Dead Pentair IC40?

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S

stguitar

Member
Jun 8, 2024
16
Georgia
Pool Size
7500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey guys!

Recently found the forums and went through the SLAM process to solve an Algae problem. All good now with that it seems.

However, yesterday, I noticed my FC level was really low, and then realized that my IC40 was flashing the 'cell' light. We got the pool (and the unit) in the fall of 2021, so I guess we're close to the life of the unit? I thought I would share what I am seeing here before I drop $1,500 on a replacement.

I should also start with what led to my original Algae problem. We returned home from a trip, and I noticed that my SWG control board thing was not working - it would just trip the breaker immediately. I bought an off brand replacement off amazon, and that seemed to work fine. For the next 3-4 weeks, all seemed ok with the SWG, but I did end up going through a week of SLAM or so. I wanted to share this thread of info on the off-chance its related, but im assuming it isnt.

Today, I took out the SWG, and it did indeed have a fair bit of buildup in it, so I gave it 2 rounds of a muriatic acid bath (4:1 ratio; and I have the end cap). The second bath didn't foam/bubble much, but I could still see a few pieces and wanted to be sure to get them all. I reinstalled it, and it is still flashing the 'cell' light.

Here is some data about what I see right now with the SWG:
  • Today, and for a few days before the flashing cell light and seemingly no output, my IC40 was reading a much higher salt ppm than manual test. My Taylor 2000k-SALT was reading around 2400-2600, while the IC40 was reporting 3600+. It now reads 4200!
  • My CYA is currently about 75
  • My pH is really high (prob 8.2, but hard to read with my kit at this point) and before the cell failed it was 7.8 or so, I was preparing to add some MA to lower to 7.2. As a result, my TA is way up to 150! I don't think it was like this very long, but it's been elevated since the SLAM I suppose.
  • The Salt Level and Flow lights on the SWG are solid green, and not flashing or any other color.
  • I have hardly ever used the 'super chlorinator' feature
  • When I do the diagnostics mode on the SWG, all the lights do their little dance, and then it locks in with a solid green 'CELL' light, and says 60%, so I guess its 6,000 out of 10,000 hours.
Based on the data, and what I have done with the cleaning, is it something that this group thinks is signaling it to be dead? I am wondering if it needs more time to reset after the cleaning or something silly like that?

At this point, since it's not producing chlorine, I am just putting liquid chlorine in daily with the unit set to 0% output.

Thanks for any advice in advance!
 
A follow-on question I will have is that we're going to be gone for a week or so. If I know my FC Demand is roughly 2.2ppm or so, could I just get the FC level up high enough to reduce 2.2ppm per day we're gone so that when we get back it will still be in good shape and not have another algae problem, or is that not a good idea for equipment and things?
 
If the cell is clean of calcium, and the CELL light is flashing, the cell is dead.

You can raise the FC to SLAM level. For a week I would float two 8 oz trichlor pucks in a floating dispenser as well.
 
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Reactions: Jimrahbe
ah ok, I didn't think of a floating chlorinator thing... having a salt pool I have never used those so it didn't occur to me. I didn't realize I could do that!

So you are suggesting that instead of raising my FC to SLAM level? it may be closer to 2 weeks that we're gone if that changes the calculus. We're not entirely sure when we will return yet.
 
st,

It matters little what else is going on, or what the diagnostics say...

If the cell light is flashing, when the cell is clean. Then the cell is dead.

If you recycle power the cell light may go back to being green for a day or so, but very soon it will start flashing again.

Time to buy a new cell..

Sorry for your loss,

Jim R.
 
stguitar said:
So you are suggesting that instead of raising my FC to SLAM level? it may be closer to 2 weeks that we're gone if that changes the calculus. We're not entirely sure when we will return yet.
Click to expand...
Do both. SLAM level FC and float the trichlor.

What is your TA?
 
Shucks... I was hoping I would get both you guy's eyes on this. Really appreciate it.

OK. So get it back up to SLAM FC level before I leave, and then float 2 of these?

HTH Pool Care Tablet Chlorinating Chemicals 8 oz - Ace Hardware

About This Item Protect your swimming pool against bacteria algae and other organisms and enjoy clean clear pool water with these convenient one dose tabs. Sun protected for longer chlorine life HTH 3 inch Chlorine Tabs Advanced dissolve slowly and last up to one week. HTH Chlorine Tabs Advanced...
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
 

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No additives. The one you posted had algaecide and clarifier. Normally they will say 99% trichlor.
 
My neighbor bought an Apex cell online to replace an IC40. It was a plug and play replacement and way cheaper than the $1200 Pentair.
 
Just beware the Easytouch will not control a non-OEM SWCG. It will turn it on and off. That is it.
 
Yea, I saw some comments about 3rd party ones and had been thinking about it. I think I am currently in the camp of wanting the Easytouch compatibility enough to keep me on Pentair, but I appreciate the suggestion.
 
hey yall... thanks for all the help here. The suggestions on the chlorine tabs worked great, and I have since gotten my new SWG and replaced the old one and things are all good.

Do you have a recommended way to dispose of the old unit? Should I hang on to it for any reason?

Since I self installed the IC40, is there a way to still get the extended warranty? The paperwork that came with the unit suggests it has to be installed by "a qualified pool professional".
 
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