Intellichlor IC40 - Replace?

1000RR

Member
Oct 12, 2023
11
Florida
Pool Size
9500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I think this may be my first post, although a long time lurker and follower of the TFP approach/methodologies. I've had a regular chlorine pool for almost 10 years previously. Just moved into a new house with a relatively new (2.5yrs old) salt water pool. It is fully automated with an EasyTouch Control Center so I've been learning a lot since we've moved in (a month ago).

The reason I'm posting today is to confirm my suspicion that my Intellichlor IC40 needs replaced. It's gone into "Cold Water Cutoff" mode. Intellichlor manual states it should go into this mode at 52 degrees +/- 3. The pool is at 65-66 degrees as indicated by the EasyTouch and ScreenLogic App as well as a highly accurate digital thermometer I stuck in the pool to double check. All indicate the pool is 65-66 degrees.

From day one (when we bought the house a month ago), it (Intellichlor/ScreenLogic) has never indicated salt level (on my ScreenLogic, it's always displayed ZERO). But no lights on the chlorinator were indicating low salt or any other issues (at first). My chlorine level was floating around 10ppm and I had my chlorinator set to 0% but it was holding at 9-10ppm consistently (and not decreasing over time as I would anticipate). So all along I've been think the chlorinator was producing [a little] chlorine even though I had it set to 0%. But being new to the SWG pools and the Pentair equipment, I thought I'd wait and see what it did. Well, about a week ago I noticed that the red light (on the IC40) was on (wasn't before) for the Cold Water Cutoff. I went in to the diagnostic mode of the unit and it reads 40% (4000 hrs) on the life/usage and when I'd hit the up button again to see what temp it was reading, no lights would come on for temp. After a few days (of the Red Light for the Cold Water Cutoff), my chlorine levels began dropping (so it was definitely not producing chlorine any more). So after some research, I was sure it was a the flow/temp sensor. I purchased 2 of them figuring they are known to go out and I would have a spare. I replaced the sensor and initially, on startup, I saw a salt reading on my ScreenLogic phone App of 4600 (my actual salt level is about 3500-3600). But whatever, I had a reading and never had before so I thought we were heading in the right direction. Well, shortly after (minute or 2) it went into Cold Water Cutoff again. I went into diagnostic mode, it still read 40% (4000) hours of use and now is reading the 40% light for temp (so 40 degrees +/-5... still way off. So then I thought I'd disconnect [only} the wires for the temp sensor portion of the flow sensor to see if it would try and default to 77 degrees as I thought I read somewhere it would do... and thereby start running again. No luck, still got the red light. I went into diagnostic mode again and ironically it was still reporting 40 degrees (temp sensor not even hooked up, just flow sensor wiring (red and black) was connected) - odd. So I thought I'd try the other new sensor out and wire it in... same exact results. So then I thought I'd put the original sensor back in. It's now reading the 40% light for temp (so 40 degrees like the others). So 3 sensors (2 brand new) are reading 40 degrees so the SWCG being in cutoff mode seems legit (from that aspect)... but the problem is it's no where near that temp... the water is 65-66 degrees. So I'm pretty convinced the SWG is needing replaced as the temp issue is internal to the unit and nothing to do with the flow/temp sensor.

Any other thoughts/suggestions?

If it's helpful - I am fully balanced on the pool, salt is 3500-3600. Pool is ~9500 gallons running an Intelliflo VSF pump, Intellichlor IC40, Max-e-therm 400 for the jacuzzi, and an EasyTouch Control Center.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Sounds like you did all the right things. Let’s see if @Jimrahbe has any other ideas.
 
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Thanks Allen!

I should have noted above that the IC40 was cleaned too.... a couple/few weeks back so I'm confident there's no build-up.

The latest: You just can't make this stuff up. The pool increased 1 degree today (just a data point) and is now 67 degrees. I checked my Alerts on the ScreenLogic App and I'll be Darn if there were NONE. The Cold Water Cutoff was no longer there. So I went out and checked on the Chlorinator. No Red light... hmmm... So I put it into Diagnostic Mode, still says 40% (4000 hrs) life/useage but this time the temp lit up both the 40 and 60% lights. So basically it's reading around 50 degrees +/-5 now. Then when it goes to get out of the diagnostic mode, it goes straight to a red light for Cold Water Cutoff. Werid. So I try to go diagnostic mode again and the IC40 reboots basically going into startup mode with the red and green lights blinking for the salt... then once it's done it'll start operating correctly. If I go back to diagnostic mode, it'll do the exact same routine as mentioned above.

I think it (the IC40) overheard me talking on the phone today and ordering a brand new one. It figured it should try and get its **** together. Still not doing a great job of it. Oh and the salt level is now reading 3900 (a first I had ever really seen it read salt at all). So I'm thinking there are some internal issues that are just on the brink of getting worse. Things just aren't right with it.
 
@JamesW - I did all that already (read 1st post). Those were all my initial thoughts as well. No luck with that.

UPDATE after last night: Pool dropped 2 degrees (now 64) and back to cold water shutoff. The new chlorinator will be here this week.
 
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One thing I always despise is doing searches, finding a similar issue as what I'm having, and then the author never updates the thread to conclude what the fix and results were. So here's the update.

UPDATE: I picked up the new chlorinator yesterday and when I got home, the old one seemed to be working again. I contemplated keeping it in there but knew it probably wouldn't be long before it was up to its old shenanigan again. Plus I registered the new Chlorinator with Pentair so my warranty was clicking down. So after last night, the chlorinator again went into Cold Water Cutoff. I checked the temp it was reading through the diagnostics (discussed above) and it was still thinking/reading the water temp as 40 degrees (it's still in the 60's). So I swapped them out. New one is installed and operating perfectly so far. I checked the temp it was reading, it said 60 degrees (as it should).

So what I took away from it all was: I'd do the exact same thing as I did in post #1 initially. Change out the flow/temp sensor, try dropping out the temp side wiring (mentioned in post #1) as that's often the culprit. Fortunately I had 2 new ones and so I tried them both. Since that didn't fix it, I figured it was time to replace the cell. So you could have a bad sensor causing your issue but there's also some electronics inside the cell that could be causing similar issues (temp related) which was my case.
 
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One thing I always despise is doing searches, finding a similar issue as what I'm having, and then the author never updates the thread to conclude what the fix and results were.

Appreciate the update for all future searchers.
 
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Keep and see if you can milk it once it's warmer.

Also, never clean the cell without visible scale. Use vinegar first for less wear on the (unobtainium?) plates after scraping them with something non metallic like a popsicle stick.
 
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Keep and see if you can milk it once it's warmer.

Also, never clean the cell without visible scale. Use vinegar first for less wear on the (unobtainium?) plates after scraping them with something non metallic like a popsicle stick.
I was thinking the same thing on keeping it and using it when it's warmer out... may wait until the warranty is out on the existing one since I'm on the clock with that one anyway.

Good to know on the vinegar too, that makes total sense. I had heard/read before that doing acid washes can decrease the life. Is that just because it takes a toll on the blade material themselves?
 
Is that just because it takes a toll on the blade material themselves?
Yeah. The acid strips the Ruthium coating that makes the magic happen and the cells say right on them to clean them every 3 months. Mine sat in straight acid for 6.5 hours (over its shortened lifespan) before I learned better. With TFP balanced water, scaling is rare and there's no need to clean the cell.

Folks have used plenty of things like wooden BBQ skewers or plastic spoon handles to knock off the bulk of the toothpaste like buildup. Then vinegar might get the rest. A strong acid is a last resort.
 
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Yeah. The acid strips the Ruthium coating that makes the magic happen and the cells say right on them to clean them every 3 months. Mine sat in straight acid for 6.5 hours (over its shortened lifespan) before I learned better. With TFP balanced water, scaling is rare and there's no need to clean the cell.

Folks have used plenty of things like wooden BBQ skewers or plastic spoon handles to knock off the bulk of the toothpaste like buildup. Then vinegar might get the rest. A strong acid is a last resort.
Had a feeling that might be the case. Good to know - thanks for the insight.

We just bought this house a month ago and I think the previous fella tried but when he left me his test kit and it only did chlorine and PH I was a little concerned. I have a full/complete kit. When I came with the pool inspector for inspections, he also had the chlorinator running at 100% and when the pool guy asked why, he just said that's what they set it at (new pool 2.5yrs ago). And then I tested the CYA and it was at ZERO. I kept getting these hints that he didn't quite know what he was doing but thought he knew enough that he was fine. It's such a nice set of equipment and pool/jacuzzi that I'm glad it's in good hands now - mine. I've got it all balanced and heading in the right direction now.
 
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We got you now. We'll be your training wheels until *you're* paying it forward helping folks. :)
I've been following the TFP approach for a number of years now and it's served me well. Hopefully this thread is a start on paying it forward for the next person that runs into similar issues. It was difficult to find everything in one spot (including removing the temp sensor wiring from the circuit) as well as a conclusion of what ended up fixing their issues.

Thanks again for your insight above!
 
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It had everything in there but maybe it wasn't clear it was all Pentair?!
I didn't check it before to know, but It's great now. (y)

For anyone else stumbling across this thread, listing the model #s is more important than the manufacturer. Anyone helping knows who makes the RJ60 / IC60 / T-15, (or pump #s, filter #s, etc), but if it only says the manufacturer, each brand has a couple models and which one it is might matter.
 
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Yep, use the new IC40 while its warranty is active. Then try the old one when it's warmer out. Also, hang on to it, even if you determine for sure it's done. The weakest link in an IC is its flow switch / temp sensor combo. That could be defective, but if it's not, it'll make a good back part for your new IC.
 
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