Algae in Umbrella holder

[Jeffnhelen]

TLDR; Do I need to extract the algae so it doesn’t spread or get in the filter or do I just start with a SLAM?



I noticed my SWG not keeping up with my chlorine needs lately, however, I didn’t see any clear results of a CC test indicating an issue, so figured it might need descaling. Got on the forums just in case and noticed someone reported a similar issue and algae was listed as possible symptom, but again didn’t think so since CC wasn’t showing anything. Picked up some bleach just to keep the levels up until I had a chance to check out the cell.
Couple days later I was out in the pool for the first time this season and something caught my eye while sitting on our tanning ledge. Green and brown build-up on the inside of the umbrella holder…algae . I’ve left the cap off so the wife can easily put the umbrella in since the pool was built years ago. Guess I let the chlorine levels get too low over the winter/spring and it became a breeding ground.

 

[Mdragger88]

Get the vac hose near, pour some liquid chlorine in there & scrub it out.
Hopefully be a very quick
SLAM Process .

 

[Jeffnhelen]

Get the vac hose near, pour some liquid chlorine in there & scrub it out.
Hopefully be a very quick
SLAM Process .

So it will be ok that it’s getting sucked into the filter to stay until I clean it out again at the end of the swim season or even start of next season? I’ve only been doing it once/year since gets light use and have a robot vacuum.

 

[Mdragger88]

So it will be ok that it’s getting sucked into the filter to stay until I clean it out again at the end of the swim season or even start of next season? I’ve only been doing it once/year since gets light use and have a robot vacuum.

Adequate chlorine will kill it. You should clean the filter whenever pressure rises 25% over clean pressure- whenever that is. If that doesn’t happen then once per season is fine too.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

Adequate chlorine will kill it. You should clean the filter whenever pressure rises 25% over clean pressure- whenever that is. If that doesn’t happen then once per season is fine too.

Good deal…thank you!

 

[Jeffnhelen]

One last thing I wanted to ask…is it normal to have a FAS test come back with 0 CC with this amount of algae?

 

[PoolStored]

One last thing I wanted to ask…is it normal to have a FAS test come back with 0 CC with this amount of algae?

Yep.

 

[Mdragger88]

Yes- while elevated cc’s always indicate a problem their absence doesn’t mean there isn’t one. That’s why there’s 3 criteria, not just one.
You have visible algae, that trumps all else.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

Thank you guys! Guess I never put two and two together that the indicators for successful removal of contaminants would also be an indicator of their presence
Also wish I would have not just bumped up my CYA for the season. Sitting at 90 right now even though my last addition should have put me at 70 according to Pool Math. Maybe it was too cloudy on my test day, but didn’t think I would be using this much bleach since it is still within range for a salt system.
Overnight test failed since I lost 5 FC so probably need another trip to the store for another day of SLAMing. Used almost 12 gallons yesterday.

 

[PoolStored]

Also wish I would have not just bumped up my CYA for the season. Sitting at 90 right now even though my last addition should have put me at 70 according to Pool Math. Maybe it was too cloudy on my test day, but didn’t think I would be using this much bleach since it is still within range for a salt system.

I hate to say this, but a SLAM with CYA of 90 is really difficult. While it may be a bitter pill to swallow, it might be best to replace 30-50% of your pool water, reducing your CYA to a more manageable level.

 

[Mdragger88]

I hate to say this, but a SLAM with CYA of 90 is really difficult. While it may be a bitter pill to swallow, it might be best to replace 30-50% of your pool water, reducing your CYA to a more manageable level.

This
Bleach is expensive- water is pretty cheap & as you said, you overshot the cya anyway. You can always add more after slam is done.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

I hate to say this, but a SLAM with CYA of 90 is really difficult. While it may be a bitter pill to swallow, it might be best to replace 30-50% of your pool water, reducing your CYA to a more manageable level.

I wonder if that is why I’m at 0 CC and the water is crystal clear, but I’m still failing the overnight test. I’ve been checking and adding bleach every 1-2hrs, 4hrs at the most to keep FC high, but still losing 5-7ppm overnight. I’m assuming it doesn’t matter how high the FC is, if you lose more than one overnight it fails? Been taking it up to the 35ppm SLAM level before I head to bed.

 

[PoolStored]

I wonder if that is why I’m at 0 CC and the water is crystal clear, but I’m still failing the overnight test. I’ve been checking and adding bleach every 1-2hrs, 4hrs at the most to keep FC high, but still losing 5-7ppm overnight. I’m assuming it doesn’t matter how high the FC is, if you lose more than one overnight it fails? Been taking it up to the 35ppm SLAM level before I head to bed.

CC can be an indicator of many issues. You can have algae and a CC=0. Failing OCLT is a clear indicator of algae...so is visible algae. It is not about high FC, it is about enough FC (SLAM level FC) over some duration to kill the algae.

Again, it may take A LOT of chlorine to SLAM at 90, and you may not be successful. It is way more prudent to replace half your water, then slam.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

CC can be an indicator of many issues. You can have algae and a CC=0. Failing OCLT is a clear indicator of algae...so is visible algae. It is not about high FC, it is about enough FC (SLAM level FC) over some duration to kill the algae.

Again, it may take A LOT of chlorine to SLAM at 90, and you may not be successful. It is way more prudent to replace half your water, then slam.

Think I will take your suggestion and run with it since I’ve been SLAMing for two full days now and spent $100 on bleach already. Should I be circulating the water through water features also? I took the eyes off my bubblers and didn’t see anything in the plumbing since they are in close proximity to the umbrella holder. However, scrubbing my tile line yesterday I did see some green tint around a GloBrite lens, so I may pull that and investigate further. Just curious how much I have left to cause it to drop that much in 8 hrs overnight.

 

[PoolStored]

Think I will take your suggestion and run with it since I’ve been SLAMing for two full days now and spent $100 on bleach already.

Not sure what you are saying. You are going to replace water? Read "no drain water exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Should I be circulating the water through water features also?

Yes, you should circulate and scrub water features, but not during the water replacement.

I took the eyes off my bubblers and didn’t see anything in the plumbing since they are in close proximity to the umbrella holder. However, scrubbing my tile line yesterday I did see some green tint around a GloBrite lens, so I may pull that and investigate further.

Scrub EVERYTHING, inside ladders, behind lights, skimmer, weir door foam...everything

Just curious how much I have left to cause it to drop that much in 8 hrs overnight.

High FC and algae.

 

[Mdragger88]

During the
SLAM Process :
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

Not sure what you are saying. You are going to replace water? Read "no drain water exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes, you should circulate and scrub water features, but not during the water replacement.

Scrub EVERYTHING, inside ladders, behind lights, skimmer, weir door foam...everything

High FC and algae.

Correct, I’m going to replace my high CYA water with tap water. Thanks for the tip on the weir foam; didn’t think about that one either.
On the “High FC and algae” response…are you saying I’m dropping that much overnight partly because my FC is so high? Should I run the OCLT starting at a lower FC instead of the SLAM FC?

 

[PoolStored]

I didn’t realize 8 was oclt. That drop is from algae.

Maintain slam level.

 

[Jeffnhelen]

I didn’t realize 8 was oclt. That drop is from algae.

Maintain slam level.

So I tested my CYA again as I’ve drained off a couple inches just to see where I’m at…tested around 70 now. Made sure to test it twice. We had a couple rain events, but don’t see it dropping CYA that much from little bit of overflow or my pool full schedule since the 28th.
Either way, it has tested lower since then, so I’m wondering now if that’s why I’m losing so much initially as I’m adding too much FC for my actual CYA? I say that because an interesting thing is if I use Pool Math to see what the SLAM level is for 70 CYA it shows 28FC. That is exactly where the test results show for both OCLT I’ve run. Also, since my last OCLT test 6 hours ago I haven’t lost any FC (pool is in shade most of the morning).

 

[PoolStored]

Use 28 for your target. If you lost more than 1ppm for any reason overnight, continue slam.