Having a pool built and need advice

Like the drain plug, it's warranty work for the PB if you can't easily fix it. (Hang tight in case anyone has any tips)
 
PB sent a guy out with adjustable pliers to tighten it just like I did... so telling them apparently didn't do much.

One video I saw, the guy cut about 1" of the hose off since it got widened by the connector on the pump, and that fixed the leak. The tube is already really short so I'm not sure if I should try that.
 
One video I saw, the guy cut about 1" of the hose off since it got widened by the connector on the pump, and that fixed the leak
If it's a compression fitting (the pic disappeared) then overtightening it can damage the pipe like doing the same with unions. A trim and refit will usually fix it.

Seeing how they already messed with it, and it's a minor issue, I'd have them come. They'll of course blame you if your attempt doesn't go smoothly.

They won't want to hear that the reason you messed with it was that they already screwed it up and you lost faith in them. Lol.
 
They're doing good all things considered, I think I just would rather fix simple things myself rather than pestering them. They don't seem interested in spending the same amount of time and effort I would. I'll try cutting the hose. I couldn't for the life of me remove it from the pump; might be because I need to open the filter pump lid and let some water run back to the pool. I do see replacement hoses on amazon should I need to order another...
 
I couldn't for the life of me remove it from the pump; might be because I need to open the filter pump lid and let some water run back to the pool.
Once the pump is off, there should be no pressure in the system. But I've never messed with a booster pump before so YMMV. :ROFLMAO:
 
What should I do if I go on vacation? Is the advice different for a 2 day vacation and an 8 day vacation?

Posts in the forum about this suggest raising FC to SLAM levels and putting floaters with tabs in them. But since I have a SWG I assume I won't need a floater. I also don't have a pool cover.
 
That's one of the greatest benefits of having a SWCG! Assuming you have it dialed in pretty good for your pool and the time of the year, you really don't need to worry about vacations! It wouldn't hurt to boost your chlorine a bit with some extra liquid chlorine 'just in case', but in theory you shouldn't have to. If you were gone for a really extended period of time maybe I'd have someone check up on the pool every so often, but for most vacations - enjoy the vacation!
 
I want to ask about pump run time. Keeping in mind that I've read the pool school equipment page about run time.

For now, I am not worried about determining how long to run my filter pump. Once I get salt in the pool and turn on the SWG, I will start to play with it. I know that anything I do now will be pointless since it's all about getting the right chlorine output. When I do start this process, I plan to start the SWG at 50% and keep my VSP at 2500RPM for 12 hours a day. Is this a good starting point? Should I start low and creep up? What saves me the most electricity, with my specific SWG and VSP in mind (low SWG vs high RPM or vice-versa; I assume the VSP consumes more electricity than the SWG but not sure; a few folks have suggested not running the SWG at 100% but I'm not sure why)?

Regarding during cleanings: My VSP goes up to 2800 while the cleaner is running. Per manufacturer instructions, I counted the number of wheel rotations for a whole minute and it's at the correct 28-32RPM. Should I leave the configuration alone? Or should I try lowering the RPMs of the VSP?

I want to learn how to start adjusting these to get the best all-around in electricity usage, pool skimming, and chlorine generation. I hope there's a sweet spot somewhere. Right now all my VSP speeds are pretty much "factory default" and I can't help but think it's set too high...
 
a few folks have suggested not running the SWG at 100% but I'm not sure why)?

 

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I plan to start the SWG at 50% and keep my VSP at 2500RPM for 12 hours a day
Do the maths and you'll likely see it's cheaper to run low RPMs 24/7 except for the times you are cleaning. Then adjust the cell to 25% if running full time instead of 50% at 12 hours. (*to be adjusted as needed during the season)
Regarding during cleanings: My VSP goes up to 2800 while the cleaner is running. Per manufacturer instructions, I counted the number of wheel rotations for a whole minute and it's at the correct 28-32RPM. Should I leave the configuration alone? Or should I try lowering the RPMs of the VSP?
If it's working correctly to spec, use that speed for when you clean.
 
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Do I determine that based on skimmer efficiency?
Yes. Find the RPM that skims well, activates the SWG, heater, cleaner, water features, etc for each function. Then add 100 RPMs to each to account for reduced flow as the filter gets dirty. That's your functional speed for each function.

When running the higher RPM functions, the others will automatically be satisfied by default.
 
I read this but it's WAY too technical. I will need a translation.
 
Yes. Find the RPM that skims well, activates the SWG, heater, cleaner, water features, etc for each function. Then add 100 RPMs to each to account for reduced flow as the filter gets dirty. That's your functional speed for each function.

When running the higher RPM functions, the others will automatically be satisfied by default.
How will I know if the flow isn't enough for the SWG? Will I get an error message in AquaLink?
How do I know the flow is enough for the heater?
Skimming seems easy; I just run the pump at a speed for a day or two and see if there's stuff in the baskets or in the pool.
 
How will I know if the flow isn't enough for the SWG? Will I get an error message in AquaLink?
Start at a low RPM and increase it until the heater and SWG turn on. Then add 100 RPMs as the speed you'll use for them.
Skimming seems easy; I just run the pump at a speed for a day or two and see if there's stuff in the baskets or in the pool.
Even easier. As you increase the RPMs for the other things, check the skimmers for the doors flapping away every 10 to 15 seconds. That's where the skimmers are working well.
Just don't do it if you don't have to. Running at 100% wears out the plates more.
+1. Running at 80% or 90% won't make a huge difference in FC production with an oversized cell. More often than not, you were already running long enough to account for the 10%- 20% cell runtime anyway. So instead of running the cell for 4 hours at 100% in a 12 hour pump runtime window, run the cell for 5 hours at 80% in that same 12 hour pump runtime window. (Or whatevs the math comes out to, I just estimated)
 
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How will I know if the flow isn't enough for the SWG? Will I get an error message in AquaLink?

You will get a NO FLOW message.

Crank the speed down and see what messages you get.

How do I know the flow is enough for the heater?

Very low flow the heater will not fire.

When you run the heater put your hand on the output pipe next to the heater. If the pipe feels hot or warm you should increase the flow. You should barely feel a heat rise on the pipe when you touch it.

Skimming seems easy; I just run the pump at a speed for a day or two and see if there's stuff in the baskets or in the pool.

Yup.
 
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doors flapping away every 10 to 15 seconds
These particular skimmers have weird flaps. If I push them too far down they get stuck in place, and sometimes i see them stuck in the down position and have to manually lift them up to unstick them. Seems like the opening is too small for them on the lower part of the opening. Not sure if that makes sense. Should I tell the PB about it? Or is there an easy fix?
 

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