SLAM guidance/encouragement- 15 days in

[jimmyoc40]

Hello,
Short story- pool went green, bought TF100 started SLAM. CC was at 30+ppm to start. Keeping FC above 36 (CYA was 90), I have added well over 40gallons of 10% bleach. Pool went ungreen in 2 days has been cloudy ever since. Cleaning filter every other day(only 2psi increase). Have had same clarity for the last week. Passing OCLT for 7+ days. CC down to .5ppm although last night went up to 1.5ppm(thinking bad test). Waiting on 3rd refill of R-0871. Is it time for a clarifier or just keep going? How long is too long, lol?

 

[mknauss]

CC was at 30+ppm to start.

That does not naturally occur. What chemicals were added prior to this?

 

[Newdude]

So once it goes cloudy/milky from green, you've killed all/most of the algae and it turns from a chemical fight to a mechanical fight. You keep brushing and vac-ing and keep the FC up because with each brushing you may expose a new layer of algae and you don't want to lose any ground.

The cloudy stage is the one that tests everyone's patience after quick visual progress in the beginning. Smaller filters take longer and require more attention.

With the FC mostly holding, it frees you up to go on a full blown algae hunt. Every inch is suspect that it's hiding in plain sight. The ladder rails, light niches, autofill, all up in the skimmer, etc.

 

[duraleigh]

Newdude is on the money. Keep going.

Just to get a more complete picture, please post current TA, CH

 

[jimmyoc40]

Thanks for the advice!
Will measure and post TA, CH this afternoon

 

[jimmyoc40]

That does not naturally occur. What chemicals were added prior to this?

There was a lot! I was pool stored and bamboozled via google.
Long story- pool was resurfaced last year, 6 months in below waterline appeared to have been faded. Water was dropped for repairs to surface, resurface company stated it was calcium but never did an acid test. Told me out of balance water chemistry for the cause- hit up local pool store. Added scale remover from pool store, no change. After googling extensively, found a product advertising effectiveness of scale formation on a fiberglass pool- not sure if I can name drop the website. That product required chlorine be under 2ppm and CH to be below 250ppm. Waited 30days for product to be effective and began rebalancing water, turned SWG back on, CYA(pool store), PH(muriatic acid) TA(baking soda) and CH(pool store) adjustments. Product mentioned would add phosphates, Pool store test +5000ppm. added a few phosphate removers, pool went cloudy. added clear aid, pool went green. based on what i have learned from pool school, and these forums I believe I was likely in Lock all last season.

 

[mknauss]

Sulfamic acid or non chlorine shock typically causes high CC readings.

If CYA still above 60 ppm, you should exchange water to fresh to lower CYA.

 

[Newdude]

based on what i have learned from pool school, and these forums I believe I was likely in Lock all last season.

Chlorine lock is a made up term by the industry trying to explain their methods of not understanding/recognizing the FC/CYA relationship. Read up here
FC/CYA Levels.

The industry treats the 2 as seperate variables and as the CYA rises from all the tabs and granular shock used, you need more and more FC to sanitize at an equal level as with lower CYA. At some point it becomes unmanagable with the amount of FC needed to sanitize and the industry throws their hands up and calls it chlorine lock.

Protip: the pool store is not there to help. They are there to sell you things to raise your levels and then turn around and sell you more things to lower the same levels. Often times the counter person is sweet and genuinely thinks they are helping you buy all the stuff that the chemical manufacturer (typically Bioguard) reccomends with their *free test*. Rest assured there is no free lunch.

The TFP method is to test yourself and add only what you actually need based on science and 15 years with over a third of a million members road testing it. It's long been fine tuned to geographical location and fill sources. We will happily guide you to be your own pools pro, with zero financial interest in the game. We were all there and none of us forgot how bad it sucked. Ask away at anytime, we got you.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! Going back to something that appears to have started your journey - the chalky look under the waterline. We're still waiting for more test numbers to confirm, but don't be surprised if it was never calcium. Some FG pools simply discolor for some reasons and the reason isn't always known. See my story below.

For now though, focus on the SLAM Process details as everyone above has suggested. Once you get the water clear, we can always come back to the faded issue. One thing at a time.

Fiberglass Discoloration (Faded & Chalky) - My Story

DISCLAIMER The following is a dialog of my own personal experience. Any processes used, chemically or otherwise, were performed strictly on my own without any recommendations from Trouble Free Pools. FUTURE POSTING I am trying to keep this thread streamlined with just my own progress for all...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jimmyoc40]

Sulfamic acid or non chlorine shock typically causes high CC readings.

If CYA still above 60 ppm, you should exchange water to fresh to lower CYA.

So I retested Monday after adding some water, seems like I am below 90PPM now(between 80 and 90 at least). Only concern I had for this was my math, to lower by 30% need to change over at least 30% of water so approx 9k gallons, does that sound correct?
Other fear I have is last year, my SWG could not keep up when people swam in pool. Every Monday was 0ppm. Hence I was trying to be at higher end of CYA start of this season.

 

[jimmyoc40]

Welcome! Going back to something that appears to have started your journey - the chalky look under the waterline. We're still waiting for more test numbers to confirm, but don't be surprised if it was never calcium. Some FG pools simply discolor for some reasons and the reason isn't always known. See my story below.

For now though, focus on the SLAM Process details as everyone above has suggested. Once you get the water clear, we can always come back to the faded issue. One thing at a time.

Fiberglass Discoloration (Faded & Chalky) - My Story

DISCLAIMER The following is a dialog of my own personal experience. Any processes used, chemically or otherwise, were performed strictly on my own without any recommendations from Trouble Free Pools. FUTURE POSTING I am trying to keep this thread streamlined with just my own progress for all...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for the warm welcome! I have definitely been stalking your posts! Wife and kids are threatening to hire another pool company if I dont get this fixed soon, so water clarity is top of the list!

 

[mknauss]

Your SWCG is undersized for your pool volume. Were you running it enough to replenish the FC lost each day? Would likely take running it 24 hours per day at close to 100% setting in the summer.

I would suggest a 50% exchange to fresh. Once your water clears, then adjust CYA as necessary.

Your filter is tiny for your pool volume. Be sure it is in good shape.

 

[Newdude]

Only concern I had for this was my math, to lower by 30% need to change over at least 30% of water so approx 9k gallons,

Correct. It's an even % as fill water has 0 CYA. To lower 50% you need to exchange half the water. (And so on).

Other fear I have is last year, my SWG could not keep up when people swam in pool.

SWGs can't overpower the exponential growth of algae once present. After the SLAM is complete, you'll maintain an appropriate FC level to never get near minimum FC and it won't be an issue.

 

[PoolStored]

if I dont get this fixed soon, so water clarity is top of the list!

How often are you testing FC and adding chlorine to get your FC back up to SLAM level?

Have you removed the ladder and cleaned it? Even inside the tubes with a brush? If not, do that.

Do you have a light? Have you removed it and scrubbed behind the light? If not, do that.

Did you check and scrub the skimmers? Did you check the weir doors for algae? If not, do that.

 

[jimmyoc40]

Your SWCG is undersized for your pool volume. Where you running it enough to replenish the FC lost each day? Would likely take running it 24 hours per day at close to 100% setting in the summer.

I was running for ~14hrs a day at 100% it never kept up when swimmers present. I might try the 24hr this summer, at least on the weekends. Resurface company sold me this model, said they have used it on pool this size before. Jandy states will handle up to 35k gal- i can attest it does not and have heard this from several sources now. My hope is with better water balance this year will be more manageable.

I would suggest a 50% exchange to fresh. Once your water clears, then adjust CYA as necessary.

Unfortunately, there is no credit for water in my area. This would likely be an additional $150-$200 added to water bill, is this something that will prevent slam from finishing? Have a quite a bit invested(wasted) this season so far.

Your filter is tiny for your pool volume. Be sure it is in good shape.

I always thought so, I replaced the filter in Feb. Not sure if I can get a new filter housing by the wifey this year.

 

[jimmyoc40]

How often are you testing FC and adding chlorine to get your FC back up to SLAM level?

first week every 2 hrs, past week every 4hrs, been pushing to every 6hrs AM, Lunch, Evening here recently. Have not had a test below level in 7days

Have you removed the ladder and cleaned it? Even inside the tubes with a brush? If not, do that.

On it!

Do you have a light? Have you removed it and scrubbed behind the light? If not, do that.

Light was upgraded with resurface, newer pentair LED, no more Niche.

Did you check and scrub the skimmers? Did you check the weir doors for algae? If not, do that.

I checked the skimmer and door for algae, as well as ladder. I will give it a good scrub this evening.

 

[mknauss]

With your fiberglass resurfacing issues, I would be concerned you have an oxidation issue with the fiberglass and that is clouding the water. Is the surface still an issue?

 

[PoolStored]

On it!

Good. My only SLAM lasted 3 days longer than it needed to...because of the ladder. Was similarly frustrated with my slam, until I looked at the ladder and thought...THOSE ARE HOLLOW!!
Passed OCLT next night. May not be a problem you are facing...looks like your pool is progressing and are experiencing slower progression because of the small filter as @mknauss has indicated.

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• PoolStored
• Aug 2, 2022

 

[jimmyoc40]

With your fiberglass resurfacing issues, I would be concerned you have an oxidation issue with the fiberglass and that is clouding the water. Is the surface still an issue?

the surface is definitely still white/faded, pool water was clear before adding the phosphate removers. Cant see the surface issues just now causing cloudy water

 

[mknauss]

Phosphate removal. Never if you have algae. This is now a filtering game.