First year I can't get it cleared up

Sculptera

Member
Jun 18, 2021
12
White lake mi
Hello all!

I opened the pool back on Memorial Day weekend, and while there's been slight light at the end of the tunnel, Im at a loss. Last year, the pool was sparkling, and a thunderstorm wiped it out in minutes. I watched water runoff from the yard, and tree debris go into the pool and it turned into a muddy mess. We got some of it cleared, but did not fully resolve it.
this year, when opening, I dropped the PH, and started SLAMming with quick results. Within a day or two, I could see the bottom, and while the water still had a green tint, I noticed the bottom had brown debris over the bottom. I dropped in the robot and of course it stirred it up. Since then, the pool is light green and fairly cloudy. I also notice a yellowish brown substance on the steps until I brush. Our pollen has been pretty heavy here in Michigan right now, including the cottonwood.
When I rinse the cartridge filter, its mainly a brown, dirty water coming off. It comes out clean quickly, and there's no green. No matter how much FC I have in there, the water stays green. It keeps screaming algae to me. Ive got my hired labor (my son) scrubbing multiple times a day as well.
Ive been at this for weeks, dosing regularly and testing at least twice a day (at work during day). Ive been hitting it hard at night, but since I leave for work early, I havent been able to do an OCLT. There's been no change in the water, besides being slightly lighter the last couple days. The FC has been at or around 14-24 for days. My patience supply is running out, just like my liquid chlorine. :D

Water results from an hour ago: (Taylor 2006C)
FC 18.5
CYA 0 (going to resolve this)
CC .5
ph 7.4
TA 120
Salt 3800

Any advice would be appreciated very much!

-Matt

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Taylor 2006C, 16x32, Vinyl lined, Sta-Rite 200k BTU heater, Pentair Superflo pump, Hayward Star Clear Plus Cartridge filter.
Jandy salt system.
 

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One of the guidelines in the SLAM Process is to have a minimum CYA of 30. This helps maintain the FC against UV burn off. So the current FC level is fighting UV loss and consuming algae.
It is difficult if you are not at home but testing and adding LC 3-4 a day is critical at the onset of starting a SLAM.
Removing any large debris with a vacuum is also helpful.
 
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Thank you. My apologies for replying so late. I did raise the CYA, although its higher than before, its still not quite 30. Im adding another dose of liquid conditioner. Ive been adding a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine around 3 times a day, and brushing.
Today, it does look slightly better.
FC 10, holding steady around 10 each time tested today. OCLT looks passed this morning, trying again tomorrow.
CC 0
PH 7.6
CYA < 30
'
I do have a few questions. I feel my filter that was installed might be undersized for my pool? Its a 90 sq foot filter media, while the recommended seems to be around 400. When I hose out my filter media, the only thing coming out of it is brown water. No green. Is it possible this is dirt/metals?
I was using an Amazon filter this year, and I think that might have been part of the issue in that the filter was not capturing as well as the old Unicel filter I had in there. I cleaned the old Unicel filter real good today, and placed it back in. Starting pressure was 15, and now its up to 17.5, so Im assuming its doing its job so far.

could it be possible that metals might be keeping it the 'aqua' green tint? Local pool store test has Iron at .10 ppm and copper at .20ppb

At this point, should I keep going on the slam process, or also deal with any metals? According to this site, It doesnt appear the metals are high enough to be an issue,.

thank you!
 

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I feel my filter that was installed might be undersized for my pool? Its a 90 sq foot filter media, while the recommended seems to be around 400. When I hose out my filter media, the only thing coming out of it is brown water. No green. Is it possible this is dirt/metals?
I was using an Amazon filter this year, and I think that might have been part of the issue in that the filter was not capturing as well as the old Unicel filter I had in there. I cleaned the old Unicel filter real good today, and placed it back in. Starting pressure was 15, and now its up to 17.5, so Im assuming its doing its job so far.
Your filter could be too small for a cartridge type. It is best to have at least 200 sq ft or even over 300 sq ft.
A filter should be cleaned if the pressure increase is 25% over starting pressure. So at 15%, if it hits 18.5 psi it is best to clean it.
could it be possible that metals might be keeping it the 'aqua' green tint? Local pool store test has Iron at .10 ppm and copper at .20ppb

At this point, should I keep going on the slam process, or also deal with any metals? According to this site, It doesnt appear the metals are high enough to be an issue,.
Continue with SLAM. Remember the 3 criteria to end a SLAM
Once all three of these criteria are met, you have completed the SLAM process and can allow the FC to drop to normal levels.
  • CC is 0.5 or lower
  • AND your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less
  • AND pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls
 
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