TF-Pro test results... help me understand

[thatoneguy3000]

First time pool owner. Had some great help here, on my electronics last summer, first months with new house. Well California has gotten beat with rain/hailstorms, and i didnt think my test strips were giving me accurate ideas of pool chemistry.
So, I Got my TF-Pro kit. I like the magnetic mixer!

PH: image attached. no idea if its 8.2 or off the scale
Cl Br: image attached. chlorine bromine?
FC: 17.5 (35 drops)
CC: zero (no color change with 5 drops)
ALK: 250 (25 drops x 10)
CYA images attached. First image was standard 7.5ml pool water, and then fill to the 15 (+7.5ml). Second image (closer to 100mark ) was a diluted 50/50 pool/tap water mixture. Its maybe half way to the 100, then multiply by 2? To me, that reads as probably a CYA of around 400?

So, help me understand PH, to me it looks about 8.2? CYA thru the roof, but its hard for me to keep track of CYA and FC ratio and what you can still live with, as long as its balanced. Alot of info on this forum, and its made my head hurt.
I use tablets. algae seems to popup every day. pool isnt cloudy specifically, but definitely need to brush everyday.
From what ive gathered, i need to likely drain and refill to get rid of all the CYA that's built up from tablets not doing their job the right way?

I have at times shocked, and added some pure baking soda in the past, based off my test strip readings at the time. But i have not done anything in weeks, and now have a real test kit. So, its a new fresh start i suppose.

 

[mknauss]

Time to drain. The whole thing.
Read Draining - Further Reading

 

[Newdude]

Welcome back oneguy !!!!

It's all a moot point now, but for learning sake, hereyago.

Over 90 is sketchy to test CYA with the logarithmic scale. It's not linear with equal parts making the whole and it doesn't read like our brains want to. So if you ever need to do a high CYA test again, dilute 3X or 4X or as many times as you need to get a reading of under 100. Then multiple said reading by the times you diluted the sample by. As it sits now you have well over 200 and at that point it really doesn't matter anymore if you have to drain 88% or 93%.

Ph is invalid at 10+ FC. You have to wait for the FC to hit a single digit before you test PH.

You don't have bromine so you are only testing chlorine. It's one/other never both.

The TA bottle gets a static charge in shipping and tests high for many users. This is where the reccomendation in the instructions comes from to wipe the tip for every drop. If you didn't take your time on that test it may be a false high. After 10 or so tests the static charge is gone and you don't need to wipe anymore.

 

[pjt]

I use tablets. algae seems to popup every day.

There is a link between these.

Trichlor tabs are unsustainable for routine chlorination. After the drain and fill, use liquid chlorine or a SWG for daily chlorination.

now have a real test kit. So, its a new fresh start i suppose.

Great time for a fresh start. A quality test kit is the best money you'll ever spend on your pool. Fill out your signature when you have a minute. What city/town are you located? What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

 

[thatoneguy3000]

Time to drain. The whole thing.
Read Draining - Further Reading

fair enough. Ill start planning it. And thanks for the reading material!

Welcome back oneguy !!!!

It's all a moot point now, but for learning sake, hereyago.

Over 90 is sketchy to test CYA with the logarithmic scale. It's not linear with equal parts making the whole and it doesn't read like our brains want to. So if you ever need to do a high CYA test again, dilute 3X or 4X or as many times as you need to get a reading of under 100. Then multiple said reading by the times you diluted the sample by. As it sits now you have well over 200 and at that point it really doesn't matter anymore if you have to drain 88% or 93%.

Ph is invalid at 10+ FC. You have to wait for the FC to hit a single digit before you test PH.

You don't have bromine so you are only testing chlorine. It's one/other never both.

The TA bottle gets a static charge in shipping and tests high for many users. This is where the reccomendation in the instructions comes from to wipe the tip for every drop. If you didn't take your time on that test it may be a false high. After 10 or so tests the static charge is gone and you don't need to wipe anymore.

appreciate the info. didnt think about doing a 4x dilution, but will keep in mind if i have this issue again

There is a link between these.

Trichlor tabs are unsustainable for routine chlorination. After the drain and fill, use liquid chlorine or a SWG for daily chlorination.


Great time for a fresh start. A quality test kit is the best money you'll ever spend on your pool. Fill out your signature when you have a minute. What city/town are you located? What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

will look into liquid, and do some more reading on the tabs to better educate myself. Dont see myself going the SWG route. I'll have to test my hose water and get those numbers.

thanks you guys!

 

[mknauss]

Dont see myself going the SWG route.

That is fine. Do realize it is the most economical method of chlorinating your pool water. Trichlor can be used if your water is very cheap and you drain 1/3 of the pool volume every time CYA gets to 60 ppm.

 

[thatoneguy3000]

That is fine. Do realize it is the most economical method of chlorinating your pool water. Trichlor can be used if your water is very cheap and you drain 1/3 of the pool volume every time CYA gets to 60 ppm.

i guess i should have said "for now"... plenty i need to educate myself on with it.