Heater whining

[JamesW]

Also, check the cell to make sure that it is clean.

 

[JamesW]

The whole part looks like this.

 

[doncaruana]

You have unions, so it is easy.

View attachment 494057

You are amazing. Thanks.

 

[doncaruana]

Also, check the cell to make sure that it is clean.

Check which cell? The saltwater cell? I just replaced the whole unit last year.

 

[JamesW]

Yes, the SWG cell to make sure that it is clean.

 

[doncaruana]

Yes, the SWG cell to make sure that it is clean.

I had a leak at the collar on the inlet side of the SWG when I fired up that was pretty bad. I loosened and retightened it and after some initial drips I think it stopped. But I wouldn't expect it to not be clean after one summer of use, should I?

 

[JamesW]

But I wouldn't expect it to not be clean after one summer of use, should I?

I would check it to be sure.

 

[JamesW]

Got a new regulator, tested it the same way, world of difference. Opened up wide!

It should open at 120 degrees, so you need water at 120 degrees to see if it opens completely at 120 degrees.

 

[doncaruana]

It should open at 120 degrees, so you need water at 120 degrees to see if it opens completely at 120 degrees.

Can't get other side of union off. But here's a pic.

 

[JamesW]

I think that the internal bypass is ok.

If the whining does not start until the heater fires, then the thermal regulator is not opening 100% at 120 degrees.

Test it at 120 degrees.

 

[doncaruana]

I just bought a brand new one and took it out of the bag. I tested it at hotter than 120 but it opened wide. The old one barely opened at all.

Yes, the whining does not start until the heater actually fires.

Could I have not put this regulator back in properly?

Also, when I run it at high speed, I still get a cyclical very slight whine but nothing like regular speed. Am I doing any damage running it either way?

 

[JamesW]

Test it at 120 degrees.

It does not matter how much it opens in boiling water or in water over 120 degrees.

If it is not 100% open at 120 degrees, send it back because it is defective.

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/industrial-flow-technologies/flow/ift-asset-library/pool-spa/S431(7-5-00).pdf

 

[doncaruana]

Test it at 120 degrees.

It does not matter how much it opens in boiling water or in water over 120 degrees.

If it is not 100% open at 120 degrees, send it back because it is defective.

View attachment 494079

Ok. Should I be running it particularly at any speed? Or does it not really matter?

 

[JamesW]

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/heaters/mastertemp/manual/Manual-MasterTemp-472592-English.pdf

 

[doncaruana]

Well... I'd say this isn't working, right? (tried it at 123 first and nothing. This was at 135 - still nothing)

 

[JamesW]

I would say that it is bad.

 

[ajw22]

I would redo the test with the spring lying horizontal and totally submerged.

Put it in a pot of water and turn the heat on under it and see how it responds as the water heats.

 

[doncaruana]

I would redo the test with the spring lying horizontal and totally submerged.

Put it in a pot of water and turn the heat on under it and see how it responds as the water heats.

What about if I take the spring completely off? That should be essentially the same thing right? Are you thinking the extra metal mass outside the water is cooler and bringing the regulator temperature down?

 

[JamesW]

If it is not opening at 120 degrees, it is defective.

 

[JamesW]

The quality control on these parts is not great.

I would send it back for a new one.