Would someone mind sanity checking me?

[pcweldon]

Hi all,
New pool owner, and opened for the first time on 5/7. I've had a lot of frustration and anxiety over the last few weeks, as I continue to read this thread, and apparently make every mistake possible.
Wanted to see if someone might be able to sanity check my steps over the last few weeks.

At opening on 5/7
Added 3 quarts of "opening chemicals" and 1 of algaecide. This was what the pool store said was necessary, I didnt know different at the time.
Shocked with Bioguard Smart Shock - which is a non-chlorine shock (also didnt know this was a thing)
Tested, and had 0 chlorine (obvious now), low alkalinity, 150 CYA, and 7PH

Added 25lbs of alkalinity powder based on pool store recommendation.

I shocked again on 5/15 (same, non-chlorine based shock, still didnt know this was wrong)
I added 7-8 chlorine pucks (5 to floater, and 2 to chlorinator) to get the chlorine levels up, unaware this would contribute to higher CYA.

A few weeks go bye, and still reading 0 on chlorine levels.. assuming because my CYA is so high.

The previous owner had the bioguard smart shock and bioguard pucks leftover, so I just purchased more of what he had... spent $300, of which Im guessing I shouldnt use any of this now.. yay..

I got another pool store test yesterday (5/21):
Alkalinity: 150
pH: 6.9
Hardness: 200
Iron/Copper: 0
FC: 0
TC: 0.5
CYA: 100 -though im guessing thats their max reading

I added 3lbs of Ph increaser yesterday evening.

Since then:
I spent all night unable to sleep from anxiety that I messed everything up after reading everything on this site, and purchased the TF-100 test kit... (thank you, first and foremost). I just want to be able to get in

I removed all of the chlorine pucks from the floater and the chlorinator.

I added 4 gallons of 10% chlorine slowly in front of a return jet to try to increase the TC levels.

I backwashed and rinsed my filter for a bit to justify draining the water and try to get CYA down. Adding in new water now, but am hoping I can play the "add new water in as needed and try to lower CYA throughout the year" game. I'd feel bad having to drain 17k gallons.

I added more DE to the filter after that backwashing (80% of a 4lb bag).

Thoughts? Am I still doing it wrong?

I scheduled a pool company to come out, but dont know if that is just going to cause more issues. Thank you for your time!

 

[ajw22]

Where are you located?

You have your TF-100 yet? Post a complete set of tests from the TF-100.

And do a dilution test on your CYA.

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.

Your efforts will be futile until you get your CYA down. You probably need to drain 80% of the pool. You cannot get there with an add new water as needed strategy.

Oh, and stay out of Pool Stores and the pool company will likely look to sell you on more magic potions. You just need to take some simple steps.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

Thoughts? Am I still doing it wrong?

I scheduled a pool company to come out, but dont know if that is just going to cause more issues. Thank you for your time!

They are going to empty your wallet, with results as you've seen.

You need to test yourself, then add only what you actually need. The 'dump and pray' method has worked as expected.

Order a TFpro from Tftestkits.net. it costs a fraction of *1* trip to the pool store and it will pay for itself over and over and over again. We'll help when it comes and we can see what's going on. *edit* saw you ordered one already. Well done !!!

In the meantime, download PoolMath and set up your pool specs. Click the FC tab and add 5ppm of FC daily until the kit comes, to help things from getting worse.

 

[pcweldon]

Thank you @Newdude and @ajw22- located in Collegeville, PA, Philly suburbs(ish). I ordered the test kit last night, so hoping it will be here this week, and I'll test again and post results.

Draining 80% of the pool sounds like a nightmare, but understand that may be the only option to drop CYA.

I couldnt find anywhere on the site, but is there a chart or table that shows what levels are safe to swim in? I know my Ph needs to be up, but if I have high CYA and match FC, is it safe to get in while I continue to balance in the meantime... or do I need to wait until all levels are good?

 

[PoolStored]

Draining 80% of the pool sounds like a nightmare, but understand that may be the only option to drop CYA.

Read the "No Drain Water Exchange" in this article:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I couldnt find anywhere on the site, but is there a chart or table that shows what levels are safe to swim in? I know my Ph needs to be up, but if I have high CYA and match FC, is it safe to get in while I continue to balance in the meantime... or do I need to wait until all levels are good?

In all cases, you need to see the bottom of the pool to go swimming. With no FC in the water, you have nothing to sanitize the pool...allowing bacteria that can cause sickness to prevail. Best we get your CYA down and some FC into the pool and holding before swimming.

 

[Bperry]

Thank you @Newdude and @ajw22- located in Collegeville, PA, Philly suburbs(ish). I ordered the test kit last night, so hoping it will be here this week, and I'll test again and post results.

Draining 80% of the pool sounds like a nightmare, but understand that may be the only option to drop CYA.

I couldnt find anywhere on the site, but is there a chart or table that shows what levels are safe to swim in? I know my Ph needs to be up, but if I have high CYA and match FC, is it safe to get in while I continue to balance in the meantime... or do I need to wait until all levels are good?

Just wait for the test kit to arrive and don’t sweat any of that stuff the pool store told you. None of their tests are accurate enough to do anything based on so pretend you never did that and just start over, no anxiety needed. It’ll be simple steps to follow and you’ll understand why you’re doing them once you test your own water.

 

[ajw22]

I couldnt find anywhere on the site, but is there a chart or table that shows what levels are safe to swim in?

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

I know my Ph needs to be up, but if I have high CYA and match FC, is it safe to get in while I continue to balance in the meantime... or do I need to wait until all levels are good?

Your FC needs to be a minimum of 5% of CYA and preferably 10% of CYA. It is safe to swim with FC up to 40% of CYA.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

We don't put much stock in Pool Store tests but with a TA of 150 your pH should rise quickly into the 7's once you removed the Trichlor tablets and switched to liquid chlorine. The acid in the tablets crushed your pH.

Don't make any chemical changes until you are doing your own testing.

 

[Newdude]

I couldnt find anywhere on the site, but is there a chart or table that shows what levels are safe to swim in?

Sorry to make your brain go here, but it's important.

#1 is swimmer rescue (God forbid). You need to be able to easily see a disabled swimmer if rescue is needed. You don't need TFP clear so long as you can find them.


Then to be sanitary you need FC between Minimum and SLAM for your CYA

 

[ajw22]

Also note that with a high CYA you will likely be running a FC over 10. The pH test is invalid and reads high with FC over 10.

You will need to let your FC get down to 8 or 9 to get a valid pH test, adjust your pH as necessary, and then add liquid chlorine to get your FC back up around 10% of CYA.

These are some of the challenges of managing a pool with high CYA.

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pcweldon]

Got the test kit, and did my first test. It's a lot easier than I expected, but unfortunately test results weren't great.

1. On Monday, as mentioned - added 4 gallons of 10% chlorine.
2. Backwashed and added some DE
3. Added 2 more gallons of 10% on Tuesday evening
4. Tested just now and got:

FC: 1.5
pH: 7.2
TA: 120
CH: 250
CYA: 160
CSI: -0.55

My plan now is to dump 5 more gallons of 10% chlorine in tonight, and test again in the morning.

I think some draining is in my future.

 

[PoolStored]

Yes, you should drain about 70% of your pool to get that CYA down.

You should do "no drain water exchange" explained here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pcweldon]

Yes, you should drain about 70% of your pool to get that CYA down.

You should do "no drain water exchange" explained here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you! I was reading about that quite a bit, and think thats the way to go. I have two questions for you, if you dont mind.
I dont know how to calculate total dissolved solids. Ive read a number of other forums on here, but it seems like there isnt a good way to do this.

Ex:

TDS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

What is TDS?

Split from here. JasonLion Well then what does TDS mean. I have been in the pool industry for over thirty years an I reallywant to learn something new so PLEASE explain to me what it is. Why when a pool has over 5000 TDS no matter how much chemical you throw at it no change. But miracle of...

www.troublefreepool.com

The temperature of my pool water is 73, and fill water is 71 - since these are so close, does it matter really where I drain vs. fill?

I have a pool cover pump that seems like it should be ok to use to drain - would you be concerned with this approach?

https://www.amazon.com/WAYNE-57729-WYNP-WAPC250-Automatic-Removal/dp/B008PPPRUK/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=583775964858&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007370&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14184648195195202558&hvtargid=kwd-26829849302&hydadcr=22092_13332280&keywords=wayne+pool+cover+pumps&qid=1684957803&sr=8-3

 

[PoolStored]

TDS is mostly salt. With liquid chlorine, 800-1000 is probably a reasonable proxy to use for pool water. Fill water maybe 200-300. Plug that in and you should be good.

I know it is meant to be in the rain, not sure if it can be submerged...

 

[pcweldon]

Alrighty, here we go... .. little pump does 5 gallons a minute... it's going to be a while..

Do I have to add any opening chemicals once I'm done.. or do I just turn everything off and test the water and add what's needed from poolmath?

Anything else I'm not considering?

 

[Newdude]

Anything else I'm not considering?

Mix it well before trusting the test. Then we balance accordingly.

(Do your absolute best to minimize any mixing during the exchange. It goes without saying, but you'd be surprised)

 

[pcweldon]

Thank you so much.. this is definitely not how I expected my first month of pool ownership to go...

I'll run filter for 24 hours after I'm done and then test, good call.

And yep, have drain in deepest part and filler at the very shallowest. I have it kind of splashing against the wall to aerate and increase the pH since it was low.. is that a bad idea?

 

[mknauss]

From Draining - Further Reading
Put the fill hose in the skimmer, if you have one, in the shallow end. If no skimmer, then use a bucket to put the water hose in and have the top of the bucket above the pool water surface. Be sure to secure the hose to the bucket.

 

[Bperry]

Thank you so much.. this is definitely not how I expected my first month of pool ownership to go...

I'll run filter for 24 hours after I'm done and then test, good call.

And yep, have drain in deepest part and filler at the very shallowest. I have it kind of splashing against the wall to aerate and increase the pH since it was low.. is that a bad idea?

Aerating is going to mix more.

 

[pcweldon]

Sorry, so fill hose in the skimmer, with basket out and hose down the PVC pipe so that it goes into the filter? Or the bucket like this? That seems to be aerating it too.

 

[mknauss]

That should work. The theory is to minimize the mixing. Looks like more than 5 gpm.