Allen, I agree with simpler is usually better.A swimming pool is not a fish tank.
Fish don't like any chlorine. Humans needs sanitary swimming conditions greater then fishes.
Your UV is consuming chlorine that your IntelliChlor is generating.
The fact is you cannot run at lower FC levels with those gadgets without getting bit. If you want to constantly deal with your pool issues then enjoy your gadgets.
When you get tired of the extra work consider adopting TFPC Methods.
Get used to weird things happening with your gadgets.
Simpler is better with pool care.
James, I've checked, and also double checked that the tech checked when he put them in.Do you have the right sensors?
Are the sensors reversed?
Were the readings accurate when the sensors were replaced?James, I've checked, and also double checked that the tech checked when he put them in.
I've checked, and they appear to be. I also asked the tech to double check as he installed them.Do you have the right sensors?
Are the sensors reversed?
How sure are you on the CYA reading? I’ve read CYA screws up ORP readings. Long shot but something to check if a pool store measured it as they get it wrong very often.I've checked, and they appear to be. I also asked the tech to double check as he installed them.
The UV sterilizer is behind the SWCG to avoid the UV eating up the chlorine that is generated, so that's never been an issue.
It's just now it's making too much chlorine because it's getting false information somewhere along the line.
Auto Calibration appears to be occuring upon start up, and then gives the false values and goes into 'dosing mode' telling the IC40 to make chlorine. See pictures of screen on startup (after the standard flow delay) below. I do have flow going through the flow sensor (ours happens to be clear so we can actually see the black float go up and down when there's flow or not) Also, it detects flow at the start.Is the auto calibration process happening?
Do you have good flow to the sensors?
View attachment 484754
All you say is correct. However, usually the ORP values are somewhere in the hundred, not NEGATIVE digits, as changing as they always are. We understand how ORP works and its unreliability as to an accurate chlorine reading. The ORP stands for Oxidation Reduction Potential, not chlorine.The UV consumes the chlorine flowing through the pool water. It does not matter if the UV system is before or after the SWG. The chlorine does not stay in the pool with non-chlorine water flowing back through the pump.
ORP is an indirect approximation of chlorine level. The IntelliChem is always getting false information on what the real chlorine level is. Especially once CYA is put in the water.
I'm positive the CYA readings are correct. We do our own testing via our Taylor kit, and the 'black dot' never disappears from view. At first, we were skeptical, so we ordered a different bottle of Cyanuric Acid Reagent in case we had expired stuff in our kit, and we got the same results. Took it to a pool store and they got the same results. So, we figure we're still doing the testing correctly, and our CYA is no higher than 30, and it could possibly be lower than that. So we definitely do not have high CYA which would definitely screw up the ORP readings, but still not by pushing them into negative numbers. Thanks for the idea, though.How sure are you on the CYA reading? I’ve read CYA screws up ORP readings. Long shot but something to check if a pool store measured it as they get it wrong very often.
We opened it up and checked, and they appear to be.Are the probes wired to the correct terminals and the correct polarity?
Do you still need pictures, or are the ones in the thread what you wanted? If you need others, let me know which parts of the system you want pictures of.Pictures of the system?
Here's everything, lol. You can zoom in and read the labels we printed to track what everything is and the directional flow. MDV AND Ozone are mounted on the wall. Insertion points are marked with printed labels on the pipes. I didn't take a picture of the Riverflow pump that we use to paddleboard against, but you can see it on the pool upper deck photo, behind the orchids. It just pumps directly from the pool back to the pool with no interaction to the rest of the system. It's great for mixing in the pool chemicals like salt, though, lol. Let me know if there's something You want a better photo of.Everything.
Here's everything, lol.
Everything.
Oops, i missed one. Here's an old schematic hubby made for our system. It should follow it pretty closely.
Ozone insertion point is after the salt cell. You can see a close up in picture 3348. The insertion point your red dot is on before the salt cell is actually the Acid Insertion Point. And your other red dot is the return from the Intellichem back to the system (the low pressure side). The sampling port for the Intellichem is just in front of the UV on the high pressure side, before the water goes into the heatpump. Pentair says the plumbing is correct, and so does the builder.Does ozone inject before the sensor intake line?
What does the builder say?
What does Pentair say?