Testing kits question - new pool fill

[SecoSteve]

Looks like pool math doesn't list the Nature 2 Fusion I have. I see Jandy though. I'll try to locate the Nature manual left for me then locate the 24 hour output and match it to one of the Jandy models...does that work?

You want to select Jandy Aquapure 1400 which gives 1.25lbs/day. I hope your PB didn't give you the 700 version.

 

[JC707]

You want to select Jandy Aquapure 1400 which gives 1.25lbs/day. I hope your PB didn't give you the 700 version.

I took pics of the delivery Tag on palet plus the box I will double check. Will also check the sticker on the SWG when I get home. My crummy luck it's the 700 but hopefully not lol.

 

[JC707]

View attachment 532381


Hours 'on' is hours on. 12 hours producing is 12 hours lost from 10k expected. No more, no less.

Yup. You can run the pump 24, but the SWG only 12, or you can run both 24 and have the SWG at 50%. I prefer the SWG at 24 and then just 40%, 60% (etc) as necessary. It basically keeps the FC topped off around the clock instead of having 12(?) hours to drift down a little until the cell kicks back on. As the season winds down I just dropped to 20% from 40%. During the peak season I needed 60%/24.

In regards to pump running, does SWG need a certain RPM in order to function properly?

 

[Newdude]

My crummy luck it's the 700 but hopefully not lol.

At worst it will produce enough FC for most of the year running 100% 24/7. You would likely need to supplement it with LC during the peak season as it can only produce 3.4 FC per 24.

You may still be able to upgrade it before it's 'used' if it's the 700.

Or you'll have to deal for a while but will reach your 10k hours in 2 to 3 looooooong CA seasons and buy the 1400 as a replacement when the time comes.

In regards to pump running, does SWG need a certain RPM in order to function properly?

Only what triggers the flow switch. It's either on or off and more/less flow doesn't change the output

 

[JC707]

 

[Newdude]

Ok GREAT. Here's your stats but your homework is to play with it and figure out how PM works so you can easily find what adjustments will do.




There's usually some fine tuning also. Even if estimated volume is dead on, it'll fluctuate with rain and evaporation. +/-2 inches from perfect is 1122 gallons for a 15×30 rectangle. Or the unit doesn't quite perform at optimal output.

So test and adapt with how it behaves.

 

[JC707]

When I test Salt later and say it's 1 bag shy of mark, can I still turn on SWG or wait until I get the Salt level up?

 

[Newdude]

When I test Salt later and say it's 1 bag shy of mark, can I still turn on SWG or wait until I get the Salt level up?

Sure. But add away from drians/skimmers and brush with their locations in mind so that it stays in the shallow end and will be well mixed by the time it makes it to any suction points.

 

[JC707]

Picked a good time to do all this.....

Suppose to rain somewhat over night - maybe just showers tho. I need to do some reading on Pools and rain ASAP. What adjustments to make etc.

 

[Newdude]

I need to do some reading on Pools and rain ASAP

It inconsequential. A 6 inch whopper (rare) of a storm will only dilute you 10% in a 60 inch average depth pool. If 10% is enough to foul you up, you had issues before the rain.

 

[Newdude]

*another benefit of 24/7. You won't have to remember to mix well during/after big storms. Otherwise you could have a couple inches of 0FC water festering on top for up to 12 hours before the pump kicked on again.

But yeah. I had many friends with pools and they almost always went cloudy or green with rain. So much so I fought against getting a pool, not wanting that headache myself. It turns out they were spiraling out if control before and the rain was the straw that broke the camels back. I've never had one hiccup with properly clorinating and 24/7 mixing since 2012.

 

[JC707]

Tested salt at 2600. Added 2 more bags of salt just now should put me around 3000-3100.

Gotta say PM is pretty dang accurate! I added 9 bags (360lbs) of salt yesterday and with my salt levels in pool before adding bags, PM said I'd be Approx 2600 and that's what I tested at!

I guess that also confirms my gallons calculation when I filled pool was solid

I think I'll start up SWG tomorrow morning, studying up what @Newdude gave me!

 

[Newdude]

Yes to both. But also realize the wide testing variance of the salt kit. As the salinity goes up, so does the variance. In range it may be +/- 400, so your 2600 may really be 3000 or 2200. Go gentle with adjustments until you've had several go to plan and you trust what it will do.

 

[JC707]

This brings up a question. So my panel shows 3400 salt reading just now, say I test tomorrow at 3100....with the variance you mention, which number would I want to follow?

Reason I ask is I read I can calibrate my panel salt # as I read it's normally off. My plan was to calibrate it to my salt test number from the salt testing kit...but now with that variance you mentioned not sure I should.

 

[Newdude]

The cell and salt meters use conductivity to measure the salinity and are off more than the drops. Other metals such as calcium make it more conductive, and water temp plays a role too.

with the variance you mention, which number would I want to follow?

Always Taylor, but if Taylor is telling you you're close, and the cell is happy, life is good.

On the flip side, you can calibrate the cell but you can't argue with it if it continues to disagree with you. So if the cell is saying you need salt you can make sure that Taylor says you aren't already high, and then add a bag to shut the cell up.

My plan was to calibrate it to my salt test number from the salt testing kit...but now with that variance you mentioned not sure I should.

Go for it. Gotta get familiar and see how that behaves also.

 

[SecoSteve]

This is where I believe a pool store test is ok. Take the same sample to two different pool stores and also test the same sample with your K-1766 salt test. You should then be able to get a true salt value. Then, if the panel doesn't agree with the other tests, you should calibrate the Aquapure. It's very simple to calibrate. I have done it a couple of times with my cell.

 

[duraleigh]

This is where I believe a pool store test is ok.

I can't think of a circumstance where pool store testing is "OK".

Pool store testing simply doesn't have accuracy and DEPENDABILITY on it's side. I believe it is better to learn and rely on your own testing rather than trusting results from a pool store

 

[SecoSteve]

In this case, being new to the salt test, it wouldn't be wise to recalibrate his panel based solely on one salt test. The test is easy to interpret, but until one gets comfortable using the K-1766, having even one outside test could provide enough assurance to recalibrate. Now, if the pool store test gives way different salt content, then you have to trust the K-1766. But, if it's in line with the K-1766, recalibrate away.

 

[dfwnoob]

With a Speed/SmartStir, the K-1766 test isn't exactly rocket science. It's not like the CYA test with a learning curve. If my Taylor salt tests gives me the same result 2-3 times in a row, then I'll take that as an accurate reading and calibrate from there. I don't see how pool store testing helps here. What happens if you get 3 wildly different results between the K-1766 and the pool stores (which is likely, given how rubbish the testing is). Then what?

 

[kellyfair]

In this case, being new to the salt test, it wouldn't be wise to recalibrate his panel based solely on one salt test. The test is easy to interpret, but until one gets comfortable using the K-1766, having even one outside test could provide enough assurance to recalibrate. Now, if the pool store test gives way different salt content, then you have to trust the K-1766. But, if it's in line with the K-1766, recalibrate away.

I‘m confused. There is no subjectivity with the K-1766. Why wouldn’t one rely on it?