Pool Chlorine Level Keeps Dropping (Please help! Incurring astronomic costs in chemicals)

qsch1

Well-known member
Hi, I have a 20,000 Gal pool which always worked well however since about 6 months I am having issues. I am not sure if it is the computer board or the cell (both which I changed about 6 - 12 months ago). The cell is a Compupool Replacement salt cell (not Autopilot, attached image). Although everything seems to be working fine the chlorine level drops after shocking it and it clearing at first after all the chemicals have been put in - it seems as though the cell or board is not working properly but there are not errors (or flashing red light). I also checked stablizer and salt, I put thousands of dollars of chemicals in in the last few months, and the same problem keeps occuring. It clears, then when the chemicals wear off the pool turns even though it should balance out due to cell being quite new. I now have a solar powered half horse pump. Best wishes
 

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Hi, I have a 20,000 Gal pool which always worked well however since about 6 months I am having issues. I am not sure if it is the computer board or the cell (both which I changed about 6 - 12 months ago). The cell is a Compupool Replacement salt cell (not Autopilot, attached image). Although everything seems to be working fine the chlorine level drops after shocking it and it clearing at first after all the chemicals have been put in - it seems as though the cell or board is not working properly but there are not errors (or flashing red light). I also checked stablizer and salt, I put thousands of dollars of chemicals in in the last few months, and the same problem keeps occuring. It clears, then when the chemicals wear off the pool turns even though it should balance out due to cell being quite new. Best wishes
Can you post some test results to help give you advice?
 
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Test strips aren't very reliable. Even if they are new and fresh, the wide ranges of test results they provide make it quite difficult to properly manage pool chemistry.
Do you receive Amazon deliveries? Postal deliveries from the US?
Any way to get a drop based test kit sent from the US?
Are Taylor drop based test kits available locally?

What pool quantity (usually listed in gallons or liters) is your SWG rated for?
We recommend a SWG be rated forat less 2 times your pool volume.

What types of chlorine do you have available there?
Liquid chlorine/bleach (might be labelled as liquid shock)?
Dichlor and/or trichlor tablets?
Calhypo (calcium hypochlorite)?
 
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Hi, thanks very much you all, very much appreciate it!

I think I can get pretty much almost all the main chemicals needed. The pool guys on the island, they have quite a few products. What I usually use is stabiliser, salt, acid (on rare occassions). Currently the salt is at 3600 PPM. If I have to shock the pool (like lately when it gets hazy, then I use chlorine powder (I think we also used hyper chlor) and also leave some tablets in it to keep the level up. I also used "drop and vac" and "superblue" when I had to get it clear quickly (like if I had guests arriving).

The issue is the chlorine level always drops after about a week, when the levels of the shock drops - this although the cell should be producing more than enough chlorine for the pool, as there is enough salt and stabiliser in the pool. I feel the cell may not be producing properly but its not giving an error. Before the cell I have now, I had Autopilot cells and had no issue as I have been having now for extended periods.

I just received stuff shipped from abroad, and can get pretty much everything with some planning, or someone flying in. I think the pool guys have a better test kit if I request them to check it more (they also use test kits), but as mentioned don't see the point when all the levels of the chemicals the pool needs are fine.

I have had the pool about 15 years and never had an issue like now, and I know quite a bit about it.

Is there a way to test the cell chlorine output from the cell, or the computer board (which I also changed) to see if its working fine. I know the test with the amperage etc. but something more indebt, the boart might be faulty? Or the cell, although it smelled heavily like chlorine when I opened it but this may have been from the shock.

Thanks and regards!
 
Test strips aren't very reliable. Even if they are new and fresh, the wide ranges of test results they provide make it quite difficult to properly manage pool chemistry.
Do you receive Amazon deliveries? Postal deliveries from the US?
Any way to get a drop based test kit sent from the US?
Are Taylor drop based test kits available locally?

What pool quantity (usually listed in gallons or liters) is your SWG rated for?
We recommend a SWG be rated forat less 2 times your pool volume.

What types of chlorine do you have available there?
Liquid chlorine/bleach (might be labelled as liquid shock)?
Dichlor and/or trichlor tablets?
Calhypo (calcium hypochlorite)?

The pool cell is attached and rated for twice the size of my pool which is approx 15 - 20 Gal. Thanks
 

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Great!

What test kits and other pool supplies areavailable there?
Can you get liquid chlorine, bleach, liquid pool shock?
How about muriatic acid?

Sorry for all the questions, just not sure what's available on the island.
 
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Okay so we need to do some fine tuning of the pool needs and care to figure things out.

It REALLY sounds like your cell is not working like it is supposed to. One thing you can do is get a sample of water right were it comes out of the return closest to the equipment when you know the cell is supposed to be producing chlorine. This kind of thing is why you really need your own test kit. Otherwise you are flying blind and depending on others.

I have a set of links I put together to help people who is struggling with their pool:
Pool care links:

Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 

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Sounds like recurrent algae-
Please understand that the cell is designed to maintain the normal maintenance fc level. Not overcome algae. It simply cannot as it produces fc too slowly. Even if it’s working properly and is oversized.
To fully eradicate the algae so your swcg can get back to maintaining you need to do the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine but this requires that you have one of the kits we recommend
See—> Test Kits Compared.

You must deal with the algae first by doing the slam process & prove it’s gone by passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria- then you can move on to troubleshooting your swcg & do an overnight gain test to determine if it’s functioning properly but the possibility of algae must be eliminated.
You must have at minimum an fas/dpd test, cya test, & a salt test to accomplish these tasks.
 
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Sounds like recurrent algae-
Please understand that the cell is designed to maintain the normal maintenance fc level. Not overcome algae. It simply cannot as it produces fc too slowly. Even if it’s working properly and is oversized.
To fully eradicate the algae so your swcg can get back to maintaining you need to do the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine but this requires that you have one of the kits we recommend
See—> Test Kits Compared.

You must deal with the algae first by doing the slam process & prove it’s gone by passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria- then you can move on to troubleshooting your swcg & do an overnight gain test to determine if it’s functioning properly but the possibility of algae must be eliminated.
You must have at minimum an fas/dpd test, cya test, & a salt test to accomplish these tasks.

I have done an intense shock and the pool was blue, clear, and free of algae. This would last for several days (up to almost a week) then it would return, which I think happens when the shock levels drop and due to the possibility of the cell not working properly, the chlorine level is not maintained. I went through this process over and over again. When it was shocked and chlorine was manually added, it was then clear and there was no algae at all. The problem is that it then returns, and the vicious cycle starts all over again.
 
I have done an intense shock and the pool was blue, clear, and free of algae. This would last for several days (up to almost a week) then it would return, which I think happens when the shock levels drop and due to the possibility of the cell not working properly, the chlorine level is not maintained. I went through this process over and over again. When it was shocked and chlorine was manually added, it was then clear and there was no algae at all. The problem is that it then returns, and the vicious cycle starts all over again.

When I shock it the level of chlorine is obviously very high. After 4 - 6 days that drops and on the test strip is white, no colour.
 
I have done an intense shock and the pool was blue, clear, and free of algae. This would last for several days (up to almost a week) then it would return, which I think happens when the shock levels drop and due to the possibility of the cell not working properly, the chlorine level is not maintained. I went through this process over and over again. When it was shocked and chlorine was manually added, it was then clear and there was no algae at all. The problem is that it then returns, and the vicious cycle starts all over again.
It may have been clear but if you did not do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test you cannot be sure it was actually algae free.
The SLAM Process is not a once or twice addition of chlorine.
It is raising fc to slam level for your cya & MAINTAINING it there until ALL 3 of these are true:
✅ CC is 0.5 or lower;
✅ You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
✅ The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

After which you can immediately do an Overnight chlorine gain test to determine if your swcg is working properly.

If you wait until you have inadequate fc for your cya level you will need to start all over again as algae will again take hold. You must continue to manually chlorinate until you get the cell problem resolved.
It does sound like you may have a cell production problem but we need to be able to prove it - & you will too if you want to put in a warranty claim. This means taking care of the algae first.

We suggest liquid chlorine for the
SLAM Process & daily chlorination instead of trichlor, dichlor, or cal hypo as it doesn’t add cya or calcium which can cause issues if they are allowed to get too high.
IMG_8363_Original.jpeg
As we mentioned you must have your own adequate testing supplies to complete all these procedures & know where you’re starting from. Without them you will just be blindly throwing money into the pool & hoping it works out.
You must have at minimum:
- an fas/dpd test
(Accurately tests fc & cc separately from 0.5 up to 50ppm), imperative for maintaining slam level & performing oclt & ocgt
- cya turbidity test
(So you can be certain of your cya level & chlorinate accordingly) otherwise you may be using too much chlorine which is wasteful & can damage surfaces/equipment/swimmers
Or using too little chlorine which will be ineffective in your fight against algae.
You also need to know all the other parameters- ph, ta, ch & salt (measured independently of the swcg readout)
Test Strips don’t cut it.
The Taylor k2006C + k1766 salt or tf100 salt have all these.
Without accurate data we are just guessing.
Please check the links that kim posted about sourcing the proper tests.
***Until you can get a kit in & test yourself you can add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite/ plain bleach)
to the pool each day infront of a running return to keep things from getting worse. NOTHING ELSE.
Use PoolMath to calculate amounts using your pool’s volume & bleach strength %.
 
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When I shock it the level of chlorine is obviously very high. After 4 - 6 days that drops and on the test strip is white, no colour.
Algae starts out as not visible. It’s only when it’s out of control that it becomes visible green. Just adding shock for a day can clear up just enough to hide it for a bit but it’s still there. Read through the basics on CYA and how to actually get rid of algae.
 
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Algae starts out as not visible. It’s only when it’s out of control that it becomes visible green. Just adding shock for a day can clear up just enough to hide it for a bit but it’s still there. Read through the basics on CYA and how to actually get rid of algae.

I put 600 - 800 US$ worth of chemicals into the pool over the last 2 months. The pools guys thought it would last me a year. Stabiliser, salt, acid is all topped up. I have had the pool for 14 years and never had an issue like this. I built it and managed it, no major issues. No offence but at this point the last thing I want is to import a test kit (which I am likely not going to use more than a few times a year) and go through a tedious testing process for several days. In that case I rather purchase or borrow another cell and see if it solves the problem.
 
Here is another source for a good test kit that is not in the US.

For right now find and use some liquid chlorine in your pool to keep it from getting any worse.

Have you found Pool Math yet? If not look here:
PoolMath

Hi Kim,

If I put regular Chlorox inside it and it is a gallon bottle, the pool being about 15,000 - 20,000 gallons, how much should I put in and how often? I also have chlorine granules which are sold by the pound and chlorine 3" tablets, and also stronger chlorine which is more costly. This pool is broking me, I never had issues like this. Thanks

PS: Please share the best source where to purchase a new cell in the USA, I have a friend flying down in a week?
 

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