Losing FC and cloudiness/haziness
- Thread starter LaurenB
- Start date
Davegnh
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 31, 2021
- 299
- Pool Size
- 11000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Others may have a better answer but I have noticed during slam if the sun is shining during the day I'll lose a significant amount of chlorine trying to maintain slam levels. However at night the loss will be a lot less. So my thoughts are that you lost most of the chlorine due to the sun and not necessarily due to algae. That's why chlorine loss overnight is the best test.
Not in the northeast and especially not this early in the season.
How sure are you on the CYA ? Mine just tanked and I realized it when I had abnormal loss.
Had to do an OCLT to prove it wasn't algae before raising the CYA, which you just passed.
Or maybe the bleach was a little weak.
Davegnh
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 31, 2021
- 299
- Pool Size
- 11000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I live further north and even doing a opening pool season slam in May I've lost a lot of chlorine during the day and very little at night. My pool gets 10 to 12 hours of sunshine this Time of year. At slam levels chlorine disappears fast when the sun's shining
Yes. Especially for those of us with SWGs. The extra FC loss becomes really noticeable in the 20s, which is why it sucks to SLAM with higher CYA.
But OP lost from 8.5 to 3.5 today, in normal operating range.
Davegnh
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 31, 2021
- 299
- Pool Size
- 11000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I added the gallon of 10% and then checked 20 min later. Fc only went up to 6.5, should have gone to 8. So I’m guessing weak chlorine is the culprit. But I’ll check cya again tomorrow. We have had quite a bit of rain lately.
Sweet. 3ppm loss is entirely reasonable, if the last dose behaved like this one.
It could also be a little of both.
If the CYA isn't low, pay attention going forward because at some point, that next storm will lower it enough that it finally registers on the test. The storms have seemingly been coming every few days.
You waited too long to check. 10 minutes and Re-check. Fir all you know it may have been up and then lost due to a water issue but when checking soo er that may tell you if the chlorine is week. What's the Julian date on the chlorine jug.
20 mins ok in algae free water. The recommendation accounts for all the pools with less than stellar circulation.
I fully agree that 10 mins is likely fine, but nothing substantial happened between 10 and 20 mins in this instance.
Correct but trying to see the chlorine strength a bit earlier will tell you it ain't upto snuff and rule out the water otherwise its what you said.
Cya 40…. I tried so hard to see that dot to make it less but it just wasn’t happening.
Crystal clear water now so I’m not messing with the DE.
However, fc at 3pm was 4.5. I used a bag of shock from the pool store (66% cal hypo). Should have raised to 8. Tested and it raised to 6.5. (Occ) Now I’m thinking I have more than 22,500 gallons… what else could it be? I have the schematic from being built and that’s what I’ve been going off of. My confirmation was right after opening and adding liquid cya and it raising the correct amount.
My brain hurts.
Crystal clear water now so I’m not messing with the DE.
However, fc at 3pm was 4.5. I used a bag of shock from the pool store (66% cal hypo). Should have raised to 8. Tested and it raised to 6.5. (Occ) Now I’m thinking I have more than 22,500 gallons… what else could it be? I have the schematic from being built and that’s what I’ve been going off of. My confirmation was right after opening and adding liquid cya and it raising the correct amount.
My brain hurts.
Don't stare or your brain will lie to you. Wanna see ? Look at your nose. It was there this whole time, probably even longer than that.
I do a lightning fast glance and call it yes or no.
It would have to be 38k to only add 2 ppm. I doubt your estimate is off by that much.
Without the hopper angles removing a 1 or 2 thousand gallons, I get about 29k if you have equal shallow and deep ends.
Something else is off.
OMG THANKS for the laugh.
We can never definitively measure that 
googley eye so I assure you it was purely coincidence or luck.
I ordered a new R0003 for the dpd. It occurred to me this entire time I’ve had 0CC. Even after the solid brown murk that I opened to. I can’t be that lucky, can I?
I ruled out a bad R0003 with the help of my daughter’s Betta fish.
Some tank water, a drop of bleach and a dpd test that yielded cc’s. (I did not count how many but Mickey’s tank will be cleaned tomorrow!)
Some tank water, a drop of bleach and a dpd test that yielded cc’s. (I did not count how many but Mickey’s tank will be cleaned tomorrow!)
Have you checked your phosphate level lately? I was having similar problems with my pool and the phosphate level rose to over 1000ppm over the winter season and caused rapid chlorine loss/ usage and haziness.
pp*b*. Billion.
Phosphates don't matter for most pools, so long as the FC levels are appropriate for their CYA. Algae won't grow in an inhospitable environment. Algae 'food' is then irrelevant.
So phosphates can become a problem IF you develop algae? I do live right next to a dairy farm. I watch the cows from the pool.
Yes. Once you have algae, then algae food matters. It would need to be several thousand ppb to matter.
I'm on a farm too and probably have a bunch of phosphates so I run hot. I mean. I ran hot before I lived on a farm, but now that has something to do with it too.
Its just easier to not get the algae than to worry about what will happen when you get algae.
I have to disagree with your reply, I always have FC higher 7% or higher, CYA 80, the buildup of phosphates overran the pool chemistry..