Agreed, sorry I was thinking of the tubes. So If I can assume that chemistry is not the issue and I know that that the equipment is grounded and I also know that it is not bonded, where do I go with this? Thoughts since tearing up my concrete deck is not really an option.
Premature Failure of Hayward H250ED2C
- Thread starter MarkHoop
- Start date
The gas line is pristine like the day it was installed. I am unable to see a bond wire in or around the pool equipment anywhere so assuming that there isn't one. Am I doing help or harm by bonding all of the equipment currently in the building (pump, heater, SWG, gas line etc)?
And the more puzzling question is why this heater is failing rapidly when the original heater lasted for 15 years?
Here are the pics of my pool equipment. As you can see no rusty gas line and all other equipment seems fine but clearly the equipment is not bonded together....
Attachments
Also spoke to an electrician and they indicated that bonding for shell pools was not required until after 2010. They indicated that they have seen pool heaters of this same brand go due to poor material of construction and he points to the pictures of the internal valve that has basically dissolved. My issue is that Hayward is going to say poor water chemistry which as mentioned I do not believe
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,287
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Are you running the heater year round?
Describe when and how the heater is used?
I think your heater may be a victim of corrosive condensation - Heater Condensation - Further Reading
Older heater models had different draft designs that affected the way they woudl operate and their lifespan.
What model heater did you have that lasted 15 years?
Describe when and how the heater is used?
I think your heater may be a victim of corrosive condensation - Heater Condensation - Further Reading
Older heater models had different draft designs that affected the way they woudl operate and their lifespan.
What model heater did you have that lasted 15 years?
Not year round as we are in Ontario Canada. Open is typically in April and close is now. The heater is electronic so we set it to 84° and leave it. Doesn't really run much in the summer due to the warm weather and religious use of a solar cover.
The original heater was also electronic and used in the same manner and was a Jandy Lite 2 Model LJ
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,287
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The Jandy Lite 2 heater is a natural draft design with open burner tubes while the Hayward H Series is a forced draft design with an air blower and sealed burner can. Very different heaters that have different strengths and weaknesses.
Is there a door on that equipment shack? I wonder if the heater is getting adequate air intake.
Is there a door on that equipment shack? I wonder if the heater is getting adequate air intake.
The pool shed has a door with a screened window in it and there is also a large bifold window in the bar area. The entire building is ~ 900 cubic feet
The issue with a condensation theory is how does this explain that the bypass valve spring and rod broke/dissolved when it is internal to the flow path in the heater and not exposed to the low pH condensate?
Would opening up the heater to expose the burner and tray provide any further evidence?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,287
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you can disassemble everything and show more pictures, that might show something that would help us diagnose the problem.
It looks like you have a lot of iron in the water, but that would not cause corrosion.
Overall, I do not see anything yet that points in any specific direction.
Overall, I do not see anything yet that points in any specific direction.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,287
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The confined space shall be provided with 2 permanent openings communicating directly with an additional
room(s) of sufficient volume so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the criteria for an unconfined
space (a space whose volume is not less than 50 cubic feet per 1,000 btu/hr).
250x50= 12,500 cubic feet of space for required air flow.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,287
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It is in a 900 cu-ft out building with a steel door and internal screen that isn't closed. There is also a bifold bar window but that is typically closed. Considering the manual asks for 61 sq-in of open venting I don't think that the unit is starved for air. I look under the burner tubes and it is dusty but no signs of condensation.
Understood and agreed however with the 61 sq-in of vent required as per the manual and the screen in the door always being open I would suggest that there is enough air....IMO
This is the back side of the HX tubes...green is copper no?
Attachments
Yes, that is copper.
It is definitely odd that the copper looks like that.
The only thing that I can think of that would cause internal and external corrosion is electrical.
However, other metal components, like the gas line would probably be affected, but the other metals look good.
Stray currents can be very difficult to detect and to diagnose.
Maybe have an electrician check everything and do any bonding if it is required.
It is definitely odd that the copper looks like that.
The only thing that I can think of that would cause internal and external corrosion is electrical.
However, other metal components, like the gas line would probably be affected, but the other metals look good.
Stray currents can be very difficult to detect and to diagnose.
Maybe have an electrician check everything and do any bonding if it is required.