Under construction!

Good luck with your brand new being-built pool.
  1. When it's filled, most people here would recommend that you test your pool chemistry yourself
    • (and most would recommend you use a good pool-math calculator on your mobile device)
  2. Most would also recommend you use only liquid chlorine (no tablets, no granules, no powders) for sanitization
    • (keep your cyanuric acid level as low as feasible, where around 30 ppm is a good inflection point to aim for)
    • (maintain free chlorine at least 7.5% higher than the CYA, and then plus 1 or 2 ppm)
    • (maintain free chlorine at less than 7.5% of your CYA - e.g., half that - only if your phosphates are extremely low)
  3. Maintain the water's calcium saturation equilibrium within +/- 0.33 of the zero crossing point
    • (generally that means aim for calcium saturation & carbonate alkalinity to be within typical ranges)]
      • (not many people know this, but a common ratio is 1:4 alkalinity ppm to calcium ppm)
    • (keep in mind you have little control over the temperature & not much control over the pH and/or TDS)
If you don't fully understand any of those basics, don't worry as everyone here knows them inside & out (so you can read up on each of them & ask away if necessary).
 
Last edited:
Good luck with your brand new being-built pool.
  1. When it's filled, most people here would recommend that you test your pool chemistry yourself
    • (and most would recommend you use a good pool-math calculator on your mobile device)
  2. Most would also recommend you use only liquid chlorine (no tablets, no granules, no powders) for sanitization
    • (keep your cyanuric acid level as low as feasible, where around 30 ppm is a good inflection point to aim for)
    • (maintain free chlorine at least 7.5% higher than the CYA, and then plus 1 or 2 ppm)
    • (maintain free chlorine at less than 7.5% of your CYA - e.g., half that - only if your phosphates are extremely low)
      • (this eclectic algae assessment is rarely discussed but it came from either Richard Falk or Bob Lowry, as I recall)
  3. Maintain the water's calcium saturation equilibrium within +/- 0.33 of the zero crossing point
    • (generally that means aim for calcium saturation & carbonate alkalinity to be within typical ranges)]
      • (not many people know this, but a common ratio is 1:4 alkalinity ppm to calcium ppm)
    • (keep in mind you have little control over the temperature & not much control over the pH and/or TDS)
If you don't fully understand any of those basics, don't worry as everyone here knows them inside & out (so you can read up on each of them & ask away if necessary).
Thank you for this information, some I understand and some has me inspired to read more. I do plan on managing my own chemicals, so I know I have lots to learn.
 
I got a TF pro for a salt generator pool. I have thus far used it to test the hose water for calcium hardness and total alkalinity. I plan on doing a bicarb start up. Is that still what people think is best?
What plaster are you using? What does the manufacturer recommend? What does the builder recommend?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
One more thing to note 📝
When you’re filling the pool check your water meter at the beginning and the end and calculate the difference to get a better idea of your pool volume.
You may need to subtract a little for home useage. Its a once in a blue moon opportunity 👍🏻
 
  • Like
Reactions: HGen

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support