Strange Salt Cell Issue

[diesel1218]

The pool needs to run to perform a function. Skimming / swg / heat / filter / water features / etc. Each of those functions has a min speed needed to work. Start low and increase RPMs by 100 until each works well, then note what speed you need and add 100 RPMs to account for lower flow as the filter gets dirty. The higher speeds cover the lower functions by default.

This time of year you likely have next to no debris blowing in and barely need any filtering and skimming. You could probably get away with the 2 hours needed for FC production. (with the cell at 100%) Once the pollen gets going (and in the fall) you'll need the most time filtering skimming that you will all season and the current 12 hours at low RPM is probably about right. Mid season you'll need somewhere in the middle.

I can't be bothered adjusting pump runtime and let it go 24/7 at low RPMs for $20 ish a month. The added bonus is I'm skimming and filtering around the clock. Even with 12 hours off, that's a long time for debris to get waterlogged and sink to the bottom.

The added added bonus is the SWG is producing around the clock also, always keeping me topped off. Then I only have to adjust the cell%, and not the cell% and the pump. Every little bit of less maths helps.

But yeah. 24/7 low speed with a SWG is only way to go IMO.

That's an interesting thought. Being screened in there isn't much debris however we do get floods of gnats during rain sometimes.

I would be fine running my pool 24/7 however currently it runs 2 hours on 3450RPM and 10 hours on 3001 RPM. I think I can only turn it down so low before the flow señor will trigger it to shut off.

 

[Newdude]

Being screened in there isn't much debris

PERFECT example. You have next to no debris, ever, that needs skimming/filtering. Pollen will get you for a spell but will be over in a couple weeks.

I think I can only turn it down so low before the flow señor will trigger it to shut off

Which flow sensor? The heater and SWG have their own individual and if you have a suction/pressure cleaner it will have a preferred speed as well. The pump is capable of 500 RPMs(?) You'll probably need 1200 or so to skim well and fire up the SWG. I run at 1500 (a paltry 210W) because we like the water flowing a bit more. You heater probably turns on in the high teens. Figure them all out and report back.

 

[diesel1218]

PERFECT example. You have next to no debris, ever, that needs skimming/filtering. Pollen will get you for a spell but will be over in a couple weeks.

Which flow sensor? The heater and SWG have their own individual and if you have a suction/pressure cleaner it will have a preferred speed as well. The pump is capable of 500 RPMs(?) You'll probably need 1200 or so to skim well and fire up the SWG. I run at 1500 (a paltry 210W) because we like the water flowing a bit more. You heater probably turns on in the high teens. Figure them all out and report back.

I believe the flow sensor for the SWG because I rarely use the heater in the summer. Pool being new we will surely turn it on in the spring. I know I have put the pump on low before and it turns off. Low is set at 625 RPM, Medium 1725 and High 3540. I think my last service guy said dont turn it below 2800 since it is a larger pool but look how he turned out.

I do want to get a suction clear at some point but haven't yet. Sure there are a lot of recommendation here I can look up.

 

[Mdragger88]

Most swg flow switches need it around 1200-1400 rpm to engage. You wanna add a few hundred to that to account for the filter getting dirty & slowing flow.
You could just try your medium setting of 1725 & see how you fare.

 

[ajw22]

Unless your Heat Pump is bypassed you need more RPMs then those without heaters.

 

[diesel1218]

Unless your Heat Pump is bypassed you need more RPMs then those without heaters.

Yeah that's what I figured, I remember trying the low setting and I dont think it likes to run at 1700RPM. Just trying to make sure the size pool is running enough and at the right speeds to push water through.

 

[diesel1218]

SO just tested FC since the salt cell install yesterday. It ran for probably 6 hours at 50%. My FC is 8.5 today up from 5.5 yesterday. Now my Ph is still high. Not sure if that's due to rain or just the fact the FC was so high. Its still easily over 8.2.

 

[Newdude]

Its still easily over 8.2

Both high and low might be really high/low and read as 6.8 or 8.2. Dose per pool math from 8.2 to make it a high 7. Mix well and retest. Repeat if necessary until it's a 7.

The PH test isnt valid at 10+ FC (often throwing a false high) so let it drift down below 10 first when necessary.

It ran for probably 6 hours at 50%

Try to get an exact, or reasonably close enough so we can start to build a picture of your gallons and how the SWG responds.

If it is actually 6 hours at 50% (3 hours on) and you picked up 3 FC it's producing 1 FC per hour on. One day could always be a fluke but after several that agree, we can trust it going forward.

 

[diesel1218]

Both high and low might be really high/low and read as 6.8 or 8.2. Dose per pool math from 8.2 to make it a high 7. Mix well and retest. Repeat if necessary until it's a 7.

Okay I did that yesterday added 22oz of acid, which is what it will call for again.

If it is actually 6 hours at 50% (3 hours on) and you picked up 3 FC it's producing 1 FC per hour on. One day could always be a fluke but after several that agree, we can trust it going forward.

Noted, will leave it the same, full day of running at 12 hours will be 6 hours on. I guess we will see the reading tomorrow at the same time.

 

[Newdude]

Okay I did that yesterday added 22oz of acid, which is what it will call for again.

20 mins with good mixing is plenty to recheck. How often does your spill over run ? It'll contribute greatly to PH rise so only run it twice for 15 mins a day when you're not enjoying it. New plaster may have a healthy appetite for the first year also. (Sorry I forget how new the pool is)

will leave it the same, full day of running at 12 hours will be 6 hours on. I guess we will see the reading tomorrow at the same time.

It's gonna be JACKED gaining up to 6ppm. But it's OK. The info learned will come in handy when the FL sun is inhospitable.

Your cage will help lower the intensity a bit. Add it to your signature so we see it at a glance when you post.

 

[diesel1218]

20 mins with good mixing is plenty to recheck. How often does your spill over run ? It'll contribute greatly to PH rise so only run it twice for 15 mins a day when you're not enjoying it. New plaster may have a healthy appetite for the first year also. (Sorry I forget how new the pool is)

Not sure what you mean by spill over run? Pool is 8 months old.

It's gonna be JACKED gaining up to 6ppm. But it's OK. The info learned will come in handy when the FL sun is inhospitable.

DO you suggest I cut it down to 25% on the SWG to play it safe? I mean the Ph will still be unreadable if I go over the 10FC.

 

[Newdude]

Not sure what you mean by spill over run?

Does the spa overflow into the pool ?

Pool is 8 months old.

Ok so it's still probably raising the PH.

DO you suggest I cut it down to 25% on the SWG to play it safe?

Yeah. That would be 3 hours and somewhere between the expected 1.5 rise and the 3 FC rise if it behaves like yesterday. (Minus any loss of course)

 

[diesel1218]

Does the spa overflow into the pool ?

Yes it is an infinity style Spa.

Yeah. That would be 3 hours and somewhere between the expected 1.5 rise and the 3 FC rise if it behaves like yesterday. (Minus any loss of course)

Okay just turned down the SWG to 25%.

Here is a picture so you can see the SPA.

 

[Newdude]

Yes it is an infinity style Spa.

Ok. Aeration is a main contrition to PH rise so whenever it's running it'll be working against you. By all means enjoy it while you're out there but only run it enough to flush the spa (twice daily) when nobody is enjoying it.

Have you found the Wiki yet ? The link is towards the bottom of any page in the quick navigation section. . There's oodles of good info there, nicely alphabetized. Ph and the PH/TA relationship, for example.

Okay just turned down the SWG to 25%.

GREAT. So 25% of 12 hours is 3 hours that the cell will produce, spread over the 12 with on/off cycles. We're expecting about .5 FC per hour on, but you saw 1 FC per hour yesterday. This is the fun part with road testing. Keep us posted.

 

[diesel1218]

Ok. Aeration is a main contrition to PH rise so whenever it's running it'll be working against you. By all means enjoy it while you're out there but only run it enough to flush the spa (twice daily) when nobody is enjoying it.

So the SPA isn't on only the return for the SPA is on pushing water over the sides. To be honest I have only turned the SPA on to RUN twice.

I do have two bubblers that run when the pool runs. I assume you suggest I turn those off too?

Have you found the Wiki yet ? The link is towards the bottom of any page in the quick navigation section. . There's oodles of good info there, nicely alphabetized. Ph and the PH/TA relationship, for example.

Yes I have read some great articles there.

 

[Newdude]

So the SPA isn't on only the return for the SPA is on pushing water over the sides. To be honest I have only turned the SPA on to RUN twice.

I do have two bubblers that run when the pool runs. I assume you suggest I turn those off too?

Water disturbance is aeration, so any/all of it will raise the PH. Keeping it to a minimum will help the PH be more stable.

 

[Mdragger88]

You still want the lines to be chlorinated & the spa to mix a couple times a day but no need to run them all the time.

 

[diesel1218]

GREAT. So 25% of 12 hours is 3 hours that the cell will produce, spread over the 12 with on/off cycles. We're expecting about .5 FC per hour on, but you saw 1 FC per hour yesterday. This is the fun part with road testing. Keep us posted.

So tested this morning at 10 FC, with the SWG running mainly for 3 hours yesterday since it was 12 hours at 25%. That's about .67/hour. Well I guess you need to also account for a daily loss of 1, so does that mean I really gained 3 FC with it running at 25%?

I turned the SWG off today.

 

[Newdude]

That's about .67/hour.

Ok use that going forward for a general idea when adjusting pump runtime or %.

 

[diesel1218]

Ok use that going forward for a general idea when adjusting pump runtime or %.

Sounds like tithe SWG should be running at 10% if it is on all day just to account for the 1ppm loss per day in off season. I have it turned off for now, let the levels come back down. It is also a tricky week as we have just had horrible weather. Other numbers are still around the same think the TA and Ph both went back up with the rain but hard to tell with a FC of 10. Ph was lower 7.9 yesterday after the acid. But now back up and TA 100. CH 300 and sun isn't playing nice today for CYA.