Board Repair

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mas985 said:
Not just those, the ones on the left and the ones below which power the equipment on/off.
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I see signs of damage on K1 and K2. 7,8,9,10,11 relays appear on inspection to be fine I will take my multimeter to them. I wish I had a schematic so I can check all the traces but I think I can figure it out. I am not positive what you are referring to "the ones that power equiptment on and off"
 
I suspect what happened was that K2 failed and then created a short with K3 when the polarity changed. This probably caused a cascade of other failures. It may or may not be salvagble. K2 & possibly K3 need to be replaced.

More than likely the fuse on the right most side of the board is also gone.
 
mas985 said:
The Omron relays below the main board that look like this:

View attachment 543871
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I really appreciate everyones help here! Yes I see them! So I need to test K1 K2 K3 and 4-7 and these. Am I looking for a short between the + and - of the primary coil in the relay or a short on the contacts?
 
My guess it is k2 that was the problem but it is probably worth the effort to check the rest and yes, you are checking for short in the coil since that is what the driver is connected to. The coil is likely to be low resistance but not zero so use the most sensitive setting.

Oh and it is probably a good idea to remove the bad driver so that doesn't affect the measurement. You only need to test the relays from that bad driver.
 
This is basic but probably hard for one to describe. On the bottom side I see 5 terminals that relate to the relay (btw no longer available at mouser or digikey) which 2 am I testing? I will send picture in about an hour
 
Where is the power wires to the pumps connected to?

VS pumps should be connected to continuous power. It sounds like yours is not.

If your pump power comes from LOAD side of the Aqualogic relays then change them to connect to the LINE screws to get continuous power.
 
william13 said:
This is basic but probably hard for one to describe. On the bottom side I see 5 terminals that relate to the relay (btw no longer available at mouser or digikey) which 2 am I testing? I will send picture in about an hour
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On the top of the K1-3 relays, there is a diagram which shows the connections on the bottom. The ones marked with the red arrow is the coil.

1702072357068.png
 
ajw22 said:
Where is the power wires to the pumps connected to?

VS pumps should be connected to continuous power. It sounds like yours is not.

If your pump power comes from LOAD side of the Aqualogic relays then change them to connect to the LINE screws to get continuous power.
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There are line in and load terminals labelled pump. I guess I will jump them. Thank you
 

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mas985 said:
I suspect what happened was that K2 failed and then created a short with K3 when the polarity changed. This probably caused a cascade of other failures. It may or may not be salvagble. K2 & possibly K3 need to be replaced.

More than likely the fuse on the right most side of the board is also gone.
Click to expand...
I removed u4 which was not easy because it was like a piece of charcoal that crumbled. So I had to snip each lead and solder suck the remnants out. Under the u4 the board was superficially charred in some places and not so superficially charred in others. There appears to be a fair amount of connectivity of the u4 to the U5 so some of the traces survived. Some have continuity and others don't with the U4 but without a schematic I am left guessing if that is by design or by fate. As mentioned before the K2 is charred below. The largest terminal on the k2 is fried and so is the largest terminal on the K1 but this happened previously. Update. Multimeter testing results. On k2 without U4 there is no continuity between terminals 2 and 6 (refer to image 1 the omron diagram).
There is continuity between 5 and 4 and 5 and 3 and also (of course) 3 and 4. On K3 there is low resistance between 2 and 6. The rest of the findings are the same ie 5 and 4, 5 and 3, 3 and 4, all have continuity. K 1 coil has low resistance ie 2,6. 5 has continuity with 4 but not 3 and 3 and 4 have no continuity. Do I need to check the main relays below the board still? Also 2 physical things. You can see that on the K2 the terminal 5 has significant damage but I think I can repair that. Under u4 on the top of board you will see a horizontal copper strip where u4 used to be. I think that is simply a trace exposed by the burnt board and I intend to tape it but you can see the damage. Beside that and the K1 terminal 5 the board looks good. So I am attempted to try the repair and think about (as a realistic backup plan an upgrade of the board with the Omni PL. (I really should make sure there are no shorts anywhere else if I go that route). I know there is a lot of detail I have listed here and I thank you for your patience and help. Addenum; amazingly the fuse did not blow but it cracked when I tried to remove so I will need another. All measurements of Relays on in board measurements without u4.

Bill
 

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william13 said:
Got it! Probably easier. Then I am guessing the Pentair pumps probably have their own timers so I don't have to 24 7 them until I figure out what to do with board.
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Your Pentair pumps have control panels. Find the manuals for them online and learn how they can be controlled.
 
william13 said:
I removed u4 which was not easy because it was like a piece of charcoal that crumbled. So I had to snip each lead and solder suck the remnants out. Under the u4 the board was superficially charred in some places and not so superficially charred in others. There appears to be a fair amount of connectivity of the u4 to the U5 so some of the traces survived. Some have continuity and others don't with the U4 but without a schematic I am left guessing if that is by design or by fate. As mentioned before the K2 is charred below. The largest terminal on the k2 is fried and so is the largest terminal on the K1 but this happened previously. Update. Multimeter testing results. On k2 without U4 there is no continuity between terminals 2 and 6 (refer to image 1 the omron diagram).
There is continuity between 5 and 4 and 5 and 3 and also (of course) 3 and 4. On K3 there is low resistance between 2 and 6. The rest of the findings are the same ie 5 and 4, 5 and 3, 3 and 4, all have continuity. K 1 coil has low resistance ie 2,6. 5 has continuity with 4 but not 3 and 3 and 4 have no continuity.
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Sounds like both K2 & K3 are bad. I would suggest replacing U5 as well because U4 and U5 share some of the traces so it would not be surprising if that failed too. They are pretty cheap anyway.

william13 said:
Do I need to check the main relays below the board still?
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Probably not. I suspect the problem was the failure of one or both K2/3. Also, the coils of relays are most likely to fail open rather than closed.

william13 said:
Also 2 physical things. You can see that on the K2 the terminal 5 has significant damage but I think I can repair that. Under u4 on the top of board you will see a horizontal copper strip where u4 used to be. I think that is simply a trace exposed by the burnt board and I intend to tape it but you can see the damage. Beside that and the K1 terminal 5 the board looks good. So I am attempted to try the repair and think about (as a realistic backup plan an upgrade of the board with the Omni PL. (I really should make sure there are no shorts anywhere else if I go that route). I know there is a lot of detail I have listed here and I thank you for your patience and help. Addenum; amazingly the fuse did not blow but it cracked when I tried to remove so I will need another. All measurements of Relays on in board measurements without u4.

Bill
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Sounds like a good plan.
 
mas985 said:
Sounds like both K2 & K3 are bad. I would suggest replacing U5 as well because U4 and U5 share some of the traces so it would not be surprising if that failed too. They are pretty cheap anyway.


Probably not. I suspect the problem was the failure of one or both K2/3. Also, the coils of relays are most likely to fail open rather than closed.


Sounds like a good plan.
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possible hurdle. With my magnifiers I noticed C10 is missing from the board. It sits right next to another ? capacitor above the U4. I think it says 200 F but I can't make it out. Would you know? No rush. Thanks
 

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That is R9 and it looks like it is toast as well. Unfortunately, I don't know the values of either.

Might be time to punt.
 

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