kits

tftestkits.net

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Also consider using the PoolMath APP. It's a great tool.

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Welcome to TFP! There are a few issues we should address before you attempt any treatments on the shell or water itself. So let's go over those first:
- As responsible pool owners, we start all evaluations with accurate water test results. If you are relying on the local pool store or test strips, walk away. They aren't worth your time, neither is their advice. It is imperative that you test your water with your own test kit - either a TF-100/Pro Series kit or a Taylor K-2006C. IMO, the TF-Series are the best value, but you need one of those. With one of those kits, you can be assured to have accurate/reliable results. That must be step #1.
- Scale? Maybe. We can help go over some DIY tests you can try to confirm. But I wouldn't rush down that path just yet until you have a proper test kit. When I had some gelcoat issues, I tried several scale products and as expected, I found them to be a waste of time and $$$.
- Update your signature. That's going to be very important as the replies aren't based just on the pool shell, but also the equipment and how you chlorinate. When you update your signature, be sure to include that you are on a well.

If you already have one of those test kits, please post a full set of results. If not, we'll be anxiously awaiting to see them. It's that important to your time and your investment.

I'll post some additional links for you yo help. We'll be happy to coach through the entire process.

Thank you so much! I truly appreciate your help and tips! I will purchase one of those test kits asap as the digital one I had stopped working so this is good timing! I will hopefully revert back soon! Fingers crossed the fiberglass shell is not permanently damaged! Thanks again!

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Hi Texas Splash! I received my test kit and the below is what the results are. I am struggling it seems with TA and pH. I have been adding 1 cup of muriatic acid for weeks now per Leslie Pool's guidance, but apparently I need much more? Funny as about two weeks ago, their test shared that my TA was at 140 and pH at 7.9, but now my pH is over 8 again! Thx in advance!

CI .5

Br 1

pH 8.2+

TA 140 ppm

CH 300 ppm

 

[PoolStored]

Your #1 priority should be FC (we call free chlorine FC, not Cl). You need to dose your pool with liquid chlorine to get that FC up. You should always follow this...LINK-->FC/CYA Levels

You did not report your CYA. What is your CYA?

PH tends to naturally rise. Low pH and high TA causes pH to rise faster.
Any pH in the 7s, even up to 8 is fine. No need to raise pH...it will rise on its own.
When your TA is >80, when pH gets to 8, lower your pH to 7.4-7.6 with muriatic acid. This will lower pH and lower TA. pH will rise again naturally, without raising TA.
When TA gets to 80, STOP lowering to 7.4-7.6 and only lower to 7.8. With a TA of 60-80, your pH should be fairly stable around 7.8-8.

I would stop using leslie's guidance and download and use Pool Math. Link-->PoolMath

Pool math will calculate how much muriatic acid to use to lower pH. NOTE: you should only lower pH in .4 increments. So if you need to lower pH by .8, lower by .4, wait 30 minutes with pump running and test again. Then make the second addition to lower the remaining pH.

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Thank you for the insight! I had no idea the FC was my main priority/ especially due to the scaling issue I'm having with such a new fiberglass pool. I will test that during the day when the sun is out and report back. Leslie had me buy chlorine tabs, but I'm reading that apparently that is not a good idea? Can you share why liquid chlorine is better? Will it also help with my build up along the walls? I am really worried it won't go away. With the water temps, I'm not able to try any other chemicals to help dissolve the buildup. Not sure if you were able to see the first picture/ on the original post. Thank you!

 

[PoolStored]

Chlorine is ALWAYS king. Everything else is a longer term issue (waiting a day isn't going to cause a problem)...not having enough chlorine can become an issue quickly.

Did you get pool math? Get the subscription for $8 a YEAR. Enable "Track CC", "track Temperature," "Track CSI" and Enable sharing with TFP.

We can fix scaling, but not in a day. Your CSI is likely above 0. We can make some adjustments, get your CSI down, and the scale can correct itself.

I would avoid tabs. Why did they sell you tabs? You have a SWG...no? Liquid chlorine is better, but will not help the buildup. Lowering CSI will help.

Get pool math. Configure it. Enable sharing, and Post a full set of results to pool math and let us know when its in there and we'll review your #s and hatch a plan!

Test FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, and pool water temperature. Put those in pool math.

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Wow! You are a wealth of knowledge! Thank you! I will work on subscribing to it later today. I just tried the CYA test and the black dot was always visible, just got smaller when it hit 30 so something definitely seems off. I wish Leslie pool had mentioned the importance of chlorine vs ph being more important/ TA. They told me to use the chlorine tabs in the pool float dispenser in the winter months as salt doesn't generate into chlorine in the winter months due to water temps being less than 58. I wonder if I can bring those back to the store and see if they have liquid chlorine. I will let you know once I have a chance to get the app! Thanks for your kindness and prompt response. So glad there is still hope with the scaling.

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Alright! I think I enabled sharing my results, but not 100% sure so here is the link: PoolMath Logs. Hope that works!

 

[PoolStored]

Sharing with TFP isn't working...Did you use the same Uname/Password as TFP? Did you get the subscription?

We need to get your TA down to 80. After that, with pH of around 7.8, and everything else the same, your CSI will be -.3 and may be enough to put the scale back into solution. You can see the impact of this by "add test result" in Pool Math, change TA to 80 and pH to 7.8. It will show you an updated CSI. Don't save the entry, this just calculates CSI AS IF your chemistry had changed. Make sense?

Do you have a waterfall?

Here is a thread on lowering TA. Read it thoroughly and the links within the first post...then we hatch a plan given what you might have available to you to aerate.

Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method

Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...

www.troublefreepool.com

More on scale

Calcium Scale - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Hi! I did subscribe. Must be something in the settings. I just updated my username to match this one. I clicked on anyone can have access with the unique link: PoolMath Logs

I do not have a waterfall feature, but plan on adding it in at some point as we have a place for it that was set up during install.

Anyhow, I'll attach the results- screenshots and read the links you sent. Seems like I'll need to add a lot of muriatic acid and liquid chlorine?

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Hi! I did subscribe. Must be something in the settings. I just updated my username to match this one. I clicked on anyone can have access with the unique link: PoolMath Logs

I do not have a waterfall feature, but plan on adding it in at some point as we have a place for it that was set up during install.

Anyhow, I'll attach the results- screenshots and read the links you sent. Seems like I'll need to add a lot of muriatic acid and liquid chlorine?

Also- under the ph section of the app, it says to add muriatic acid- 2 cups by volume. I'm not sure how to calculate that with 8,000 gallons of water. Would I just do 1 cup, wait 30 mins, then retest- with pump on during this?

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

Also- under the ph section of the app, it says to add muriatic acid- 2 cups by volume. I'm not sure how to calculate that with 8,000 gallons of water. Would I just do 1 cup, wait 30 mins, then retest- with pump on during this?

The app also does not share how much liquid chlorine I should add as it says there is insufficient info to be able to advise under free chlorine.

 

[PoolStored]

Also- under the ph section of the app, it says to add muriatic acid- 2 cups by volume. I'm not sure how to calculate that with 8,000 gallons of water. Would I just do 1 cup, wait 30 mins, then retest- with pump on during this?

1 cup will lower by .2. 2 cups will lower by .4. You should pour two cups, pencil stream over a return. Test 30 minutes later. Add in .4 or less increments until you reach your target.

The app also does not share how much liquid chlorine I should add as it says there is insufficient info to be able to advise under free chlorine.

Show the error screen.

Hi! I did subscribe. Must be something in the settings. I just updated my username to match this one. I clicked on anyone can have access with the unique link: PoolMath Logs

Let's get @Leebo to help...

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

1 cup will lower by .2. 2 cups will lower by .4. You should pour two cups, pencil stream over a return. Test 30 minutes later. Add in .4 or less increments until you reach your target.


Show the error screen.


Let's get @Leebo to help...

Here is the screenshot

 

[dereksanders]

select the pump run time and enter a value. Another option is to calculate for pump run time and enter a value for the SWG %

 

[PoolStored]

^^^what @dereksanders said.

On that screen, you set your target for 3FC.

You selected that you wanted a SWG Cell % as your output.
Put in 6 hours for grins. It will tell you SWG% to get to 3FC

Alternatively, you can select that you want pump run time as your output.
Then put in an SWG % output. It will tell you pump runtime to get to 3FC

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

select the pump run time and enter a value. Another option is to calculate for pump run time and enter a value for the SWG %

Thanks so much!

 

[FiberGlassTx24]

^^^what @dereksanders said.

On that screen, you set your target for 3FC.

You selected that you wanted a SWG Cell % as your output.
Put in 6 hours for grins. It will tell you SWG% to get to 3FC

Alternatively, you can select that you want pump run time as your output.
Then put in an SWG % output. It will tell you pump runtime to get to 3FC

Ah! That worked! Thank you very much! Silly question- how do I know how much liquid chlorine to use based off these results?