Newbie to the Pool world, bought a house that has a pool.

From what I’m gathering,
The general consensus here is you need to follow the slam process. It has been suggested repeatedly. Like, broken record repeatedly
May I ask why you seem hesitant to follow?

It’s the method advised and followed here with excellent results.
Personally, I’m just a tfp member who has asked for advice, followed it and achieved balanced, ultra clear, properly sanitized water by doing so.

The volunteers offering advice here must be credited (and thanked imo)for sharing their time, knowledge, AND patience in helping us understand the how’s and why’s (for free).

But as stated, it’s ultimately the pool owners decision how to care for their pool.

Yes, I did superchlorinate the pool and started the slam process. The pool is in much better shape than before (the water was dark murky green, now it is mostly blue). The the pool have other issues with the equipment, etc, which gives me pause. I mostly certain appreciate all the input.
 
Well, we seem to have different opinions on the water situation, at least from a TFP perspective. While I can't say for sure what these gray spots are from, we can't rule out chemistry 100% just yet. But based on your last reply, I will offer you the following info for consideration:
- "Both combined and free chlorine are kept high". That's not good (CC) and questionable (FC). CCs should never be elevated over 0.5. If they are there's an organic overload or oxidation problem. As for FC being high, how high exactly? And compared to what CYA at the moment. If your CYA happened to be 40 for example, you could easily have an FC of 16 with no problem (SLAM level). See the FC/CYA Levels for the FC to CYA relationship.
- "Also, making sure that the pH and Total Alkalinity is optimum". What numbers exactly? Probably has no bearing on these gray spots, but the exact pH and TA would be good to know.
- "I added a quart of “Pool Mate Filter Cleaner”. We'll need to research the SDS on that one to find out what its all about. We don't recommend adding anything to sand other than water during a deep cleaning process.
- "I added CYA directly to the basket of the skimmer". Never do that. Too acidic and can easily plug your suction line. Always pre-soak the stabilizer in a sock for about 30 min then squeeze it all out.
- "I do check the pool water with the Taylor kit". IMO, that is key right there.
- "the gauge gives constant readings of about 19PSI whenever the pump is running". That seems a bit high which would be indicative or excessive organics. What is the psi after a backwash?
- "whenever I backwash the sand filter water squirts and leaks out of the sight glass". That will need to be addressed. When the system is off, air could be pulled "IN" messing with what should be an airtight plumbing system.
- "I want address the sand filter situation before adding more expensive chemicals and superchlorinating the pool again". Certainly your choice, but remember sand doesn't go bad, so unless a bad pool store chemical was added to make it bad, there's not much to do with the sand filter other than perhaps a sand deep cleaning with water.

Looking back at this thread, several seasoned members/experts here at TFP have emphasized the importance of using a proper test kit and considering the need to perform a SLAM Process to ensure any heavy organic load is killed/removed. This is not a simple pool store term of super-chlorination, but a consistent process of maintaining the proper elevated FC level that gives the free chlorine ample time to kill and remove the algae or any other product that may be in the water. We can only advise though. We can't make anyone on TFP buy a kit or employ the advice we offer, but we certainly recommend it. Before you invest too much more time in the filter, I do think you should consider these recommendations. You might be surprised of the results.
ADDENDUM, sorry I missed some of you questions.


“- "the gauge gives constant readings of about 19PSI whenever the pump is running". That seems a bit high which would be indicative or excessive organics. What is the psi after a backwash?”

=>I havent checked the PSI during backwashing because the sight glass leaks and squirts water when it is backwashing and rinsing mode. But, next time I will try to look into it. In any case, whenever the pump skimmer/md valve is turned 100% in skimmer mode the sand filter gauge readings is about 16psi. And when the pump skimmer/md valve is in the middle (50% skimmer and 50% md), the sand filters gauge readings is of about 19PSI.

“- "I want address the sand filter situation before adding more expensive chemicals and superchlorinating the pool again". Certainly your choice, but remember sand doesn't go bad, so unless a bad pool store chemical was added to make it bad, there's not much to do with the sand filter other than perhaps a sand deep cleaning with water.”

=> Yeah, I got the point. On a second though, I am not a 100% sure that it is the sand filter. Yesterday, I added water to pool with a garden hose while the pump was off and the surface of the pool did not have any thin grey spots (since the pump was off for a few hours), and a few smaller grey spots were noticed on the surface of the pool due to the turbulence created in the water with the flow of water from the garden hose.

“- "whenever I backwash the sand filter water squirts and leaks out of the sight glass". That will need to be addressed. When the system is off, air could be pulled "IN" messing with what should be an airtight plumbing system.”

=> I will double check all the connections. I could not find any type of purge valve in the sand filter.
 
My filter also stays consistently around 19-20 psi when pump is running at 3000 rpm. Even after a backwash it’s the same. There are only 2 of us that use the pool, kind of seldomly. No trees etc.
It’s been my routine to backwash once a week (pool store advice) I’ve never actually let it increase/waited to backwash
I had my Sand changed last week, (for other reasons) no change in psi
 
My filter also stays consistently around 19-20 psi when pump is running at 3000 rpm. Even after a backwash it’s the same. There are only 2 of us that use the pool, kind of seldomly. No trees etc.
It’s been my routine to backwash once a week (pool store advice) I’ve never actually let it increase/waited to backwash
I had my Sand changed last week, (for other reasons) no change in psi

Sorry for the delay in following up. I was away from home (out of the State) for about a week. Being away from my new home (with the pool) is one the hindrances I am currently facing given that the pool needs constant attention.

About a week ago, I brushed pool floor and tried to direct the dirty (that I can not properly see yet due to the murky blue water) towards the deep end of the pool . And then superchlorinated the pool again (since I would be away for a while). One thing I noticed after brushing the pool is that the the pressure went down to about 14PSI after brushing the pool’s floor. The pressure was kept at 14PSI for several hours (next day); but then, when I turned the pump again late afternoon the next day, the pressure was yet again hovering around 18 to 19PSI. Could it be something related to the main drain (at the bottom of the pool), like some dirty and debris blocking the proper flow?

Also, I went ahead and installed a smart device between the pump and the pool sub-panel. Have to check the NEC for the specifics of the clearance and distance from the rest of the equipment – will do it in the near future. The following:
POOL_MACHINERY_SMART_MODULE_INSTALLED2.jpg

That device allows me to turn the pump from afar, which a must for my situation.

In my case, the pool is surrounded by plants and trees (both nearby and larger tree from a distance).
POOL_SURROUNDED_BY_PLANTS_AND_TRESS.jpg

Tomorrow, I will check the sand in the filter. Also, will into look into properly vacuum the pool floor -- needed a coupler and extension to reach the deep end).

Thanks!
 
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I was exactly in your shoe back in 2015 when we bought a house with a pool (which we didn't want as we literally have 2 pool clubs within almost walking distance).
1. You will get alot of help here and learn - as I have
2. Things happend over days not hours - I was impatient at the beginning as I didn't know anything about pools
3. Every season is different - one season almost no liquid chlorine needed then the next gallons (all else being equal)

As for liquid chlorine, I always use pool store ones with 12.5% (not sure you can get one easily around your area) - I have used Walmart's 10% ones but ended up spending more. Never again. Also, I always dump more than necessary to eradicate algae from the beginning (and at night). I never had success with adding a gallon or two at a time over a few hours. YMMV.

If your pump is about to go, get a variable one.. Yes, initially more expensive but it will pay for itself over a season or two with the reduction of your e bill.

Good luck and you are in good hands here :)
 
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I was exactly in your shoe back in 2015 when we bought a house with a pool (which we didn't want as we literally have 2 pool clubs within almost walking distance).
1. You will get alot of help here and learn - as I have
2. Things happend over days not hours - I was impatient at the beginning as I didn't know anything about pools
3. Every season is different - one season almost no liquid chlorine needed then the next gallons (all else being equal)

As for liquid chlorine, I always use pool store ones with 12.5% (not sure you can get one easily around your area) - I have used Walmart's 10% ones but ended up spending more. Never again. Also, I always dump more than necessary to eradicate algae from the beginning (and at night). I never had success with adding a gallon or two at a time over a few hours. YMMV.

If your pump is about to go, get a variable one.. Yes, initially more expensive but it will pay for itself over a season or two with the reduction of your e bill.

Good luck and you are in good hands here :)
Yeah, it is convoluted at first; learning all that stuff (not only the pool, but also the machinery). The fact that I am not around all the time – often having to travel and stay over a week away adds to the complication. All the leaves, debris, plant stuff, etc, ended up in bottom of the pool (feeding any algae, etc). Then, you have animals that sometimes meet their fate in the pool (so far, I got dead a bird, a small rodent [maybe a mole], a juvenile rabbit). The pool simply requires too much attention in many ways. Not being around for many days can be a problem.

The pool may have between 25000 to 30000 gallons of water. Often, I am buying chlorine at a local Rural King (they have a good deal if you buy a box with four gallons) – their chlorine has 10% of hypochlorine. Menards sell a gallon with 12.5% of hypochlorine. But, Rural King is much closer to my house.

All that extra expense with chlorine can add up quickly. There must be a cheaper way to buy chlorine; like refilling a larger container, maybe? I did not find any such place where I live.

The maximum I added in a single occasion was 8 gallons. Next time, I will get bolder and add 10 gallons at once, maybe it will make a bigger difference. Once the pool is superchlorinated (between 6 to 8 gallons), I keep on adding chlorine every other day or so in order to keep the amount of free chlorine high enough. The thing is that the chlorine sanitizes and oxides the water, but if the filter is not doing its part the dead algae, etc, will stay in the water. I did not have a chance to open the filter today and try to clean the sand (or replace it, depende on its condition); will try to get it done tomorrow or the day after.

Also, when I close the main drain valve all the way; the pressure gauge on the sand filter reads about 15PSI (skimmer side is fully opened).

I bought a house with a pool, but not because of the pool. Overall, I am not into pools – but that can change. The priority was to not have a green pool, with stagnant water, and algae bloom. Once the water is clear, the idea is to put a good protective cover.

Thanks!
 
Yeah, it is convoluted at first; learning all that stuff (not only the pool, but also the machinery). The fact that I am not around all the time – often having to travel and stay over a week away adds to the complication. All the leaves, debris, plant stuff, etc, ended up in bottom of the pool (feeding any algae, etc). Then, you have animals that sometimes meet their fate in the pool (so far, I got dead a bird, a small rodent [maybe a mole], a juvenile rabbit). The pool simply requires too much attention in many ways. Not being around for many days can be a problem.

The pool may have between 25000 to 30000 gallons of water. Often, I am buying chlorine at a local Rural King (they have a good deal if you buy a box with four gallons) – their chlorine has 10% of hypochlorine. Menards sell a gallon with 12.5% of hypochlorine. But, Rural King is much closer to my house.

All that extra expense with chlorine can add up quickly. There must be a cheaper way to buy chlorine; like refilling a larger container, maybe? I did not find any such place where I live.

The maximum I added in a single occasion was 8 gallons. Next time, I will get bolder and add 10 gallons at once, maybe it will make a bigger difference. Once the pool is superchlorinated (between 6 to 8 gallons), I keep on adding chlorine every other day or so in order to keep the amount of free chlorine high enough. The thing is that the chlorine sanitizes and oxides the water, but if the filter is not doing its part the dead algae, etc, will stay in the water. I did not have a chance to open the filter today and try to clean the sand (or replace it, depende on its condition); will try to get it done tomorrow or the day after.

Also, when I close the main drain valve all the way; the pressure gauge on the sand filter reads about 15PSI (skimmer side is fully opened).

I bought a house with a pool, but not because of the pool. Overall, I am not into pools – but that can change. The priority was to not have a green pool, with stagnant water, and algae bloom. Once the water is clear, the idea is to put a good protective cover.

Thanks!
You’re failing on the Maintain part of Shock Level And Maintain. We aren’t doing some sort of pool store “super chlorination” that is a one time thing. The issue here is not your filter, it’s that you aren’t maintaining a high enough chlorine level long enough to kill the organics in your pool. Putting 6 gallons in a swamp and then adding another gallon “every other day or so” is doing NOTHING to clear your pool up or make your life easier. You need to SLAM and stick with it diligently. Pump running 24/7, brushing your walls, testing and adding the correct amount of chlorine to bring your FC up to SLAM levels as often as possible. Every 2 hours if you can. With the schedule you have now you’re doing nothing but allowing the algae to grow back between your additions.

You need to trust us that your life taking care of this pool will be immensely easier and cheaper if you follow our advice instead of continuing to go off script again and again.

Throw your strips in the Dang garbage where they belong, use a good test kit, and follow the advice that’s being given to you by the volunteers here who don’t get a thing out of this other than the satisfaction of knowing they helped you make your life easier and your pool better.
 
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You’re failing on the Maintain part of Shock Level And Maintain. We aren’t doing some sort of pool store “super chlorination” that is a one time thing. The issue here is not your filter, it’s that you aren’t maintaining a high enough chlorine level long enough to kill the organics in your pool. Putting 6 gallons in a swamp and then adding another gallon “every other day or so” is doing NOTHING to clear your pool up or make your life easier. You need to SLAM and stick with it diligently. Pump running 24/7, brushing your walls, testing and adding the correct amount of chlorine to bring your FC up to SLAM levels as often as possible. Every 2 hours if you can. With the schedule you have now you’re doing nothing but allowing the algae to grow back between your additions.

You need to trust us that your life taking care of this pool will be immensely easier and cheaper if you follow our advice instead of continuing to go off script again and again.

Throw your strips in the Dang garbage where they belong, use a good test kit, and follow the advice that’s being given to you by the volunteers here who don’t get a thing out of this other than the satisfaction of knowing they helped you make your life easier and your pool better.


Yeah, I am not being diligent as I should. One such reason is that I am not always around and have sometime I travel for a week or so.

Travelling often (soon I will be done with that) is a problem too. For instance, if an animal dies in the pool and the corpse stays in the pool for a week… So, I wonder if it is worth the effort. I got a floater and I am using two or three 3” chlorine tablets (when I away).

I did superchlorinate the pool yesterday night again. But before superchlorinating it, I did run some tests with the taylor kit. PH was about 7.4. Total Alkalinity was high at about 160ppm (not clear how higher alkalinity affects superchlorination and the pH has been stable for weeks now); in any case, I added a small amount (a pint or two) of muriatic acid to the pool.

The CYA, though, is high. I did test the CYA with the Taylor kit (the dot test). At 100 mark, I could barely see the dot (if I did not know a dot was there initially, I would not know or see it). At 75, could not see a dot at all. So, I assuming that the CYA is about 75ppm.

A high CYA would require more chlorine which is a problem, considering how much chlorine one has to use to slam the pool. I did backwash and rinse a couple of time yesterday with the hose adding water to the pool, but it probably did not make much of a difference. How much water should be removed in percentage terms in order to decrease the CYA?

Thanks!
 
Again, you are going through what I have gone through, including traveling as I used to travel Sun / Mon - Thu / Fri almost every week in the past. I was mostly worried about the water level (evaporation or a major rain storm) as chemicals can be balances later.

If not already, get one of those apps such as Pool Pal, Pool Math, etc which does help with the amount of chemicals.

Luckily, we do have a pool store (but 30 mins away while Walmart is less than 10, and Leslie's around 20) and I pick up 2-3 5 gallon jugs of 12.5% chlorine time-to-time.

As for the algae "dust," I try to brush often and sometimes (when I am lazy), I shut all the valves except for the main and try to have the main suck up as much dust as possible.
 
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Again, you are going through what I have gone through, including traveling as I used to travel Sun / Mon - Thu / Fri almost every week in the past. I was mostly worried about the water level (evaporation or a major rain storm) as chemicals can be balances later.

If not already, get one of those apps such as Pool Pal, Pool Math, etc which does help with the amount of chemicals.

Luckily, we do have a pool store (but 30 mins away while Walmart is less than 10, and Leslie's around 20) and I pick up 2-3 5 gallon jugs of 12.5% chlorine time-to-time.

As for the algae "dust," I try to brush often and sometimes (when I am lazy), I shut all the valves except for the main and try to have the main suck up as much dust as possible.


Good to know that you can see things from my perspective, have gone through a similar situation. Hopefully, my frequent need to travel will end at some point this year.

Last two or three days, I tried to dedicate mostly to that pool issue. All in all, I bought 24 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine (two batches of 12 gallons, each). Two days ago, I added 8 gallons at once during the evening. Following up, added 3 gallons in the morning of the next day, one more in the afternoon. Bought more chlorine late afternoon and kept on adding it throughout the evening. And yesterday night, added more 8 gallons. Also, I brushed the walls and the floor yesterday night and the day before. Pump was running all the time. No much in terms results there, an almost abysmal failure.

When the pool was nasty green with algae bloom and whatnot. Superchlorinating and more chlorine (two gallons the next day morning) had great effect -- it went from nasty and murky green with algae bloom to a nice blue (however cloudy the water still was).

Largely, it was my fault. Since I knew that the CYA was very high, at about 75ppm; or, at least, that seems likely the reason. I am crunching for time and have to travel tomorrow, and will be away for about 10 days and thus was trying to get that thing done once for all (in hindsight it was a stupid move).

Reason for what the CYA was so high? At first (about 2 months ago), the CYA was very low (measured using Taylors kit [could see the dot no much what]. I read about the subject in more than one source, and knew that one should use skimmer socks in order deploy the CYA. Ordered the socks online and bought few 1lbs CYA bags just in case (also, it had a good price at the time). The socks took several days to arrive and while reading the instructions that came on the CYA packaging, it was noted that it simply did not mention the need for socks or anything of the sorts; so, I assumed in that for this particular CYA brand (due to size of the pellets or chemistry), the use of the socks weren’t required – after all, the manufacturer (or supplier) of that particular product should know better.

By adding the CYA directly to the skimmer with no socks, it seems that most of the CYA got stuck at the sand filter instead of affecting the water which then made me believe that the CYA in the water was extremely low, given that adding few pounds of CYA did not even make a dent. Given that the CYA seemed so low, it made no sense to waste so much of the test kit testing it all the time. End result, CYA likely was released from the sand filter slow, and now it very high. The deal now is to slowly deplete the water of the pool and replace it with new water. But, CYA should wear off over time.

In any case, have to travel tomorrow and will be away for about ten days. So, I went ahead and did perform the slam anyways (with high CYA). Could have lower the pool water and add more water to replenish it, but that on itself posed another problem: to where I am going to dump all that water? Even though the drain is pointing to my front yard, lots of water bleeds to the sidewalk and the curb in the street by simply backwashing the sand filter for 2 minutes and rinsing it for 30 seconds.

I believe that the high level of CYA rendered the chlorine much less effective. There has been some improvement though, I can see the floor/bottom of the of pool on its shallow end – not on its deep end or in-between.

Today morning (around 9am) I added the last two gallons of liquid chlorine to the pool. Not sure if it is worth buything more given the circumtances.

Also bought two gallons of chlorox algaecide+clarifier. It seems to be ok to use when the pool is superchlorinated, but wouldn't the high level of CYA render it less effective as well?

On another thing… often, when I brush the deep end of the pool the pressure gauge on the sand filter goes down substancially – from 19PSI to 13 or 14PSI. And afterwards, often, the pressure stays at 13, 14 or 15PSI for several hours. Ironically, if I backwash it the pressure often goes back to 19PSI short afterwards.

Thanks!
 
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You’re failing on the Maintain part of Shock Level And Maintain. We aren’t doing some sort of pool store “super chlorination” that is a one time thing. The issue here is not your filter, it’s that you aren’t maintaining a high enough chlorine level long enough to kill the organics in your pool. Putting 6 gallons in a swamp and then adding another gallon “every other day or so” is doing NOTHING to clear your pool up or make your life easier. You need to SLAM and stick with it diligently. Pump running 24/7, brushing your walls, testing and adding the correct amount of chlorine to bring your FC up to SLAM levels as often as possible. Every 2 hours if you can. With the schedule you have now you’re doing nothing but allowing the algae to grow back between your additions.

You need to trust us that your life taking care of this pool will be immensely easier and cheaper if you follow our advice instead of continuing to go off script again and again.

Throw your strips in the Dang garbage where they belong, use a good test kit, and follow the advice that’s being given to you by the volunteers here who don’t get a thing out of this other than the satisfaction of knowing they helped you make your life easier and your pool better.



Yeah, the test strips have defficiencies; especially when using them to measure CYA. In that regard, the liquid (especially Taylor) are much better.

I did follow up adding lots of liquid chlorine (8 gallons at nigh, 3 extra gallons next day in the morning, more in the afternoon and much more in the evening of the next day). But, I believe that the chlorine was rendered much less effective due to the high level of CYA (for more on that, see my last post).

The pump has been running 24 hours for the last 5 days.

Thanks!
 
My honest opinion is, you just don’t have the time to dedicate to your pool with so much travel etc.

is there someone else in your household, family, or neighborhood that could take over the pool responsibilities?

Even if you get it clear being gone for 10 days you’re likely to come home to more problems
 
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What is your current cya ?
I measured it two days ago, and it was about 75ppm.

I did cut my trip short and returned yesterday and noticed substantial improvements in the water, so I kept on adding more chlorine. The water is very clear now, but there are lots of debris -- mostly tree (especially pine needles) and plant debris around the deep end of the pool.

Did start to vacuuming the pool yesterday evening. The first round of vacuuming was good (lots of pine needles in the skimmer gasket), but then it hit some roadblock. There are few rocks in the bottom of the pool (river rocks landscape surrounding the pool deck), and the some rocks may have clogged the vacuum hose -- I used the return jets to inject water directly into the vacuum house and very little water came from the other end of the hoses (two hoses connected with a coupler).
 
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Please don't forget to vacuum to waste. It does help especially during the opening. Keep us posted as we are all here to help each other :)
It looks like another pool now! Only issue are the debris at the bottom of the pool.

POOL_CLEAR_WATER_FLOOR_DEBRIS_07_06_2024.jpg
Have had issues with the vacuum yesterday night. The first round of vacuuming was good (lots of pine needles in the skimmer gasket), but then it hit some roadblock. There few rocks in the bottom of the pool (river rocks landscape surrounding the pool deck), and the some rocks may have clogged the vacuum hose -- I used the return jets to inject water directly into the vacuum house and very little water came from the other end of the hoses (two hoses connected with a coupler).


The problem with vacuuming it to waste is that it is going to dump tons of water in the front yard which then will bleed lots of water in the street, unless I vacuum very quickly -- I will give it a try (being able to turn the pump on and off from my phone is very helpful in this type of situation). I plan on deep cleaning the filter soon (or maybe replace the sand altogether). Maybe a sock in the skimmer basket would help to catch some of the pine needs that otherwise could go through. I am also checking and cleaning the pump basket whenever needed.
 
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My honest opinion is, you just don’t have the time to dedicate to your pool with so much travel etc.

is there someone else in your household, family, or neighborhood that could take over the pool responsibilities?

Even if you get it clear being gone for 10 days you’re likely to come home to more problems


Yeah, that a conundrum for me while dealing with the pool. Previously, the pool was in really bad shape -- no water circulation, no chemical added for a long time, not cleaning, nothing. My goal at first was to make it safe from the public safety stand point. A murky green water with algae bloom was also a public safety issue; so I was contented when it turned blue, however cloudy the water still was.

I will not be around to skim the pool, check the water, add chemicals, etc, for many days whenever I am out of the State. There is a solar cover next to the pool (I did not try it yet) that may help with water evaporation and some tree debris. Also, I will add some animal ramp, so that animal who enter the pool may escape and don´t die in the pool. Lastly, will also deploy a float with 3" chlorinating tablets.

No, unfortunately, there is nobody who knows enough about pools whom I know well to ask to look after the pool.
 

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