39k gallon clothes washer

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Household6

Household6

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Sep 15, 2013
757
Fayetteville, NC
Pool Size
38000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’ll spare you the details.
Long story short, I just got done dumping 9 lbs of Arm & Hammer clothes DETERGENT into our pool instead of the 17 lbs of BAKING SODA it needed.

DOH!

Sure smells nice!
But the cloudy look isn’t what I was going for.

A TFP search showed most recent result as 2020 for someone who did the same. Consensus seemed to be to SLAM it.

Just wanted to check with the hive and see if there are any advancements since then of what to do.

Any thoughts of how long it might take to clear up?

Test results at 4pm:
FC: 0
Ph: 7.5
TA: 40
CH: 400
CYA: 40

Added 6 gal of LC at 4:30pm to start SLAM (water was clear, but had some minor algae in corners).

11pm:
FC: 7.5

11:05pm
Added 9 lbs of detergent
Added 3 gal LC
 

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Keep the slam going. When slam is below 10FC you can adjust the PH to the recommended 7.2 pre-slam. With a PH of 7.5 I'd recheck If the TA isn't really higher but leave that alone at whatever it is till the slam is done.
 
wireform said:
Keep the slam going. When slam is below 10FC you can adjust the PH to the recommended 7.2 pre-slam. With a PH of 7.5 I'd recheck If the TA isn't really higher but leave that alone at whatever it is till the slam is done.
Click to expand...
This morning’s test results will be interesting.

Would you use LC or 53% Cal Hypo for the quickest results?
 
I would probably just maintain normal levels and allow it to diminish over time.

At that level, I doubt that anyone will have an adverse reaction unless someone has an allergy to the product.

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), also known as sodium lauryl ether sulfate or sodium alkylethersulfate, is a synthetic surfactant and detergent that's used in many personal care products and for industrial purposes.

It's a common ingredient in cosmetics, household and industrial cleaners, and food additives

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), an accepted contraction of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), also called sodium alkylethersulfate, is an anionic detergent and surfactant found in many personal care products (soaps, shampoos, toothpaste, etc.) and for industrial uses. SLES is an inexpensive and very effective foaming agent.

SLES, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), and sodium pareth sulfate are surfactants that are used in many cosmetic products for their cleaning and emulsifying properties. It is derived from palm kernel oil or coconut oil.
Click to expand...
 
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Household6 said:
This morning’s test results will be interesting.

Would you use LC or 53% Cal Hypo for the quickest results?
Click to expand...

JamesW said:
I would probably just maintain normal levels and allow it to diminish over time.

At that level, I doubt that anyone will have an adverse reaction unless someone has an allergy to the product.
Click to expand...
my thoughts were “it’s detergent for clothes. Clothes you wear against your skin. So it can’t be that bad, right?”

Having said that, it IS pretty cloudy!

We have 2 (close) friends coming over this afternoon to dine and swim, so at least want to do what I can.
 

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House,
One more tip to hasten the clarity. Go get yourself some DE filter media and add to the skimmer about a cup full and watch the pressure gauge move ONLY one psi increase. If after 10 minutes it didn't go 1 psi up add little more but then you need to babysit the filter as it catches more junk the pressure will come up rather quickly. Then backwash and use the same amount as the the first time.
Add DE to a Sand Filter
 
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wireform said:
House,
One more tip to hasten the clarity. Go get yourself some DE filter media and add to the skimmer about a cup full and watch the pressure gauge move ONLY one psi increase. If after 10 minutes it didn't go 1 psi up add little more but then you need to babysit the filter as it catches more junk the pressure will come up rather quickly. Then backwash and use the same amount as the the first time.
Add DE to a Sand Filter
Click to expand...
So add the DE directly to the skimmer and allow it to go into the filter. Or should I add a skimmer sock and put the DE in it, then rinse it when I backwash?

Thoughts on using a flocculant? (I’ve only used it once in my 15 years of TFP, but it worked nicely!)
 
Household6 said:
17 lbs of BAKING SODA it needed
Click to expand...
Confirm you're using LC to chlorinate? Under normal circumstances, a non-trichlor pool should never need baking soda.

What test kit do you have? (Assuming you're using Taylor test agents.)

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?
 

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wireform said:
Add the it to the skimmer, no skimmer sock but you must have the basket in there.
Floccluant is really a 4 letter word with extra letters. Don't even think about it.
Click to expand...
4-letter word - I know, I know . . .
But clothes detergent isn’t exactly a good word. lol!
And I have to go to the pool store! 😂
 
pjt said:
Confirm you're using LC to chlorinate? Under normal circumstances, a non-trichlor pool should never need baking soda.

What test kit do you have? (Assuming you're using Taylor test agents.)

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?
Click to expand...
A no-tri pool should never need baking soda? That’s a first I’ve ever heard that!

Use LC 98% of the time (cal hypo when going on vaca - our pool eats calcium for snacks.)

k-2006 kit.

TA test - yes, I add until the red no longer gets more red.

Results from 30 min ago:
FC: 2
Ph: 8.5+ OFF THE CHART! Never seen it so high!
Ak: 50
Cya: 30 (this one surprises me a bit)
CH: 400

Fill water:
----------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 20000 gallons
Chemistry: Liquid Chlorine
----------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 3.5 (3 months ago)
pH: 8.4 (3 months ago)
TA: 30 (3 months ago)
CH: 30 (3 months ago)
CYA:
=============================
 
Mdragger88 said:
www.google.com

Add DE to a Sand Filter

A clean pool filter will increase the efficiency of your pool! ... your filter are to backwash it, clean the manifolds and grids, and add new DE.
www.google.com www.google.com

You said you have algae so yes
SLAM Process
Click to expand...
Pretty in-tune with how my pool reacts after 10 years of TFP. 😉 One “dose” and one “update” would have had me passing overnight test (had I not added the detergent.)
 
Household6 said:
I’ll spare you the details.
Long story short, I just got done dumping 9 lbs of Arm & Hammer clothes DETERGENT into our pool instead of the 17 lbs of BAKING SODA it needed.

DOH!

Sure smells nice!
But the cloudy look isn’t what I was going for.

A TFP search showed most recent result as 2020 for someone who did the same. Consensus seemed to be to SLAM it.

Just wanted to check with the hive and see if there are any advancements since then of what to do.

Any thoughts of how long it might take to clear up?

Test results at 4pm:
FC: 0
Ph: 7.5
TA: 40
CH: 400
CYA: 40

Added 6 gal of LC at 4:30pm to start SLAM (water was clear, but had some minor algae in corners).

11pm:
FC: 7.5

11:05pm
Added 9 lbs of detergent
Added 3 gal LC
Click to expand...
UPDATE 1:
Went with continuing to SLAM and using LC and to add DA to filter.
Had to make a trip to Leslie’s for the DA so I brought along a water sample to have tested.

results (5pm):
FC 4.9
CC: 5.1
Ph: 8.5
TA: 61
CH: 331
CYA: 19

Iron: 0
Copper: .1
Phosphates: 1085
TDS: 300

Have backwashed, tested, and added LC twice today. Resulted in some improvement.
I will be backwashing, adding DE, testing and adding LC tmrw.

I’ve rarely tested for CC. Last record was 2-3 months ago and level was good. I’ve never had to deal with high CC, so I’ll be reading up on that.

Never have tested for phosphates. But given the detergent, not surprised that’s high. Anything I need to do to address that?

Thanks for y’all’s input!
 

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