Hayward SWG low salt readings

[3bikesrfun]

I have a Hayward Aquarite T-3 SWG that had been reading low salt. The cell was 7 years old, so I replaced it with another T-3. I kept getting low readings and added salt. I finally brought a sample in and found out I was at 4400 ppm. I would reset the control and when I went to get instant salt reading, it would drop to about 2000 ppm. Readings on panel:
2000ppm
89’F
32.1v
0 amps
I opened up the panel and checked the thermistor, no defect observed.
Thermistor voltage matched the display voltage. The temp sensor resistance matched the temperature chart.
I reset the instant salt reading and immediately locked the reading when the relay clicked at 3800ppm. It will generate for a while, then over time the salt reading drops and the check salt light comes on and the salt generator stops producing. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome (officially) to TFP with your first post after about six years! I use a different cell, but when mine is in generating mode, I see results for all 3 parameters (salinity, volt, and amps). They go to zero when the cell is in its rest cycle. Interesting you are showing zero amps. I'm also concerned about the salt testing. Sounds like you took it to a pool store. While the salt test "shouldn't" be terribly difficult, you can almost never trust store testing. I always test my own salt level with a Taylor K-1766 before I make any assumptions about the cell itself.

I'm sure others will reply shortly. Hang tight.

 

[Mdragger88]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
• Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

 

[3bikesrfun]

I did buy that test kit and checked it, 4200 ppm

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

this

I reset the instant salt reading and immediately locked the reading when the relay clicked at 3800ppm. It will generate for a while, then over time the salt reading drops and the check salt light comes on and the salt generator stops producing. Anyone have any ideas?

Typical behavior of a depleted t-cell. Call in for a warranty.

 

[3bikesrfun]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
• Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

Switch off
4600 ppm
93’f
31.7
0.00
50%
0
Al-0
R 1.59
T-3

Auto
4600
89’f
26.2
6.34
50%
-1900

Off then on
4600
87
26.2
6.34
50%
-1900
When I got back to the salt reading, it dropped to 3300

 

[3bikesrfun]

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Auto
4600
89’f
26.2
6.34
50%
-1900

Off then on
4600
87
26.2
6.34
50%
-1900
When I got back to the salt reading, it dropped to 3300

The volts and amps are the characteristics of the T-15 cell.

 

[3bikesrfun]

Just an update. I changed the t setting to t-5 instead of t-3 and now I’m getting readings that match my salt level (Taylor test kit) and the controller has been staying stable this past week. Also the other readings are within spec (volts, amps).
Anyone tell me why?

 

[Texas Splash]

Anyone tell me why?

Maybe we can call on @JamesW for a clue.

 

[JamesW]

I’m getting readings that match my salt level (Taylor test kit)

Also the other readings are within spec (volts, amps).

When you talk about readings, you need to post the actual numbers.

Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

 

[3bikesrfun]

Auto-off
3900
92
31.3
0.00
48%
Al 0
R 1.59
T-5

System on
3900
91
26.5
5.27
48%
-4000

After 2 minutes
3900
90
26.3
5.41
48%
-4100

 

[JamesW]

Can you show the cell label?

For salinity, I never rely on a single salinity test.

I would want at least 3 different reliable tests that are all within about 200 to 300 ppm of each other before I felt that I was confident in the salinity level.

 

[JamesW]

I’m getting readings that match my salt level (Taylor test kit)

What is the actual number you are getting?

Can you get at least 2 more reliable tests for comparison?

 

[3bikesrfun]

Taylor test was 4200 last week. It has since rained so it might have gone down. I can test again. The cell label is at top of post.

 

[JamesW]

The label that shows the cell size.

 

[JamesW]

Can you get at least 2 more reliable tests for comparison?

Two different independent tests.

 

[3bikesrfun]

 

[JamesW]

Taylor test was 4200 last week.

Maybe your test is off.

For salinity, I never rely on a single salinity test.

I would want at least 3 different reliable tests that are all within about 200 to 300 ppm of each other before I felt that I was confident in the salinity level.

 

[JamesW]

The T-5 should produce about 1.4 times as much chlorine as a T-3.

So, if the cell is T-3 and the setting is T-5, then the salinity reading should be too low by 1.4 times.

If the reading is 4,000, then that indicates that the actual salinity is 5,600 ppm.

Aquarite Cell Plates.

Here are the dimensions of the Hayward plates.

T-15 has 13 Titanium Plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 1.47 lbs/day.

T-9 has 13 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.98 lbs/day.

T-5 has 7 Titanium plate, 150 x 63mm. Produces 0.735 lbs/day.

T-3 has 7 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.53 lbs/day.