Using TFP method with ClearRay spa

chillin1

Member
Oct 14, 2021
14
Chicago, IL
I am a new Jacuzzi J-385 spa owner (460 gal.), and I'm working through the process for keeping the water clean and safe. I use the TFP method for my IG pool, and I'm happy with the results, so I would like to use a similar method with my spa. This spa comes with the Jacuzzi ClearRay system, which includes UV and ozone, and I'm not sure how to use ClearRay within the TFP method. I've read through the spa sticky and many other posts in this forum, so I understand the basics, but my understanding is the ClearRay system destroys FC, so I'm not sure how to test and dose the chlorine if it always reads low because of the ClearRay. I read a couple posts that got into it a little bit, but I'm still not clear on the best way to incorporate it.

I have a few basic questions for the experts here. I received a lot of good advice on my IG pool from the TFP forums a couple years ago, so I'm hoping for the same for my spa. :)

1. Is there any downside to using the ClearRay? I can disconnect it, but it came with the spa, and it seems like it can help keep things clean if used properly, so I'd like to make use of it if possible. I know the bulb is a yearly expense, but I'm ok with that if ClearRay is helpful.

2. What should I be shooting for as far as a FC level? I'm building up the CYA to 30 using dichlor right now, and I keep raising FC to around 5 as recommended, but it's dropping because of the ClearRay. Should I be dosing differently, or do I actually need to add more chlorine because the ClearRay is destroying it? The spa manual says FC will be around 0.5 - 1.0 when using ClearRay, and it claims you can use a lot less chlorine.

3. How long should I be running the ClearRay? It's set to 8 hours a day from the factory, but the store that sold me the spa recommends 24/7. It seems like I won't be able to keep any residual FC if I run it 24/7.

4. Is MPS or non-chlorine shock a good idea for this situation? Is that the best way to do some of the oxidizing if I can't maintain high residual chlorine? If so, what dose, and how to measure the levels in the water? I have the TF Pro test kit for my pool, but I don't know how to measure levels of MPS using that kit.

5. I was thinking to use the ClearRay on a 8 hour/day schedule, raise FC up to 5 every day, regardless of where it falls to. Then, after each spa use, bring FC back to 5 and add MPS as well. Does that seem reasonable, or is there a better chemical schedule to use with ClearRay?

6. The spa also came with the Frog @ease floater with smartchlor and mineral cartridges. Is there any use for this in the TFP method, or should I just not use it?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Same discussion on using UV and Ozone in a spa being discussed at...


@JoyfulNoise said...

I would just use chlorine in the tub and disable the ozonator and UV source, depending on the systems used. A lot of the ozone equipment on tubs are just useless toys. Real ozone systems and higher power UV sources are expensive and require routine maintenance to keep them running properly so I can only imagine how tub manufacturers skimp to save money but claim their tubs will be so easy to manage.
 
Do not use the Frog cartridges … they are more worthless than a cheap ozone systems.

I’ll respond to the other questions soon
 
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I have a Sundance with the same system. The UV and ozone help to get rid of the CCs after usage and chlorine dosing back to your level. I run higher than 5, between 7 & 8, this allows me to check every other day, with no use. I am also running 8 hrs at night 12am to 8am.

Chlorine is an oxidizer and sanitizer, no need for MPS.

To find your overnight loss for the ClearRay dose at night, test for FC and cc, test again in the morning both. This will be a no use test to see your losses overnight.
 
Same discussion on using UV and Ozone in a spa being discussed at...


@JoyfulNoise said...

I would just use chlorine in the tub and disable the ozonator and UV source, depending on the systems used. A lot of the ozone equipment on tubs are just useless toys. Real ozone systems and higher power UV sources are expensive and require routine maintenance to keep them running properly so I can only imagine how tub manufacturers skimp to save money but claim their tubs will be so easy to manage.
Thanks @ajw22 I'm not sure if the CLearRay system is legit or if it falls into the category of useless toys. How can I tell? Is there a min power rating or something I can check?
 
I have a Sundance with the same system. The UV and ozone help to get rid of the CCs after usage and chlorine dosing back to your level. I run higher than 5, between 7 & 8, this allows me to check every other day, with no use. I am also running 8 hrs at night 12am to 8am.

Chlorine is an oxidizer and sanitizer, no need for MPS.

To find your overnight loss for the ClearRay dose at night, test for FC and cc, test again in the morning both. This will be a no use test to see your losses overnight.
Thanks @JoeSelf that's great info from someone with the same system. After I do the purge this week I will run the overnight chlorine loss test with the ClearRay on to see what the drop is. Do you just increase your recommended dose of chlorine by the loss amount to make up for it? Do you shock the tub on a weekly basis too, or just run ClearRay + high FC level?
 
1. Is there any downside to using the ClearRay? I can disconnect it, but it came with the spa, and it seems like it can help keep things clean if used properly, so I'd like to make use of it if possible. I know the bulb is a yearly expense, but I'm ok with that if ClearRay is helpful.

Ozone and UV are both powerful oxidizers. They will compete with and react with chlorine. So if they do anything harmful at all, they will mostly increase the chlorine demand in your tub.

Also, ozone can cause a lot of damage to plastic parts and covers. Properly designed ozone systems use a contact tank to pass ozone through the water and then allow the ozone to vent off, usually through a charcoal filter which neutralizes the ozone. Ozone is a respiratory irritant at low concentrations. So if all the ozone generated goes into the main tub water, the cover at the very least will be exposed to ozone and that can degrade its useful life more quickly. Not a huge a downside but certainly something to keep in mind.

2. What should I be shooting for as far as a FC level? I'm building up the CYA to 30 using dichlor right now, and I keep raising FC to around 5 as recommended, but it's dropping because of the ClearRay. Should I be dosing differently, or do I actually need to add more chlorine because the ClearRay is destroying it? The spa manual says FC will be around 0.5 - 1.0 when using ClearRay, and it claims you can use a lot less chlorine.
As @JoeSelf said, always aim for the high side of TFP recommended levels and you’ll never go wrong.


3. How long should I be running the ClearRay? It's set to 8 hours a day from the factory, but the store that sold me the spa recommends 24/7. It seems like I won't be able to keep any residual FC if I run it 24/7.

That’s trial and error. I would definitely not run it 24/7. For a good ozone system, it should only need a couple of hours of run time AFTER a soak to let the ozone break down bather waste and then you can rebalance the chlorine levels. You don’t want the chlorine and ozone fighting each other. Use ozone after a soak then chlorinate.

4. Is MPS or non-chlorine shock a good idea for this situation? Is that the best way to do some of the oxidizing if I can't maintain high residual chlorine? If so, what dose, and how to measure the levels in the water? I have the TF Pro test kit for my pool, but I don't know how to measure levels of MPS using that kit.

MPS is unnecessary and it interferes with FC/CC testing. Don’t use it especially if you’re trying to figure out how best to use the ClearRay system. Too many variables to deal with and MPS is unnecessary most of the time.

5. I was thinking to use the ClearRay on a 8 hour/day schedule, raise FC up to 5 every day, regardless of where it falls to. Then, after each spa use, bring FC back to 5 and add MPS as well. Does that seem reasonable, or is there a better chemical schedule to use with ClearRay?

Follow @JoeSelf ’s advice and start simple. Just chlorine and running ClearRay after a soak. No need for anything else.

Already answered about the Frog stuff. Get rid of it. And definitely do an Ahhsome purge of the plumbing. Purging the plumbing and making it squeaky clean will have the biggest impact by far on tub water health. More than ClearRay or any of the magic potions sold in spa stores. Chlorine is KING and everything else is a distraction.
 

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Thank you all for your help. I have a good place to start now, and I'll experiment with it as I learn more.
Hi, I'd like to jump in here because I'm doing my first purge tomorrow on my Sundance-Optima (410 gallon with Clear-Ray). I live in the mountains in Wyoming where they keep the pump running 24/7 to avoid problems, probably associated with lower temps. That would mean the Clear-Ray is also on 24/7 if I understand how it operates. That seems to mean that there would be no rest time for the Cl to work. Would it just make more sense to disconnect the Clear-Ray? I'm guessing (assuming) that any ozone that is created comes from the UV from the Clear-Ray exciting the O2? So it is just a byproduct? Is there any downside to just disconnecting the Clear-Ray and running TFP as a normal hot tub? - Doug
 
Hi Dave, I wondered if I should do that, and I settled on running it. 1. I don't think it does anything to the water balance/chemistry itself. 2. It is very effective at killing pathogens, such as viruses and bacteria and other organisms. It does deplete the chlorine, but seems to allow it to stabilize at a lower level of 1-2 ppm, which apparently is sufficient to oxidize the remains of the pathogens so that they can be rendered more harmless. Right now I'm going for leaving it on, but I'm also interested in the actual mechanism of depleting the chlorine.
 
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