Need help with cloudy pool

NewPoolLI

Active member
Jul 11, 2022
27
New York
Hi everyone, I need some assistance with clearing up my pool after opening it.

I have 22,000 Gallon Vinyl Pool, Sand Filter

1.When I first opened the pool on June 2nd, the water was green. Now, it's cloudy.
2.I tested the water on Sunday, June 9th, and got the following results:
  • FC: 14
  • pH: 7.2
  • Total Alkalinity: 50
  • Calcium: 70
  • CYA: 40
  • Pool pump is running 18 hours a day.
3.There's a layer on the pool water that looks like grease.
4.I've been adding a gallon of liquid chlorine every day.
5.I haven't really cleaned the pool depth because I can't see the bottom.
6.The attached image was taken today, June 12th.
7.I'm not sure if the issue is due to adding too much antifreeze when closing the pool.
8.The pool has been cloudy since June 9th.

Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!
 

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It's important to follow the SLAM Process page carefully. It will reinforce all the things you need to do each day. For example, your FC level should be 16 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You should also sweep, brush, and/or scoop all areas of the pool, even the areas that are difficult to see. Any junk remaining in there will slow the SLAM dramatically.
 
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Hi,

Thank you for your prompt response. I followed the SLAM process, but the water is still cloudy—although it’s improving slightly, the progress is very slow. Do you think the issue could be with my sand filter? If so, could you advise me on how to clean it?

Thanks,
 
I followed the SLAM process, but the water is still cloudy—although it’s improving slightly, the progress is very slow.
The process can feel slow. Stick with it. This just means you should still be maintaining the SLAM FC level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria - clear water being one of those criteria. That's very important, otherwise the SLAM Process is not complete.

How old is the filter and/or sand in it? Sounds like you've never opened it yet correct?
 
This is the third year I’ve owned the pool. When I opened it last year, it cleared up in about a week or less. This year, however, I've been cleaning it for over two weeks, and while the water is clearing, it’s happening much more slowly than before. To my knowledge, the sand filter hasn't been opened or maintained in the past 6-7 years. Here’s an image of the sand filter, which I believe is at least 10 years old.
 

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Okay, so here's what I would recommend since you confirmed the filter hasn't really been touched in quite some time. We know that sand filters can lose sand slowly over x-amount of years. We also know sand doesn't just go bad unless someone in the past added a pool store product to comprise its integrity like floc or clarifier. So what I would say to you is this:
1 - Continue to maintain the elevated SLAM FC level.
2 - Open that filter and inspect the sand. Fortunately you have unions so you don't have to cut plumbing. But keep in mind a couple things when opening the filter. First, the MPV may be stuck on that collar. Be careful to help wiggle it loose if you can. Also, the MPV may be stuck to the center stand pipe inside. Not much you can do if that happens as it will lift the pipe up (with laterals) a bit. This may/may not happen, just be ready either way.

Once you have the filter open, if the sand looks good and not gummy or solid like concrete, then you should be good. Perhaps "carefully" slip a garden hose near the bottom to do a deep clean. Then top-off the sand if it's low as some of it probably went out to waste over the years. If the center pipe lifted during opening, well, then you're "in it to win it" as they say. Just pull everything out, inspect, clean, and replace once you're done. If the sand isn't messed up, you can reuse it.

Does that all make sense?
 
Hi all,

I'm experiencing cloudy water this year when opening up the pool. Despite following the SLAM process, I'm having a hard time clearing the water. Last year, it took less than a week, but now it's been over two weeks and the water is still cloudy. I suspect there might be an issue with the filter, or could it be something else like the pump?

1. Should I add DE to the sand filter or deep clean it first?
2. Tutorial on how to add DE to sand filter will be greatly appreciated.
3. I plan to change to new equipment next year, so I'm looking for the most cost-effective solution to get through this summer.
Deep Clean Sand Filter - Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter - I will be following this process if I am going to deep clean sand filter.

Image of the sand filter attached.

Thanks for your advice!
 

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Okay, so here's what I would recommend since you confirmed the filter hasn't really been touched in quite some time. We know that sand filters can lose sand slowly over x-amount of years. We also know sand doesn't just go bad unless someone in the past added a pool store product to comprise its integrity like floc or clarifier. So what I would say to you is this:
1 - Continue to maintain the elevated SLAM FC level.
2 - Open that filter and inspect the sand. Fortunately you have unions so you don't have to cut plumbing. But keep in mind a couple things when opening the filter. First, the MPV may be stuck on that collar. Be careful to help wiggle it loose if you can. Also, the MPV may be stuck to the center stand pipe inside. Not much you can do if that happens as it will lift the pipe up (with laterals) a bit. This may/may not happen, just be ready either way.

Once you have the filter open, if the sand looks good and not gummy or solid like concrete, then you should be good. Perhaps "carefully" slip a garden hose near the bottom to do a deep clean. Then top-off the sand if it's low as some of it probably went out to waste over the years. If the center pipe lifted during opening, well, then you're "in it to win it" as they say. Just pull everything out, inspect, clean, and replace once you're done. If the sand isn't messed up, you can reuse it.

Does that all make sense?
Thank you for the detailed instructions.

Do you recommend adding DE to the sand filter before deep cleaning it?
If I find that I'm missing sand, will this sand work for a Amazon.com , or you have any recommendation?

Thank you again for your assistance.
 

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Paradoxically, a dirty filter will usually filter better than a clean one (providing the pressure doesn't get too high). Unless you have channels in the sand, I'd just add the DE and see if that helps (not too much or your pressure will shoot up quickly). Add 1/2 to 1 cup of DE into the skimmer.
Did you check the CYA in getting up to SLAM chlorine concentrations?
 
No. Let's rule out everything else first.


That should be fine. I don't recall any problems with the brand.
Hi,

I have a few more questions that I hope you can help with.

How can I tell if the sand level is low?
How much sand should I add?
Yesterday, I backwashed 3 times for 5 minutes each and rinsed for 30 seconds between each backwash. Today, I noticed that my backwash line is full of water. Is this normal? Usually, the backwash line is empty after backwashing. Please see the attached image circled in red.
Thanks.
 

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Your backwash line should not have water running through it unless you are in backwash, rinse, or waste modes. If water is going through that line while on filter or recirculate, the spider gasket or key diverter within the MPV is in question.

Sand level. Over time, small amounts of sand are expected to flow out to waste. Over several seasons, you can expected to add a little more sand. While the filter probably states how much sand it requires when full, it may not have markings inside to specify a height once already in use. But as a broad general rule, the vessel should be about 2/3 full or in the vicinity to where the vessel begins to curve towards the top. That might somewhere around 6-12 inches below the top of the center standpipe. If the sand is something like half way or less, you will need a bit more sand.
 
Your backwash line should not have water running through it unless you are in backwash, rinse, or waste modes. If water is going through that line while on filter or recirculate, the spider gasket or key diverter within the MPV is in question.

Sand level. Over time, small amounts of sand are expected to flow out to waste. Over several seasons, you can expected to add a little more sand. While the filter probably states how much sand it requires when full, it may not have markings inside to specify a height once already in use. But as a broad general rule, the vessel should be about 2/3 full or in the vicinity to where the vessel begins to curve towards the top. That might somewhere around 6-12 inches below the top of the center standpipe. If the sand is something like half way or less, you will need a bit more sand.
Thank you very much for all the detailed assistance.

I successfully removed and deep cleaned the filter. After deep cleaning it for about 45 minutes, the water is still cloudy (there are still spots where, when I move the hose, a mist of cloudy water comes up). Should I keep deep cleaning, or is this sufficient?

I plan to add some extra sand later and replace the key diverter (I suspect it might be too old and causing the filter to leak into the waste line).

Please advise if I should continue with the deep cleaning of the sand filter.
Thank you.
 
Please advise if I should continue with the deep cleaning of the sand filter.
Good morning. Sorry for the delay as I was caught up on projects myself. :hammer: By now you may be done, but I would've said since you're in there, might as well be sure and continue until you feel satisfied with the results.
 
Good morning. Sorry for the delay as I was caught up on projects myself. :hammer: By now you may be done, but I would've said since you're in there, might as well be sure and continue until you feel satisfied with the results.
No problem at all. Thanks for getting back to me. I gave it another hour of washing. I SLAM the pool again and hopefully, I can enjoy in the pool by tomorrow.

I've spotted a leak in the pipeline. Do you have any cost-effective ways to seal this leak? (Image attached).
I intend to replace the pipes next year, so I don't want to invest a lot in something that will be replaced soon.

Thanks again.
 

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That looks to be on your pressure side, right where the off-line chlorinator tube is attached correct? If so, it's difficult to seal a leak on the pressure side because of the water pushing outward. That one is tough because it's a pin-sized hole letting water shoot out unlike a slow drop. Having said that, you may have nothing to lose by trying. So, something you can try is leave the system off for a couple hours. Let the water out of the system at the pad so there is no pressure in that line trying to put outward. Scuff it up a little and try an epoxy. I think of something like JB Weld (the 5-min quick dry kind), but there are others. It "might" hold things for the next 2-3 months. Another thought some people might try is to actually open that hole slightly with a drill bit for better access and adhesion. Actually insert a small screw with that epoxy for better grip.

Eventually you'll do the repair right, but something like that might hold you over.
 
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