Maintaining chemicals with pool leak

[water0125]

Our 8yo SWG pool has a leak. It’s likely been leaking for a year, but the pool maintenance person in our family didn’t notice that the chemicals were constantly out of whack. The leak is also likely under the deck/house, so we haven't noticed the excess water. And, also thought we were just using a lot of water for our sprinklers.

We have someone scheduled to come out on Wednesday to check for the leak location. And, I’m pool maintenance person now (for several reasons ...)

I bought the Tfp testing kit and have been learning about chemicals and the whole pool maintenance process.

So, with the constant pool refilling, the CYA is disappearing along with any chlorine. The acid is going up to 8.1 regularly, which then shuts down the system. The TA seems ok. (Please be kind if I'm using any pool lingo incorrectly. )

Any suggestions on how to manage the pool most effectively until the leak is fixed? Should I just regularly test and add conditioner constantly? Thank you!

 

[ajw22]

Test regularly and adjust the chemicals as necessary.

In addition to CYA a leak will lose CH and salt. Keep an eye on their levels.

Log all of your tests in PoolMath so we can review your logs if you want to discuss your water chemistry.

Please update your signature when you have time.

 

[water0125]

Signature updated. Getting up and going on PoolMath, so that information can be linked. Is CH Calcium hardness?

 

[ajw22]

Signature updated.

What type of pool? Plaster? Liner? Fiberglass?

Pump model?

Filter type and size?

Is CH Calcium hardness?

Yup.

 

[Newdude]

the CYA is disappearing along with any chlorine

Over time, or daily ?

This could go alot of ways because of what's gone down. Upgrade poolmath to premium ($8 a year and CHEAP). You'll be able to save all your logs and not just the last one. It comes in handy in times like now when you want to see the trends. We can see them too for a double bonus.


Run a full set of tests and post the #s. Hopefully the low CYA is the reason for low FC and that's the end of it. Algae may be blooming (even in clear water, it's microscopic until it's over run) because of the frequent low FC.

You'll want to test FC after dark and before the sun comes up to remove the UV from the equation. If you lose FC overnight, algae has gotten a head start. Please read the further details here : Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

 

[water0125]

Plaster. Just added to signature. Will need to get other info to add to signature.

Tested CH and its 175. I haven't added stuff to adjust CH yet. Need to figure that out, because the prior pool person hasn't said anything about adjusting for CH.

 

[ajw22]

Plaster. Just added to signature. Will need to get other info to add to signature.

Tested CH and its 175. I haven't added stuff to adjust CH yet. Need to figure that out, because the prior pool person hasn't said anything about adjusting for CH.

CH in a plaster pool should be at least 250 ppm.

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[water0125]

What type of pool? Plaster? Liner? Fiberglass?

Pump model?

Filter type and size?



Yup.

Just updated signature again! LOL. Should have pump and filter info now. Thanks for guiding me on providing on all the needed info.

 

[Newdude]

Just updated signature again! LOL.

To be fair, there is the profile section and the signature and many have thought that one was the other.

But it's great now, so good job.

 

[water0125]

Over time, or daily ?

This could go alot of ways because of what's gone down. Upgrade poolmath to premium ($8 a year and CHEAP). You'll be able to save all your logs and not just the last one. It comes in handy in times like now when you want to see the trends. We can see them too for a double bonus.


Run a full set of tests and post the #s. Hopefully the low CYA is the reason for low FC and that's the end of it. Algae may be blooming (even in clear water, it's microscopic until it's over run) because of the frequent low FC.

You'll want to test FC after dark and before the sun comes up to remove the UV from the equation. If you lose FC overnight, algae has gotten a head start. Please read the further details here : Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

Upgraded to premium. Posted a couple tests, but need to run full numbers.

Read the info on overnight test. Like I said -- I'm new to the maintaining pool process. Not sure that I understand the first two steps:

"1. If you have an SWG, tablet chlorinator, or other chlorine feeder, shut it off completely.
2. Turn your pump on at least 30 minutes prior to ALL testing."

I know how to put my pool in service mode, so I can clean the baskets in the pool room. Is that shutting off my SWG or turning off my pump?

I know -- basic questions. I'm also going to do some googling.

 

[water0125]

CH in a plaster pool should be at least 250 ppm.

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Looking at the pool math app and it shows a pretty wide range. How do I determine where I should be? I also need to figure out where to purchase calcium chloride or CC dihydrate. Googling that also, since its not in stock at my Lowes.

 

[Newdude]

Set the swg to 0%, which is effectively 'off'.

Run the pump for 30 mins before both tests. If you leave the pump on overnight, that saves you 1/2 hour of sleep in the AM because it's already mixed.

Like I said -- I'm new to the maintaining pool process.

Please ask anytime. If you goof something you're unsure of, we may have multiple things to fix. And rest assured, we will help with those too. But it's better for all parties to only have one fish to fry.

We were all new once. We remember. We will be patient and rewind as many times as you need, because others did that for us back in the day.

Looking at the pool math app and it shows a pretty wide range. How do I determine where I should be?

What is your fill water CH ?

figure out where to purchase calcium chloride or CC dihydrate.

Puritech calcium chloride is $2/lb in the big bags on Amazon. The fancy pool kind is spendy, and the cheap ice melts are manufactured with zero thoughts about pools. Puritech is a happy medium IMO.

 

[ajw22]

Looking at the pool math app and it shows a pretty wide range. How do I determine where I should be? I also need to figure out where to purchase calcium chloride or CC dihydrate. Googling that also, since its not in stock at my Lowes.

Start your CH at the minimum 250 ppm since it will accumulate over time from adding fill water to replace evaporation and rise.

 

[water0125]

Set the swg to 0%, which is effectively 'off'.

Run the pump for 30 mins before both tests. If you leave the pump on overnight, that saves you 1/2 hour of sleep in the AM because it's already mixed.

Please ask anytime. If you goof something you're unsure of, we may have multiple things to fix. And rest assured, we will help with those too. But it's better for all parties to only have one fish to fry.

We were all new once. We remember. We will be patient and rewind as many times as you need, because others did that for us back in the day.

What is your fill water CH ?

Puritech calcium chloride is $2/lb in the big bags on Amazon. The fancy pool kind is spendy, and the cheap ice melts are manufactured with zero thoughts about pools. Puritech is a happy medium IMO.

I don't know my city water CH. I'll test it. I suppose that will tell me if the CH will go up as the pool is refilling?

Thanks for the rec on Amazon. Think I found a source locally for a similar price. Is this the correct stuff?
O-ACE-sis Granule Calcium Hardness Increaser 25 lb - Ace Hardware

 

[Newdude]

I don't know my city water CH. I'll test it. I suppose that will tell me if the CH will go up as the pool is refilling?

It may or may not. You get about 3 ft of rain a year which will combat at least some of the CH rise from filling.

Think I found a source locally for a similar price. Is this the correct stuff?

Yup. That'll work.

 

[water0125]

Set the swg to 0%, which is effectively 'off'.

Run the pump for 30 mins before both tests. If you leave the pump on overnight, that saves you 1/2 hour of sleep in the AM because it's already mixed.

Please ask anytime. If you goof something you're unsure of, we may have multiple things to fix. And rest assured, we will help with those too. But it's better for all parties to only have one fish to fry.

We were all new once. We remember. We will be patient and rewind as many times as you need, because others did that for us back in the day.

What is your fill water CH ?

Puritech calcium chloride is $2/lb in the big bags on Amazon. The fancy pool kind is spendy, and the cheap ice melts are manufactured with zero thoughts about pools. Puritech is a happy medium IMO.

Looked up info on my SWG and know how to turn it off. Yay! I'll try to do the overnight test tomorrow.

Found Chlorox calcium hardness increaser at Walmart, so I have that to add instead of the Ace Hardware calcium hardness increaser.

My city water CH is 150 ppm. To increase my CH to 250, poolmath says to add 6lbs.

Is that where I should start or should I aim for 450 on my CH, which then means that I need to add 25lbs.

Also, I did a full set of tests and they are in my pool math. The CYA wouldn't show up, since the cylinder only goes to 30, so I recorded it as 1. I have some test strips. Those strips show CYA as zero.

 

[water0125]

Also, should I add acid to bring the PH down before I add the calcium hardness increaser? Or add pool conditioner?

 

[ajw22]

Also, should I add acid to bring the PH down before I add the calcium hardness increaser? Or add pool conditioner?

Those are three independent things that have no connection.

 

[water0125]

Just added 6lbs of Clorox calcium hardness increaser. When should I test CH again?

 

[Newdude]

Give it a day. There's no rush.