Hayward pump overheating and shutting down

[kjfin]

I have a Hayward 3/4 hp single speed pump, model SP1605Z1M that is getting hot and shutting itself off. Impeller part number is SP2605-C. This motor has been doing this all of this year (and maybe even longer but never noticed). Here's what I have done so far. I replaced the front seal yesterday with US seal PS-3868. Sand filter has been cleaned and even deep cleaned. Impeller and diffuser area spotless. Bearing shaft looks great, no sign of any water leaks. Shaft spins freely. Took motor apart for a test run without the wet end attached last night for about 30 minutes or so and motor cooled drastically. Only ran about 145 degrees as compared to always around the 190 at where it typically will cutoff. Haven't verified any voltages or amps as of yet. I don't have the recommended 10 inches or so of straight pipe coming into the pump though. Mine is way shorter from the install. Should I change that? Change impeller? The only thing I did over the spring was added more sand to the filter because it was only about 1/2 full from the builder so I added 100 pounds more. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it because I don't know if the pump acted up last year and maybe I never noticed it.

Thank you

 

[kjfin]

I have also verified all electrical connections at the pump and the wall switch to be tight.

 

[1poolman1]

I have a Hayward 3/4 hp single speed pump, model SP1605Z1M that is getting hot and shutting itself off. Impeller part number is SP2605-C. This motor has been doing this all of this year (and maybe even longer but never noticed). Here's what I have done so far. I replaced the front seal yesterday with US seal PS-3868. Sand filter has been cleaned and even deep cleaned. Impeller and diffuser area spotless. Bearing shaft looks great, no sign of any water leaks. Shaft spins freely. Took motor apart for a test run without the wet end attached last night for about 30 minutes or so and motor cooled drastically. Only ran about 145 degrees as compared to always around the 190 at where it typically will cutoff. Haven't verified any voltages or amps as of yet. I don't have the recommended 10 inches or so of straight pipe coming into the pump though. Mine is way shorter from the install. Should I change that? Change impeller? The only thing I did over the spring was added more sand to the filter because it was only about 1/2 full from the builder so I added 100 pounds more. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it because I don't know if the pump acted up last year and maybe I never noticed it.

Thank you

With the motor running do you feel warm/hot air blowing out the rear vents? If not the fan has broken and the easiest thing to do is replace the motor. You do need to check the amp draw as well. Have seen many motors that run well on a bench but won't run when they have to actually do any work.

How much sand is actually in the filter (not that it has anything to do with a motor overheating)? That filter requires 300# dry sand when filled and it is only about 2/3 up the tank, right about where the cylinder starts to get to the spherical part of the tank, with the proper amount. The amount of "freeboard," the area of "no sand" above the sand bed, is important. After about 5 years another 50# is usually needed. Too much sand is almost as bad as too little as far as filter performance is concerned.

 

[kjfin]

We have an electrician coming this week to check the voltage and amp draw for me. As for the fan, all the vents are clear, front and rear. I also actually watched the fan spinning last night once I had the motor separated from the wet end. As far as the sand, I am even a little below the 2/3 mark, several inches below the curved area.

 

[1poolman1]

We have an electrician coming this week to check the voltage and amp draw for me. As for the fan, all the vents are clear, front and rear. I also actually watched the fan spinning last night once I had the motor separated from the wet end. As far as the sand, I am even a little below the 2/3 mark, several inches below the curved area.

The only way to truly know if there is the correct amount of sand in the tank is to start over with a fresh fill. But, if it works for you go with it, pools are strange beasts.

 

[kjfin]

@JamesW ....do you have any ideas on this? Thank you

 

[kjfin]

Update...pump rewired tonight from 115 to 230 with a new 20 amp GFCI breaker at the panel. Pump is getting 242v and drawing 5.1 amps on each leg of the 230. Pump is still getting hot. We even tried to run the filter on recirculate to bypass the sand and that did not help either.

 

[1poolman1]

Update...pump rewired tonight from 115 to 230 with a new 20 amp GFCI breaker at the panel. Pump is getting 242v and drawing 5.1 amps on each leg of the 230. Pump is still getting hot. We even tried to run the filter on recirculate to bypass the sand and that did not help either.

New motor time. Sometimes that is the only repair.