A 5.5kw heater draws 24 amps, so the terminal connectors must be rated for at least that. Soldering the connection is recommended, and is what they used to do. The strips were an attempt to avert a common failure.
Relay jumper disintegrated on Balboa VS500 board - advice?
- Thread starter wes8398
- Start date
- Sep 23, 2009
- 144
Thanks again for your time. If you wouldn't mind me asking one more thing of you, I'm looking for a little guidance on whether I should re-do my relay install due to a few via pads/barrels lifting during the job. I noticed a couple traces that run to/from the one or two of the damaged vias to other areas on the board, but I'm wondering if they actually have any impact on this particular application. Both concerned traces seem to run over to the right side of the board where there is a pretty intricate patch of (mostly unused) tiiiiny vias and traces. I know at least one of the new relay pins has a blob of solder on it that isn't connected to the board because of the lack of pad. I've familiarized myself with pad repairs, etc now, but I'm wondering if I even need to worry about this. With utilization of the jumper tabs available to fully connect them without the board, would these heater relays even need to be connected to the board if not for just needing something to be secured to? Do they "talk" to other parts of the board with these couple traces that run from them?
Of course, but I wasn't speaking to this specific use case. I was speaking of the general case, from the perspective of a design engineer selecting parts for populating a circuit board, and the requirement for or presence of a GFI in the intended application would not affect my choice of relay. I'd still go with a fully-encapsulated version. And FYI, ground leakage is not the only way for 220VAC to kill you; you can simply come into contact with the live legs, ground not implicated.
I repair spas not circuit boards. I bring those to an electronics guy.
- Sep 23, 2009
- 144
