I've been doing my first slam for five days now, fc has been holding steady overnight. The water is still the same, with yellow algae that appears in a cloud behind the brush and cloudy water, a bit more cloudy than when I started. At this point, I would say that my results are no better than anything I've achieved in the past with much cheaper test strips and shock.
Very Disappointed
- Thread starter Jamestown101
- Start date
Most all of our advice needs to start with results from a reliable test kit,,,,,,,,,,,not a pool store. Can you post those?
Before starting slam:
PH = 7.2
Ch = 5/10+ (solid yellow)
FC = 8.5
CC = 0
CH = 275 ppm
TA = 80
CYA = 50
Calculator = 20 slam level
Added 4.5 gallons 10% bleach
Spiked fc to 30
Over a couple of days went down to 23
Hayward sand filter
Water still the same, if not more cloudy, after five days
PH = 7.2
Ch = 5/10+ (solid yellow)
FC = 8.5
CC = 0
CH = 275 ppm
TA = 80
CYA = 50
Calculator = 20 slam level
Added 4.5 gallons 10% bleach
Spiked fc to 30
Over a couple of days went down to 23
Hayward sand filter
Water still the same, if not more cloudy, after five days
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
I know it can be frustrating! Have you been taking a picture daily of the exact same spot of the pool and comparing day to day? Sometimes it can feel like you’re not getting anywhere, but you really are. Some algae blooms take longer and the water will “appear worse” when the SLAM is actually working.
How often are you testing and dosing chlorine? How often are you brushing?
Yellow algae is exceptionally rare. You could have typical algae instead of yellow.
With a sand filter and no DE, it can take quite a while to complete a SLAM. A week or even longer. Mine took almost 2 in a 7000 gallon pool.
Sounds to me like you might be hitting the POP point and caving in and doing something out of order or not recommended. Especially with this statement. You’re doing something off the SLAM by spiking your FC, this is not recommended. Stay the course. Stay at 20.
How often are you testing and dosing chlorine? How often are you brushing?
Yellow algae is exceptionally rare. You could have typical algae instead of yellow.
With a sand filter and no DE, it can take quite a while to complete a SLAM. A week or even longer. Mine took almost 2 in a 7000 gallon pool.
Sounds to me like you might be hitting the POP point and caving in and doing something out of order or not recommended. Especially with this statement. You’re doing something off the SLAM by spiking your FC, this is not recommended. Stay the course. Stay at 20.
Exactly. It can get much more cloudy while it’s getting better.
Last edited:
That's 5 Chlorine or 10 Bromine. Just an FYI that many have missed.
How often do you test/add ?
Got pics ?
Please fill out your Signature. Your filter type/model would be a big piece of this puzzle, for example.
Thank you for the feedback.
What is a POP point?
I've been testing morning and night about 10hrs apart and since I started slam I have only tested for FC, should I test for anything else during the SLAM?
I have not dosed anymore because my SLAM was supposed to be 20 and after first dose it went to 30, so I have let it drift down and it's now at 23, do you recommend I continue to dose even if I'm over SLAM FC level?
I believe it's yellow algae because it appears yellow when I brush it into a cloud, does that change anything?
I've been brushing night and day, there is no debris and the pressure < 15, so I've only vacuumed once during SLAM, do you recommend I vacuum more?
Thank you
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
POP = Pool Owner Patience. Most people deal with pool issues by trying to buy a quick fix. Those fixes end up causing more issues later. Our methods take time, but they are certain and not detrimental to long-term health of the pool.
If you can test more often and get back to SLAM level, that would be best. That said:
No. If you’re over SLAM level then you don’t need to add more. SLAM means you are trying to Maintain the Slam Level chlorine. How did you go over? Did you miscalculate by putting in too large of a pool volume? You don’t want to go too far over SLAM level as it wastes chlorine and risks damage to pool surfaces and equipment.
Mustard algae is something specific. You may be seeing something aside from algae in the pool, too. If it were algae I don’t think your FC would stay high for so long. It could be dust, or it could be algae that is dead and working on being filtered.
How does the pool look? Is the water clear enough to see the bottom cleanly? Have you tried an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see how much chlorine is being consumed by things that aren’t the sun?
Brushing a lot will help. Do you have anywhere water can go that indirect sunlight can as well that is difficult to brush? Any pool lights that have niches, ladders, main drains? Have you scrubbed out skimmer throats, back of weir doors / weir door foam?
What test kit do you have?
Did you do an OCLT?
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared
Did you do an OCLT?
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared
TF-100
OCTL = 0
It's yellow algae (mustard algae) when I brush it, it billows up into yellow dust clouds not slime. We are near the beach and the Atlantic, which is probably the source (beach toys, bathing suits...). SLAM has given me worse results than in the past when I used cheap test strips and calhypo and ran the filter for a week. Now I have to wait for all that chlorine to burn off...I'm not impressed with TF-100 (overpriced) or SLAM (overhyped) in my honest opinion.
OCTL = 0
It's yellow algae (mustard algae) when I brush it, it billows up into yellow dust clouds not slime. We are near the beach and the Atlantic, which is probably the source (beach toys, bathing suits...). SLAM has given me worse results than in the past when I used cheap test strips and calhypo and ran the filter for a week. Now I have to wait for all that chlorine to burn off...I'm not impressed with TF-100 (overpriced) or SLAM (overhyped) in my honest opinion.
I've been using the overpriced TF-100 for my results.
TF-100
OCTL = 0
It's yellow algae (mustard algae) when I brush it, it billows up into yellow dust clouds not slime. We are near the beach and the Atlantic, which is probably the source (beach toys, bathing suits...). SLAM has given me worse results than in the past when I used cheap test strips and calhypo and ran the filter for a week. Now I have to wait for all that chlorine to burn off...I'm not impressed with TF-100 (overpriced) or SLAM (overhyped) in my honest opinion.
So am I, with no issues since 2012.
You are, however, the last area to have pollen season, in full swing right now.
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
I can almost assure you it’s not mustard algae. That is exceptionally rare.
But, one rule I’ve always made, bathers cannot get into my pool with the same suit they wore at the beach / lake without washing it first.
But, one rule I’ve always made, bathers cannot get into my pool with the same suit they wore at the beach / lake without washing it first.
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
Show me a cheaper kit that tests CYA, OTO, FAS-DPD, pH, TA, CH accurately and with as much reagents.
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
Then you did something wrong. And often, a SLAM will actually look worse before it gets better because of how dying algae can cloud the water.
JupiterFL
Silver Supporter
- Mar 28, 2023
- 128
- Pool Size
- 12638
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Life gets in the way for all of us. We get it @Jamestown101, I promise. But without being able to put the proper effort in, you can't fault the process.
The process works at any FC above min, it just takes considerably longer when the FC is consistently below SLAM.
Then a sand filter will take its sweet time clearing the dead algae from a large pool. That won't be SLAM's fault either.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,137
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You listed your tc levels with the oto test. (It only measures tc to 5ppm)
You should be using the fas/dpd test for the slam. It accurately measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm. So stick with that.
It can be frustrating to keep going but those potions/methods you mentioned may somewhat clear things up initially but aren’t truly eradicating the algae so it returns along with having to deal with the long term side effects of said various potions/products.
The
SLAM Process when followed as prescribed does work & If the proper fc/cya ratio is maintained thereafter there shouldn’t be a need to ever do it again. The slam process is set up the way it is to eradicate algae effectively & thoroughly (& prove its gone) without causing damage to surfaces, equipment, or swimmers in the process. It’s not an overnight miracle or a one & done addition of chlorine.
If you choose to proceed,
Lets also be certain of your cya level as it can be a tricky test to master. If the dot dissapears between two values be sure to round up & chlorinate accordingly.
www.troublefreepool.com
Can you post some pics of what you’re describing as mustard algae?
Is there pollen/dust on other outdoor surfaces- cars, patio etc?
A note:
The test kits we recommend are for a reason as they contain certain tests that other kits do not. Titration tests are the most reliable & affordable tests available for accurate home water testing. They are simply far superior to guess strips.
The tf100 kit is no different than the Taylor k2006 in the tests it provides except it costs less per test when you account for the extra reagents it contains. It is more equivalent to the Taylor k2006c in that respect which costs much more. They both use all Taylor reagents. If something better comes along that checks all the boxes you can bet it will become the recommended method here, until then in the US those are the recommendations.
You should be using the fas/dpd test for the slam. It accurately measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm. So stick with that.
It can be frustrating to keep going but those potions/methods you mentioned may somewhat clear things up initially but aren’t truly eradicating the algae so it returns along with having to deal with the long term side effects of said various potions/products.
The
SLAM Process when followed as prescribed does work & If the proper fc/cya ratio is maintained thereafter there shouldn’t be a need to ever do it again. The slam process is set up the way it is to eradicate algae effectively & thoroughly (& prove its gone) without causing damage to surfaces, equipment, or swimmers in the process. It’s not an overnight miracle or a one & done addition of chlorine.
If you choose to proceed,
Lets also be certain of your cya level as it can be a tricky test to master. If the dot dissapears between two values be sure to round up & chlorinate accordingly.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com
Is there pollen/dust on other outdoor surfaces- cars, patio etc?
A note:
The test kits we recommend are for a reason as they contain certain tests that other kits do not. Titration tests are the most reliable & affordable tests available for accurate home water testing. They are simply far superior to guess strips.
The tf100 kit is no different than the Taylor k2006 in the tests it provides except it costs less per test when you account for the extra reagents it contains. It is more equivalent to the Taylor k2006c in that respect which costs much more. They both use all Taylor reagents. If something better comes along that checks all the boxes you can bet it will become the recommended method here, until then in the US those are the recommendations.
Sorry that you're disappointed, but the process works.
If you are not getting good results, I would say that the problem is on your end.
