Hayward VS 900 Motor Replacement or new bearings?

Tris

Gold Supporter
May 25, 2020
25
Hartford, CT
Our 4 year old pump is failing. The noise level is high and I removed the impeller to find salt build up behind the shaft seal. I cleaned it up and reassembled it for the season with the expectation that we'll need to replace the motor.
IMG_1056.JPG

A full replacement would be the most expensive and require some plumbing as the original install doesn't appear to be removable:
IMG_1057.JPG

I did find a power end replacement option, it's not an exact model for model motor, but the specs are fairly similar:

Believe we can potentially repair this by replacing the bearings but I'm having trouble finding the specific bearings -- anyone know which bearings I'd need to purchase?
I also understand I'd need a "Go Kit" - Hayward TriStar, EcoStar Pool Pump Seal Kit | By Pureline | GOKIT81 - INYOPools.com

Looking for input to avoid a multi-thousand repair/replacement... pool companies are looking for ~$3,000 to replace this for me.

Thanks!
 
Our 4 year old pump is failing. The noise level is high and I removed the impeller to find salt build up behind the shaft seal. I cleaned it up and reassembled it for the season with the expectation that we'll need to replace the motor.
View attachment 609332

A full replacement would be the most expensive and require some plumbing as the original install doesn't appear to be removable:
View attachment 609331

I did find a power end replacement option, it's not an exact model for model motor, but the specs are fairly similar:

Believe we can potentially repair this by replacing the bearings but I'm having trouble finding the specific bearings -- anyone know which bearings I'd need to purchase?
I also understand I'd need a "Go Kit" - Hayward TriStar, EcoStar Pool Pump Seal Kit | By Pureline | GOKIT81 - INYOPools.com

Looking for input to avoid a multi-thousand repair/replacement... pool companies are looking for ~$3,000 to replace this for me.

Thanks!
The "build up" behind the shaft seal is not all salt, though that could be a part of it, but the water that has evaporated and the corrosion that happens when a seal is allowed to leak for a while. Has been happening to pumps for years.
Bearings could be 6204 on each end or 6204 on the front and 6203 on the back.
If you are able to do the work, a "power end" is available for that pump for about $1200.00. Remove the power and six bolts, slide the old off, the new on, replace the 6 bolts, replace the power, re-program the pump if you don't have automation. No replumbing involved.
Whoever installed that pump with standard PVC pipe adapters should never be allowed to work on pool equipment.
 
Thank you 1poolman1! I had not found that link and $1,200 is a lot better than $1,700 I had found.

Is replacing the bearings worth a shot or if water got into the pump, just replace the whole power end?

Also - is there anything special I need to take into consideration due to having a salt water generator?

Thanks,
Tris
 
Thank you 1poolman1! I had not found that link and $1,200 is a lot better than $1,700 I had found.

Is replacing the bearings worth a shot or if water got into the pump, just replace the whole power end?

Also - is there anything special I need to take into consideration due to having a salt water generator?

Thanks,
Tris
Virtually every pool is a "saltwater" pool if there was ever any chlorine in it, some even to and exceeding the level for a SWG.
Bearings? Depends on how much work you are willing to do and if you have a). a motor shop willing (some won't for some reason), or b). the tools to remove and reinstall bearings.
Its not that hard. There are videos on motor bearings on YouTube, and you can virtually ignore all the warnings about the magnets in those motors. Just be aware that they are very strong and tools can come flying at them if you aren't careful.
I've done it three times on Hayward VSP motors. Two were very successful. The third developed bearing noise within a year and I replaced them again. Started about a year later, but the customer wanted a new pump by then.
The bearings used in a VSP are supposed to be "inverter duty" bearings that I never could find a source. That may be why the third repair failed. The VSP drive introduces electrical charges to the motor shaft and that damages regular bearings. Its a risk you take.
 
Thanks folks — disassembled the pump and the motor was not in my skill set to repair — through bolts snapped and going down the replace the power end route. Fingers crossed that’s all I need to do, especially given we’re at end of season.

I did also order a proper shaft seal and will install that ASAP. Appreciate the assistance!
 
Thanks folks — disassembled the pump and the motor was not in my skill set to repair — through bolts snapped and going down the replace the power end route. Fingers crossed that’s all I need to do, especially given we’re at end of season.

I did also order a proper shaft seal and will install that ASAP. Appreciate the assistance!
Thanks folks — disassembled the pump and the motor was not in my skill set to repair — through bolts snapped and going down the replace the power end route. Fingers crossed that’s all I need to do, especially given we’re at end of season.

I did also order a proper shaft seal and will install that ASAP. Appreciate the assistance!
The power end referenced does not need a new seal, it is complete. You remove the power conduit, 6 bolts, slide the old off, reverse the process to install. It should come with a new body gasket, but may not, so be prepared to get a new one of those.
 
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