Chlorine or SWG

[npawelek]

I inherited a chlorine pool when we purchased our house in south Texas a few years back. I bought a Taylor K2006 test kit and have been using that to monitor levels every 2-3 days. Unfortunately, I've maintained the guidance/recommendations from Leslie's, which I now realize was a mistake that resulted in an rather poor experience... particularly around adding chemicals. With the Texas heat as it is right now, I've been using 1-2 tabs a week and supplementing with 70% cal hypo when the FC drops low. I've found myself continually battling algae, which hasn't been horrible, but has been quite tenacious and consumes more time than I'd like. pH swings are also an issue because of high TA levels (which were maintained around 80-ish when adjusted according to the pool store recommendations). To make matters worse, the spa has a spillway that adds to the problem. This week I've been in the process to fixing the pool chemistry and leveraging the TFP methodology, which has raised a few concerns around the liquid chlorine aspect.

I will likely need 3-5 gallons of liquid chlorine (10%) to get through the week. We have a curious toddler running around right now so I'm not sure it makes sense to keep in the house where I can better control the loss of potency. This means I would be keeping it outside in the garage where the temps are consistently over 100F because it's not insulated. This has made me wonder if I'd be better off converting to SWG and easing that burden. My particular issue is around whether or not my pool is compatible... It was built in 2011 and has a considerable amount of rocks (not sure what type), built into the spillway and around the edge of a good one-third of the pool perimeter. Would it be a mistake to convert to a SWG? Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here's what I'm working with.

 

[Newdude]

My particular issue is around whether or not my pool is compatible

Liquid chlorine pools are never advised to monitor their salt levels, yet they approach or match 'salt pool' salinity. (10% or seawater). But call it a 'salt pool' and everyone loses their minds.

SWGs are the bees knees. If you have stone or other poor quality materials prone to weathering, they will do so either way.

 

[PoolStored]

Would it be a mistake to convert to a SWG?

No. You are the perfect candidate. I wish I would have converted sooner.

 

[pjt]

I bought a Taylor K2006 test kit and have been using that to monitor levels every 2-3 days.

Post a complete set of test results.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

I've been using 1-2 tabs a week

This will result in excessive CYA.

I've found myself continually battling algae

Because of the excessive CYA and not enough chlorine.

supplementing with 70% cal hypo

This will result in excessive calcium.

tedious and consumes more time than I'd like.

Then get a SWCG and make your life much easier.

pH swings are also an issue because of high TA levels

Lower TA levels (50-60) will dramatically help with pH rise. What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

I will likely need 3-5 gallons of liquid chlorine (10%) to get through the week.

Probably at least 5.

My particular issue is around whether or not my pool is compatible

You may already have a significant amount of salt in your water right now. Measure it with a K-1766 test kit.

Would it be a mistake to convert to a SWG?

No. The small amount of salt needed to operate a SWCG won't damage your pool. SWCG is by far the easiest and cheapest way to chlorinate your pool. It's the ideal solution for our climate.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here's what I'm working with.

Beautiful pool!

 

[npawelek]

Great, thank you all for the sentiment. I was a bit worried that a SWG would be a bad idea. I'm relieved to hear it's not! I will definitely be looking into this in the near future, maybe once the pool season is over for the year.

Post a complete set of test results.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

FC 7.4
CC 0
pH 7.1
TA 70
CH 375
CYA 75
Salt Unknown

A few items worth noting:
* pH - Added 70oz of MA a few hours ago (dropped pH to 7) and continuing to aggressively aerate to bring pH back up.
* TA - This is the non-adjusted value (which seems to be how it's handled with TFP). I'm targeting 60 which I should be able to achieve tomorrow. I started with a TA of 110 (unadjusted) 3 days ago.
* CYA - This reading was from the pool store. I've since stopped using tabs and I'm awaiting non-expired CYA reagents. Once we're out of drought restrictions, I will drain and refill a portion of the pool to lower CYA.
* Salt - Not sure it's currently relevant as today was my first use of LC to manage FC. Nothing else should have significantly affected salt levels up until now.

 

[Newdude]

Not sure it's currently relevant as today was my first use of LC to manage FC. Nothing else should have significantly affected salt levels up until now

It's any chlorine, which has been added for years one way or the other. It's also pretty much anything else that's been added as well as most are either salts, or break down into salt.

Only 1 or 2 ppm per dose, mind you, but it adds up over time.

 

[Bperry]

Great, thank you all for the sentiment. I was a bit worried that a SWG would be a bad idea. I'm relieved to hear it's not! I will definitely be looking into this in the near future, maybe once the pool season is over for the year.



FC 7.4
CC 0
pH 7.1
TA 70
CH 375
CYA 75
Salt Unknown

A few items worth noting:
* pH - Added 70oz of MA a few hours ago (dropped pH to 7) and continuing to aggressively aerate to bring pH back up.
* TA - This is the non-adjusted value (which seems to be how it's handled with TFP). I'm targeting 60 which I should be able to achieve tomorrow. I started with a TA of 110 3 days ago.
* CYA - This reading was from the pool store. I've since stopped using tabs and I'm awaiting non-expired CYA reagents. Once we're out of drought restrictions, I will drain and refill a portion of the pool to lower CYA.
* Salt - Not sure it's currently relevant as today was my first use of LC to manage FC. Nothing else should have significantly affected salt levels up until now.

Your CYA is just fine for a salt pool and not that bad for liquid chlorine. No need to drain it, especially since the CYA test seems to be the one pool stores get wrong the most.

 

[Brian PacNW]

* Salt - Not sure it's currently relevant as today was my first use of LC to manage FC. Nothing else should have significantly affected salt levels up until now.

Tricolor tabs add salt.

In Pool Math app go to “Effects of Adding” under the hamburger menu. Put in your weekly tab amount and you’ll see how much salt you’re adding each week.

 

[PoolStored]

You CYA should be recorded as 80. Always read CYA at the lines on the tube.

Use this tool to chlorinate for your CYA. Link==>FC/CYA Levels

You should maintain your FC higher...

 

[PoolStored]

^^^^This is why this -->

I've found myself continually battling algae

 

[npawelek]

This all makes sense. Didn't realize that the trichlor also adds a small amount of salt.

Your CYA is just fine for a salt pool and not that bad for liquid chlorine. No need to drain it, especially since the CYA test seems to be the one pool stores get wrong the most.

Yeah, valid point. I won't have to do anything with CYA when I eventually convert to SWG. I've been eyeing the Atlas Scientific pool kit for a while now, so I might need to rethink my options to account for a salt conversion and future proof the system.

Since I already have a Pentair Easy Touch controller, would the Intellichlor be preferred? Would the IC60 be required for 22K gal in Texas?

 

[Newdude]

Since I already have a Pentair Easy Touch controller, would the Intellichlor be preferred?

Yes.

Would the IC60 be required for 22K gal in Texas?

Not required as a IC40 would only have to run 14 hours a day or so in the peak season, but an IC60 has an even better ROI with 50% more lifespan at about 20% more cost. (With no sales). It would produce rhe same FC in 9 or 10 hours, possibly saving pump electric costs as well. Your season is long and hot, and whichever unit you use will go through its rated 10k hours quicker than mine in NY

 

[PoolStored]

I won't have to do anything with CYA when I eventually convert to SWG.

Cya degrades over time. You will be adding CYA over time.

 

[Bperry]

I've been eyeing the Atlas Scientific pool kit for a while now, so I might need to rethink my options to account for a salt conversion and future proof the system.

Don’t waste your money on it.

 

[npawelek]

Don’t waste your money on it.

Why do you say this? I understand you should always continue to manually test. I'm a data nerd and enjoy home automation, so I figured it would be a fun project .

 

[dfwnoob]

ORP isn't really a great analogue for FAS-DPD drop tests, and about the only thing you're going to really get useful out of it is temperature. Electronic pH meters need to be calibrated. So, it doesn't really do anything well besides reading the temp, which nearly all automation does anyway.

 

[Bperry]

Why do you say this? I understand you should always continue to manually test. I'm a data nerd and enjoy home automation, so I figured it would be a fun project .

ORP also doesn’t work well in the presence of CYA over about 20-30ppm. I’m not an expert on why but all of the electronic ORP monitoring systems seem to have similar problems with accuracy.

 

[BDY]

You say the pool store says CYa is 75, but have you tested it yourself? That number is critical for the FC/CYA target to hold algae at bay, and usually your own testing will be more reliable than pool store.

 

[npawelek]

You say the pool store says CYa is 75, but have you tested it yourself? That number is critical for the FC/CYA target to hold algae at bay, and usually your own testing will be more reliable than pool store.

I’m currently waiting for new reagents. Mine were expired because I never tested CYA myself.

 

[BDY]

+1 on going for the larger salt cell, esp if you stay with the IC40 vs 60. The power cell will be the same so the difference is only in cell cost. Having the bigger cell makes it not only the longer FC generation spoken about above but much more flexible for pump run times and salt cell run times. The last thing you want to so is get stuck running a lot longer than you want to (in particular if you don’t have a VSP).