Several issues - salt vs chlorine?

Sitting pretty.



Skip the FC side of the block test and only use the powder test for FC


TC is a junk stat. Report the FC and CC. 5+3=8 and 8+0=8 tell two entirely different stories. The answer being 8 means bupkiss.
I wrote above FC = 4,5 and CC = 0,5
Thanks
 
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Ok but then the chlorine level i reported are ok?
No. Add to 8 as directed above, give it some time to mix, confirm the level whether or not you hit target (a 7 is fine too), then test in the AM before the sun is up.

If you're algae free then we move on to everything else. If not, then it's SLAM Process time.
 
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Hi all, last night we had a huge storm so i did not add liquid chlorine.
However this am i still did test the FC level and it is at 3.
I am therefore assuming there is some chlorine consumption over night.
Should i add enough LC to get to the 8 level and test tomorrow or just keep slaming?
It has been between 3 and 4/4,5 seems within good range
 
Hi all, last night we had a huge storm so i did not add liquid chlorine.
However this am i still did test the FC level and it is at 3.
I am therefore assuming there is some chlorine consumption over night.
Should i add enough LC to get to the 8 level and test tomorrow or just keep slaming?
It has been between 3 and 4/4,5 seems within good range
Your cya is 80 - your fc should never drop below 4ppm lest algae will grow - you should target 6-11ppm fc to ensure that you don’t broach minimum no matter what arises.
I suggest you raise fc to target levels with liquid chlorine & do an oclt tonight before calling it good & proceeding with normal maintenance levels.

IMG_0527.jpeg
 
Ok. Is it possible that chlorine goes down for other reasons rather than algae? I am asking because in discussing the issues with my pool guy, he keeps insisting that the "browning" we had last year and partially this year is not due to algae 100% but to something else he cannot figure out. Now, i will most probably change him but nevertheless what are your thoughts on it?
Thanks
 
Ok. Is it possible that chlorine goes down for other reasons rather than algae?
Not overnight, with no bather load / swimmer residuals.


he keeps insisting that the "browning" we had last year and partially this year is not due to algae
I just reread the thread and didn't see an explanation, or missed it while scrolling.

Are you talking about the water or the pool surfaces ?
 

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Not overnight, with no bather load / swimmer residuals.



I just reread the thread and didn't see an explanation, or missed it while scrolling.

Are you talking about the water or the pool surfaces ?

2 years ago we had water that kept turning brown. I let my pool guy deal with it but it was a disaster of a season. He kept saying it was iron.

Last year things improved but liner got all stained. Water was clear thought so we kind of left it.

This year we read a lot about it and decided to use jacks magic. Liner got cleaned immediately. We asked him to follow the process and dont shock pool etc. until water got cloudy. I shocked it turned green immediately and i started to treat it as suggested here. He has been not much involved and kept saying browning will come back....today pool is perfect, crystal clear water, just losing a bit of chlorine as reported. He keeps saying algae has nothing to do with it, i keep slaming etc but things today are WAY better, as a matter of fact pool looks perfect. Hence why i am asking if anything else rather than algae can lower the chlorine as reported and as he is saying...
 
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My water tests negative for metal btw. So in my view what makes chlorine going down is algae always did. I just think he screwed up something.
And we did sequestran.
 
My water tests negative for metal btw.
Their metals tests have a 0.3 variance at 0.3, per them, so basically anything 0 to 0.6 is a question mark. A 0.2 may test a 0.5 and vice versa.
So in my view what makes chlorine going down is algae always did
Swimmer load, UV, algae and possibly a little from certain environmental debris blowing in deplete FC.
 
Their metals tests have a 0.3 variance at 0.3, per them, so basically anything 0 to 0.6 is a question mark. A 0.2 may test a 0.5 and vice versa.

Swimmer load, UV, algae and possibly a little from certain environmental debris blowing in deplete FC.
Yeah metal alway either 0.0 or 0.1.
I'll keep slamimg and keep you posted!
 
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