Just overwhelmed

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Squatting Hen

Well-known member
Aug 28, 2024
78
Dallas TX
I have had a pool about three years now, bought a house that came with one. Had to replace the filter, booster pump, 280, and main pump and salt cell over the 3 years. All seem to be working okay now.

For some reason I am just overwhelmed and frustrated with the chemicals. I have used a few different pool people over the years and also have tried testing the chemicals myself with the K2006 fast and the salt test kit. I can test just fine, it’s knowing what to do next is where my mind goes haywire.

I think the most challenging part is all the variations of suggested ranges. My mind just doesn’t work well that way. TFP has a range, Pooli app has a range….I know….Leslies has a range….they are all different. Just difficult to know what to use. Obviously I have learned a lot from this site, and the getting started articles, but still, I like things to be exact, and seeing all the variations of recommend ranges just throws me off.

Pool is clear and clean, no issues there. But I would like to drop my pool people and save the $75 a month. They come every two weeks now, just chemicals only and take care of all the cleaning.
 
Hey Hen and Welcome !!!!
Squatting Hen said:
I like things to be exact, and seeing all the variations of recommend ranges just throws me off
Click to expand...
Everybody has their way. Several of the other ways keep a line of newbs out the door here, needing to seek us put. In the spring the line stretches down the block. We do not reciprocate that our members need to find another way. So. 😁
 
Welcome and don't get discouraged with the ranges. Give TFP a shot here by staying away from pool stores, other apps (use the PoolMath app) and fire your pool dis-service. Get your test results posted up and print off the CYA/FC chart for reference. Once your pool levels are within each recommended range then you can depend on your own testing to lead you to a clean and sanitized pool. No potions are needed. Just muriatic acid and liquid chlorine and then your salt cell to maintain the free chlorine.
 
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Download pool math. It will help you. You log your results and it will help you with recommendations. Link-->PoolMath

General advice.
  • CYA: Keep your CYA 60-80. This will help the life of your cell.
  • FC: Maintain your FC based on your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
  • pH: Manage your pH to keep it in the 7s. If TA is > 80, then when pH gets to 8.0, lower it to 7.6 with muriatic acid. Pool math will tell you how much is needed. When you lower pH you also lower TA. When TA gets to 60-80 range, only lower pH to 7.8 when it gets to 8.0.
  • TA: measure it but don't worry about it or change it. Manage your pH.
  • CH: you need at least 200-250ppm to protect the pebble. Unless your CH gets above 600, you don't have to worry if it is at least 200-250. Test the CH of your fill water.
  • Salt: Get the manual for your SWG and look up the required salt levels. Maintain your salt in the center of the range for your SWG.

It really is simple, don't over think it.
 
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You really can't mix and match advice from different places. That is just going to lead to the confusion you are seeing. I'm relatively new here, but TFP's end goal isn't to sell you any products or services, it is just volunteers who enjoy helping other people learn to take care of their pool cheap an easy.
 
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Lots to read here, thanks.
Tested myself today and this is what I got. Also because I have been new to this, I have been taking a sample down the street to to make sure I am doing it and reading it right at home. They have matched pretty well except salt. These are from a pool shop, but match mine, except mine are not to the decimal and rounded.

Free and total chlorine: 7.4
PH: 7.6
Alkalinity: 92
Hardness: 168
CYA: 52
Salt: 3400

I also changed my VSP from 24 hours to 10-12 hours at 3 different speeds. Played around with lots of options on that too. My salt generator is set at 25%.
 
PoolStored said:
Download pool math. It will help you. You log your results and it will help you with recommendations. Link-->PoolMath

General advice.
  • CYA: Keep your CYA 60-80. This will help the life of your cell.
  • FC: Maintain your FC based on your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
  • pH: Manage your pH to keep it in the 7s. If TA is > 80, then when pH gets to 8.0, lower it to 7.6 with muriatic acid. Pool math will tell you how much is needed. When you lower pH you also lower TA. When TA gets to 60-80 range, only lower pH to 7.8 when it gets to 8.0.
  • TA: measure it but don't worry about it or change it. Manage your pH.
  • CH: you need at least 200-250ppm to protect the pebble. Unless your CH gets above 600, you don't have to worry if it is at least 200-250. Test the CH of your fill water.
  • Salt: Get the manual for your SWG and look up the required salt levels. Maintain your salt in the center of the range for your SWG.

It really is simple, don't over think it.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I did download that app first, and then Pooli, and Leslie’s. This makes it sound easier. From this my CH is too low and my salt too high. My salt is normally kept on the higher of the generated range.
 
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The first step is to trust your K2006 test kit and only post numbers from it. Pool store tests can be inaccurate and unreliable. Post the numbers from your test kit and there are plenty of people here that an give you advice on what to do next.

Those numbers don't appear to be from the K2006 as they are too exact. Alkalinity should be a multiple of 10. CH is either a multiple of 10 or 25 depending on how you did the test. CYA is a multiple of 10, if done with the K2006 and it appears to be between 2 lines, you round up to the next 10.
 
What generator do you have? Make and model.

Post results from YOUR Kit...

Your taylor kit is more accurate than the pool store...
Testing_Accuracy.jpeg
 

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Parac said:
The first step is to trust your K2006 test kit and only post numbers from it. Pool store tests can be inaccurate and unreliable. Post the numbers from your test kit and there are plenty of people here that an give you advice on what to do next.

Those numbers don't appear to be from the K2006 as they are too exact. Alkalinity should be a multiple of 10. CH is either a multiple of 10 or 25 depending on how you did the test. CYA is a multiple of 10, if done with the K2006 and it appears to be between 2 lines, you round up to the next 10.
Click to expand...
Correct. Those were from the store but did match my K2006 test as mentioned. Mine just were rounded as you said.
 
PoolStored said:
What generator do you have? Make and model.

Post results from YOUR Kit...

Your taylor kit is more accurate than the pool store...
View attachment 606885
Click to expand...

I will do mine again tomorrow, but my kit matches pretty much to the store test, except mine were rounded and the salt was off by 300. That was my salt on the numbers.

I have a Hayward salt generator (have to look at the model tomorrow) and recently got a Pureline Replacement Salt Cell, Compatible with AquaRite® T-CELL-15® PL7106.
 
Squatting Hen said:
I have had a pool about three years now, bought a house that came with one. Had to replace the filter, booster pump, 280, and main pump and salt cell over the 3 years. All seem to be working okay now.

For some reason I am just overwhelmed and frustrated with the chemicals. I have used a few different pool people over the years and also have tried testing the chemicals myself with the K2006 fast and the salt test kit. I can test just fine, it’s knowing what to do next is where my mind goes haywire.

I think the most challenging part is all the variations of suggested ranges. My mind just doesn’t work well that way. TFP has a range, Pooli app has a range….I know….Leslies has a range….they are all different. Just difficult to know what to use. Obviously I have learned a lot from this site, and the getting started articles, but still, I like things to be exact, and seeing all the variations of recommend ranges just throws me off.

Pool is clear and clean, no issues there. But I would like to drop my pool people and save the $75 a month. They come every two weeks now, just chemicals only and take care of all the cleaning.
Click to expand...
Accept the feeling of being overwhelmed. Totally normal. I was (still am) a newb when it comes to my swim spa. Unlike pools that are open to the air and come with their own set of headaches, I need to fight the frustration contending with my spa which is heated, covered, dark, with aeration; all variables that can make me pull my hair out.

You'll get the hang of it. Use the 2006 kit and follow it exactly. Its really easy to do once you get the hang of it.

With your ranges, allow a little wiggle room. Doesnt have to be exact. Only listen to TFP advice, especially the people in here who have been around for years; they know their stuff. I wouldn't be in my swim spa if TFP didnt exist.
 
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Just ran through my Taylor test kit and the salt kit.

I struggle with reading the PH levels and the CYA. 7.8 and 8.0 look so similar it’s hard to tell. CYA….that dot….is it when it starts to disappear but you can still see it, or when you can’t see it at all? Those two are the hardest.

CL - 7.5
PH - either 7.8 or 8.0 hard to tell for me
Salt - 3600
TA - turned clear at 9 drops, light red color at 10, so 100 (are we just looking for a red tint or a deeper red?
CH - 200 same as the red, just looking for a blue to it to show?
CYA - 40-50. Hard to tell when to stop.

The Pool Math app says my TA, CYA, and CH are all off.
 
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So Ph is a long term issue. In the short term, don't sweat it if you dose a couple days early or late.

I use a thumb from each hand to block off above and below what I want to compare. I find yes/no way easier than best of 3. I can usually tell it's darker than the one and lighter than the other, so it's in the middle, or it's clearly one of them. Again, close is plenty close enough.

For CYA look away and take a lightning fast glance. Call it yes or no if you easily make it out. If you stare, your brain lies to you. Wanna see ? Look at your nose. It was there the whole time I typed this. Probably longer.
 
Squatting Hen said:
Just ran through my Taylor test kit and the salt kit.

I struggle with reading the PH levels and the CYA. 7.8 and 8.0 look so similar it’s hard to tell. CYA….that dot….is it when it starts to disappear but you can still see it, or when you can’t see it at all? Those two are the hardest.

CL - 7.5
PH - either 7.8 or 8.0 hard to tell for me
Salt - 3600
TA - turned clear at 9 drops, light red color at 10, so 100 (are we just looking for a red tint or a deeper red?
CH - 200 same as the red, just looking for a blue to it to show?
CYA - 40-50. Hard to tell when to stop.

The Pool Math app says my TA, CYA, and CH are all off.
Click to expand...
Note the poolmath app is a calculator only and not telling you to do anything. It includes default values for water tests and you can adjust those targets as needed. Don’t blindly follow the app. All your results are fine.
 

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