I accidentally grabbed the muriatic acid last night instead of the chlorine. I poured about 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon on accident. When I realized it, it was too late to get anything to help. I read you can neutralize it with some baking soda and added about 3 1/2 cups of it in to see if it would just save my metal heater piping from corrosion. I obviously do not want to call a Big Box store and ask for advice and be sold unnecessary stuff. I also do not want to get myself locked into a chemical battle of overdoing something one way or another. What would you guys suggest I do? It is reading a pale yellow color, I put over 100 drops in on the Acid Demand test of the pH and nothing was happening so the PH is probably extremely low.
Muriatic Acid Oopsie
- Thread starter Branbear88
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,963
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,963
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Explain exactly how you are testing TA. Water volume, and when you stop the test.
Also, confirm the reagent you are using for the pH test. Post a pic if you can.
Also, confirm the reagent you are using for the pH test. Post a pic if you can.
Last edited:
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,963
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Baking soda does nothing for pH, but it does raise TA.
Acid demand is used to figure out how much acid to add to LOWER pH. For low pH, as @Donldson indicated, use Base demand.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,963
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If we confirm you are using the right reagent and your test is in fact yellow, I would start raising pH in .4 increments with 20 Mule Team Borax. Use pool math to calculate a .4 pH increase, add that amount of borax, pump running and test 30 minutes later. Continue to raise pH until it is 7.4
I am following the instructions on my test kit! Fill tube to 20 ml, add 2 drops of R-0007, 5 drops R-0008 swirl, it turns green, one drop at a time and swirl until it turns pink. I stop when i see pink. And i see a typo from above, my TA was 60 not 80 ... sorry.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,963
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Do the test over. Use 25mL of pool water. Continue to add drops UNTIL the color does not change again. Subtract the last drop.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,697
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If your TA is measurable at 60ppm, then your pool is fine. Chances are you pH is only slightly lower than 7. It will come back up in its own if you aerate the water. If you can’t aerate then you can add some 20 Mule Team borax that @PoolStored recommend. Just use PoolMath to calculate the amount to raise it by 0.2ppm and then incrementally add that amount in batches, letting the pool pump and brush mix the water for 15-20mins. Then retest pH. If the pH is still low, add another increment.
You didn’t add a catastrophic amount of MA. It certainly dropped the pH but it is easily recoverable… no need to freak out.
You didn’t add a catastrophic amount of MA. It certainly dropped the pH but it is easily recoverable… no need to freak out.
Thank you! That is what I was looking to hear, just some confirmation. All of the rapid questions were starting to wear on me. I am trying to keep my pool in shape with the most minimal addition of chemical. I am not sure that I want to add a Borate and then start having to measure/test/repeat ... I just put fresh water in and would like to keep it that way! I am sick over what happened. I knew it wasn't a catastrophic amount but also knew that this kind of thing has never happened before!