In North Texas... When is it best to run the pump during summer?

[reggiehammond]

Algae + DE Filter is a bad combo. Once you get clean and clear, and clean the filter completely, you should be able to go lower on RPMs again.

 

[tenderfoot]

Thanks. Yes, crystal clear water now. So I have now cleaned the filter completely and refilled with DE. I am running at 1800 24/7 for now until I am comfortable with the chemistry and these weekend rains have subsided.

 

[reggiehammond]

Sounds like a good plan! This time of year is tricky - warm enough to be swimmable, but also easily able to get a big dose of fresh water into the pool. I'm always eager to get CYA to summer levels, really focus on balance, etc, and as soon as I do, a big wash out.

 

[tenderfoot]

Yes! I always go through that as well. Lol

 

[tenderfoot]

Well dang it. It looks like my SWG may be on its way out

I heard beeping and holding down the D key gives me code 120. I am cleaning it now (water&muriatic acid), so we'll see if that fixes it. Else, gulp...

 

[proavia]

Start with a clean filter.
Lower the pump RPM until the SWG flow light comes on.
Increase the pump RPM until the flow light is consistently off.
Add about 200 RPM to that to account for the filter getting dirty.

Always clean the filter when the pressure increases 25% above clean pressure. Use 2000 RPM to 2500 RPM (your your highest programmed speed if higher) to determine your clean filter pressure.

 

[proavia]

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Add that test kit to your signature

How old are the test kit reagents?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (from a drop based test, not the SWG reading)
Water temperature

Don't clean the SWG if there are no buildups inside. First use a wooden skewer or a zip tie to remove the buildups. If you can't get them all, use undiluted vinegar instead of a muriatic acid and water mixture. The vinegar is less harsh on the plates of the SWG.

 

[tenderfoot]

Start with a clean filter.
Lower the pump RPM until the SWG flow light comes on.
Increase the pump RPM until the flow light is consistently off.
Add about 200 RPM to that to account for the filter getting dirty.

Always clean the filter when the pressure increases 25% above clean pressure. Use 2000 RPM to 2500 RPM (your your highest programmed speed if higher) to determine your clean filter pressure.

I had never heard about the correct RPM to determine the clean filter pressure. Thank you!

 

[tenderfoot]

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Add that test kit to your signature

How old are the test kit reagents?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (from a drop based test, not the SWG reading)
Water temperature

Don't clean the SWG if there are no buildups inside. First use a wooden skewer or a zip tie to remove the buildups. If you can't get them all, use undiluted vinegar instead of a muriatic acid and water mixture. The vinegar is less harsh on the plates of the SWG.

I use the TF-100 kit.

The water chemistry is now good, except for FC.

It's just that we had a ton of rain this past weekend and I had just finished the SLAM process. I am still waiting for the FC to drop below 10. It's been declining slowly but steadily since Friday.

I had the SWG off until today, and was checking it today to have it ready so that I didn't drop below my target FC. I heard beeping a few minutes after I activated it.

I cleaned it and that seemed to address the beeping issue.

Thanks for letting me know about the gentler way to clean it. I will use that going forward.

 

[tenderfoot]

Well darn it. It looks like the SWG cell is indeed close to its death. It is still breaking up the salt into chlorine, but the beeping and error code are back. Sigh... I just ordered a new cell.