- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,103
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
My FIRST WATER TEST
- Thread starter oledan
- Start date
You were spot on......I did another test after leaving cover off pool all day because I wanted to see what the FC would be after pool being left uncovered on a bright sunny day. Lost 2ppm FC and PH was 7.4.
Will PH continue to rise on its own? Can it get too high if it does?
I think I may test FC again in the morning to see what my FC loss is overnight. I added around 26oz of Chlorine this evening bring me back to 8ppm.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,103
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Another water test today after missing several days due to work. It about killed me not testing every morning so I was anxious to test this morning. Being gone this week my auto cover was on most days where normally when I'm home it's open. I normally open the cover during rain storms to raise water level, but was forced to raise water level this week via well water-high in iron (I have a hose end filter). I also had my maintenance dose of Chlorine at about 26oz/day to maintain levels at 8ppm.
TA: 90
PH: 7.4
CYA: 40-45 (my imperfect estimation) (dropped 5-10ppm since last test)
FC: 8
CC: 0
CH: 380 (raised 20ppm since last test)
Questions are....The fact that my TA and PH remained rock steady for several days is that due to my vinyl auto cover being on every day maintained the levels?
Was my slight rise in CH due to me raising water level by 1 1/2 inches with my well water?
Same question for my slight dip in CYA?
What level should I maintain CYA at? TFP says my ideal levels are 30-50ppm so don't mess with it until levels reach 30? When that time comes could I use some leftover DiChlor shock to help raise CYA or just use stabilizer?
And lastly: Since I started following TFP guidelines I've never had a positive CC test? Is this typical and if so why?
Thank you for your guidance,
Dan
TA: 90
PH: 7.4
CYA: 40-45 (my imperfect estimation) (dropped 5-10ppm since last test)
FC: 8
CC: 0
CH: 380 (raised 20ppm since last test)
Questions are....The fact that my TA and PH remained rock steady for several days is that due to my vinyl auto cover being on every day maintained the levels?
Was my slight rise in CH due to me raising water level by 1 1/2 inches with my well water?
Same question for my slight dip in CYA?
What level should I maintain CYA at? TFP says my ideal levels are 30-50ppm so don't mess with it until levels reach 30? When that time comes could I use some leftover DiChlor shock to help raise CYA or just use stabilizer?
And lastly: Since I started following TFP guidelines I've never had a positive CC test? Is this typical and if so why?
Thank you for your guidance,
Dan
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,103
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes. The cover prevents CO2 outgassing that causes pH to rise.
Normal testing variance.
I would not let CYA drop to 30. As you can see you have testing variances. Keep CYA around 40 +/- 10.
I prefer using stabilizer where I know accurately how much CYA was added.
No CC is the goal.
Ok, a new test two day later since my last post. We used the pool, so levels are rising some.
TA 100
PH 7.6
FC 8
CC 0
Would you lower TA with MA or leave it alone? At what point would you want to lower TA?
I'm happy with keeping the FC at 8 thanks to pool math I add a small amount every day and it's maintained within .5 or so!
TA 100
PH 7.6
FC 8
CC 0
Would you lower TA with MA or leave it alone? At what point would you want to lower TA?
I'm happy with keeping the FC at 8 thanks to pool math I add a small amount every day and it's maintained within .5 or so!
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,103
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
TA 100
PH 7.8
CH 380
CYA 50
FC 9
CC .5 (Question below)
So for the first time since joining TFP I showed signs of CC
. My FC was at 9(I want to maintain 8 so my daily dosing was a bit off) using speed stir I put the five drops of reagent in and I saw the slightest shad of pink while the SpeedStir was spinning but was not sure so I shut off the speedStir light and looked again in the ambient light-still slightly pink. One drop of the next reagent used made it perfectly clear again. So I have .5 CC - I got to admit I'm a little heartbroken and miffed at the same time. Why did this happen and more importantly how do I get rid of it? I learned my lesson....a few posts ago I was somewhat bragging that I never had any CC-lesson Learned.
Also My TA is above TFP recommended levels according to Pool Math. I'm confused as to why I am advised not to lower it to stay within TFP's own guidelines?
Thand you,
Dan
PH 7.8
CH 380
CYA 50
FC 9
CC .5 (Question below)
So for the first time since joining TFP I showed signs of CC
. My FC was at 9(I want to maintain 8 so my daily dosing was a bit off) using speed stir I put the five drops of reagent in and I saw the slightest shad of pink while the SpeedStir was spinning but was not sure so I shut off the speedStir light and looked again in the ambient light-still slightly pink. One drop of the next reagent used made it perfectly clear again. So I have .5 CC - I got to admit I'm a little heartbroken and miffed at the same time. Why did this happen and more importantly how do I get rid of it? I learned my lesson....a few posts ago I was somewhat bragging that I never had any CC-lesson Learned. Also My TA is above TFP recommended levels according to Pool Math. I'm confused as to why I am advised not to lower it to stay within TFP's own guidelines?
Thand you,
Dan
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,103
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
0.5 CC is part I’d normal sanitation and nothing to be concerned about.
TA does not matter for your type of pool and equipment. You need to adjust generic TFP recommendations for specific pool environments. TA will be lowered as you lower your pH. No reason to take other actions and create unnecessary work.
TA does not matter for your type of pool and equipment. You need to adjust generic TFP recommendations for specific pool environments. TA will be lowered as you lower your pH. No reason to take other actions and create unnecessary work.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,672
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The way I see the TA debate, is it's half a dozen or six providing there's no scaling.
Some let it ride at the high side of in range, or even a little higher and wait it out to fall naturally while others force it to be done sooner. But here me out.
Say it takes 5 rounds of dosing and aerating the PH back up to be done quickly. Then you need to manage the PH regularly anyway for the time it would have taken to fall on its own. So you used the 5 doses, plus a couple more in that time frame. If you just let it be, the Ph probably would need closer dose intervals for that time frame, but you wouldn't need much more than the 8 doses (?) from the other way in the end. Or maybe you'd need less than the 8 doses over a couple weeks. Whether you did 5 doses over a couple days then 3 weekly doses, or 8 doses twice a week, what did you really save with time or supplies ? You're already out the checking FC so it's not like you have to pause life specifically for the Ph if you let it ride.
I'm usually one of the impatient ones who wants everything *now*, but I'm on team patient here.
Some let it ride at the high side of in range, or even a little higher and wait it out to fall naturally while others force it to be done sooner. But here me out.
Say it takes 5 rounds of dosing and aerating the PH back up to be done quickly. Then you need to manage the PH regularly anyway for the time it would have taken to fall on its own. So you used the 5 doses, plus a couple more in that time frame. If you just let it be, the Ph probably would need closer dose intervals for that time frame, but you wouldn't need much more than the 8 doses (?) from the other way in the end. Or maybe you'd need less than the 8 doses over a couple weeks. Whether you did 5 doses over a couple days then 3 weekly doses, or 8 doses twice a week, what did you really save with time or supplies ? You're already out the checking FC so it's not like you have to pause life specifically for the Ph if you let it ride.
I'm usually one of the impatient ones who wants everything *now*, but I'm on team patient here.
Thank you, fellas. So PH will naturally continue to rise on its own and when it reaches 8.2 lower it with MA down to 7.6 and the TA will follow???
I use pool math to get the correct dosing for this correct?
Concerning the CC.....I'm gathering from ajw22's answer occasionally getting .5CC is normal and not to worry about it? Will the FC in the pool take care of the CC in the pool so when I test in a couple days the CC will be gone? I want it gone!
Still learning,
Dan
I use pool math to get the correct dosing for this correct?
Concerning the CC.....I'm gathering from ajw22's answer occasionally getting .5CC is normal and not to worry about it? Will the FC in the pool take care of the CC in the pool so when I test in a couple days the CC will be gone? I want it gone!
Still learning,
Dan
Bingo. There's no harm in being patient, or impatient.
Always. For anything. You tell the calculator what you wish to accomplish and it tells you how. Don't blindly follow the generic 'ideals' and such.
With a one drop test variance, 0.5 is effectively 0 in TFPland. Or it's normal pool operation and still ok.
*for example with the recommended FC levels. Poolmath says target is 5 to 7 FC. But it doesn't know the OP is in TX, in August, with a historic 'heat dome' going on with stoopid UV right now. .
Or your 100 TA being totally fine based on your specific situation.
You tell it, not the other way around.
Got questions? Come ask. We literally show up all day to help folks. Don't be all none of that 'I don't want to bother anyone' nonsense.
Or your 100 TA being totally fine based on your specific situation.
You tell it, not the other way around.
Got questions? Come ask. We literally show up all day to help folks. Don't be all none of that 'I don't want to bother anyone' nonsense.
WELL WATER TEST:
I've seen various posts advising to test your fill water and I've never done that. Until now. I live in the country and have well water. I use a hose in filter and the line used to fill pool is non-softened straight from the well. I have access to a line that is connected to my household water softener but it's on the other side of the house and would be a PIA to use. We fight iron as all wells do around here. Here's my test results:
TA 330
PH 7.0-7.2 (in between these two colors)
CH 200
FC 0
To be honest I don't understand why these numbers impact me. I have no choice but to fill from my well. So please explain what these numbers mean to me? Do I have a good well or a bad well (for filling my pool)?
As always, thanks much
Dan
I've seen various posts advising to test your fill water and I've never done that. Until now. I live in the country and have well water. I use a hose in filter and the line used to fill pool is non-softened straight from the well. I have access to a line that is connected to my household water softener but it's on the other side of the house and would be a PIA to use. We fight iron as all wells do around here. Here's my test results:
TA 330
PH 7.0-7.2 (in between these two colors)
CH 200
FC 0
To be honest I don't understand why these numbers impact me. I have no choice but to fill from my well. So please explain what these numbers mean to me? Do I have a good well or a bad well (for filling my pool)?
As always, thanks much
Dan
Yes. But now you'll know how they will affect you so you can plan around it.
The high TA and CH will forever be raising those levels. It won't be nearly as much as it is in the desert where they only get evaporation and no rain, but it will come I to play.
The sky high TA will pull the Ph up quickly, needing frequent muriatic acid doses. Manage the Ph in the low 7s (dose at 7.6 down to 7.2) and the TA will come down quicker.
Don't add calcium until you know how the rain and evaporation compare. Maybe you don't need to fill that often and the fill water doesn't matter. Maybe you'll be filling a bunch and the CH will climb quickly. Road test it and see.
I've learned a bunch from you at TFP and now feel comfortable in maintaining my pool to TFP specs!
I've learned that my pool while being used w/cover open loses about 3ppm FC per day and I've learned that it takes approximately 40oz of 10% of Chlorine to put me back up to the level I want to maintain which is 8ppm. I've learned that when not using the pool with cover closed it's exactly half that.
I've learned that my PH will continue to rise naturally and not to freak out about it, just let it do its thing until it reaches 8.2 then add the appropriate amount of MA to lower down to the lower 7's. This keeps me from seldom having to add any acid whatsoever. I've learned you really don't try to control PH but rather contain it within its upper and lower limits.
I'm so thankful to the TFP Mods and all members who've answered my many questions about chemistry throughout this thread. I'm thankful that I never again have to rely on my pool store tests and trust my own test results.
I'm probably won't be posting as much because I've gained knowledge to answer most of my own questions!
Thank you TFP,
Dan
I've learned that my pool while being used w/cover open loses about 3ppm FC per day and I've learned that it takes approximately 40oz of 10% of Chlorine to put me back up to the level I want to maintain which is 8ppm. I've learned that when not using the pool with cover closed it's exactly half that.
I've learned that my PH will continue to rise naturally and not to freak out about it, just let it do its thing until it reaches 8.2 then add the appropriate amount of MA to lower down to the lower 7's. This keeps me from seldom having to add any acid whatsoever. I've learned you really don't try to control PH but rather contain it within its upper and lower limits.
I'm so thankful to the TFP Mods and all members who've answered my many questions about chemistry throughout this thread. I'm thankful that I never again have to rely on my pool store tests and trust my own test results.
I'm probably won't be posting as much because I've gained knowledge to answer most of my own questions!
Thank you TFP,
Dan