Temporary/Backup Pool Cleaner?

[BDY]

We just filled our new pool a few weeks ago. I thought I would have a Dolphin from my in laws pool (they are selling their house) but there will be a 2-3 month gap now until we can take the robot.

I thought I would be able to bet/skim but the pollen season and storms in Houston are leading me to conclude I need something temporary .. maybe something that I can use as a backup for the robot later. (We also have long steps in the pool - not sure a robot will do that??)

From reading all the posts I was thinking a pool vacuum like the Pool Blaster or something like that might be the most cost effective? Is there something else I should consider that I’m missing? Anyone have anything else that might work for bottom of pool?

Thanks
B

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Was your pool built with a vacuum port? Or just a skimmer and main drain?

I always think it’s a good idea to have a manual vacuum head with a pole and vacuum hose on hand. They come in handy when in a pinch either because a robot will take too long to clean or it’s broken. I have a manual vacuum and I use it a couple of times at least during the season to quickly clean the pool. Sure it’s bulky and annoying to have all the stuff take up space … but it’s more annoying to NOT have it when you absolutely need it.

If all you have is a skimmer then you’ll need a skimmer plate adapter, around 25ft or so of vacuum hose, a vacuum head and a decent telescoping pole (that you should have anyway for a leaf bag/rake).

 

[Mdragger88]

A manual vac is a staple tool for the arsenal.

 

[Bperry]

We just filled our new pool a few weeks ago. I thought I would have a Dolphin from my in laws pool (they are selling their house) but there will be a 2-3 month gap now until we can take the robot.

I thought I would be able to bet/skim but the pollen season and storms in Houston are leading me to conclude I need something temporary .. maybe something that I can use as a backup for the robot later. (We also have long steps in the pool - not sure a robot will do that??)

From reading all the posts I was thinking a pool vacuum like the Pool Blaster or something like that might be the most cost effective? Is there something else I should consider that I’m missing? Anyone have anything else that might work for bottom of pool?

Thanks
B

Also, I don’t think you are supposed to use tracked robots on brand new plaster for at least a month. Someone else can advise how long to wait.

 

[BDY]

Was your pool built with a vacuum port? Or just a skimmer and main drain?

I always think it’s a good idea to have a manual vacuum head with a pole and vacuum hose on hand. They come in handy when in a pinch either because a robot will take too long to clean or it’s broken. I have a manual vacuum and I use it a couple of times at least during the season to quickly clean the pool. Sure it’s bulky and annoying to have all the stuff take up space … but it’s more annoying to NOT have it when you absolutely need it.

If all you have is a skimmer then you’ll need a skimmer plate adapter, around 25ft or so of vacuum hose, a vacuum head and a decent telescoping pole (that you should have anyway for a leaf bag/rake).

It was built with two skimmers and two main drains. It was plumbed with a dedicated suction side line to the pad but only capped off no equipment. The skimmers are not connected to main drain so no diverter.

I have the pole etc… would you advise then a vacuum, etc to the skimmer instead of something like the pool blaster? If so would you have any recommendations for the head?

Thanks
B

 

[BDY]

Also, I don’t think you are supposed to use tracked robots on brand new plaster for at least a month. Someone else can advise how long to wait.

It should be at least 3-4 months before the dolphin is available… but that’s good to know

 

[Newdude]

would you advise then a vacuum, etc to the skimmer instead of something like the pool blaster?

I would.


The manual vac is needed for heavy debris times like opening or a particurally flower-y spring. You won't use the manual vac frequently, but it will last for years and years.

If so would you have any recommendations for the head?

With a VS pump that you can dial in for the proper level of suction, I like the Hayward triangle head with the bristles. It brushes while it sucks for 2 birds with one push.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

It was built with two skimmers and two main drains. It was plumbed with a dedicated suction side line to the pad but only capped off no equipment. The skimmers are not connected to main drain so no diverter.

I have the pole etc… would you advise then a vacuum, etc to the skimmer instead of something like the pool blaster? If so would you have any recommendations for the head?

Thanks
B

Personally speaking, a dedicated vacuum port is a great thing to have. If allows you to run a manual vacuum without having to fiddle around with skimmer plates. It also allows your run a suction side cleaner which is what I do. Unfortunately yours was never plumbed into the the equipment which, to me, is kind of a silly thing to do. It costs nothing extra to plumb it all together when the pool is being built but will now either require a plumber to come back and do it or you’ll have to DIY. Having a suction line would make doing snap cleanup jobs a cinch.

You also can’t run a manual vacuum head (with wheels) for the first month to avoid marring the plaster. So until then you can sweep debris to the main drain and use a lead rake to scoop up anything big.

My suggestion is that you hook up that dedicated suction port to the plumbing. It’s worth having and there is literally no down side to attaching it.

 

[BDY]

Personally speaking, a dedicated vacuum port is a great thing to have. If allows you to run a manual vacuum without having to fiddle around with skimmer plates. It also allows your run a suction side cleaner which is what I do. Unfortunately yours was never plumbed into the the equipment which, to me, is kind of a silly thing to do. It costs nothing extra to plumb it all together when the pool is being built but will now either require a plumber to come back and do it or you’ll have to DIY. Having a suction line would make doing snap cleanup jobs a cinch.

You also can’t run a manual vacuum head (with wheels) for the first month to avoid marring the plaster. So until then you can sweep debris to the main drain and use a lead rake to scoop up anything big.

My suggestion is that you hook up that dedicated suction port to the plumbing. It’s worth having and there is literally no down side to attaching it.

I’ll try and have a talk with the PB. If I have to DIY How would it be plumbed into the pad if the line were to be completed? The stub in the middle is the line that is capped.

 

[BDY]

I would.


The manual vac is needed for heavy debris times like opening or a particurally flower-y spring. You won't use the manual vac frequently, but it will last for years and years.

With a VS pump that you can dial in for the proper level of suction, I like the Hayward triangle head with the bristles. It brushes while it sucks for 2 birds with one push.

I think I found it - do you use the regular or the weighted version?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I’ll try and have a talk with the PB. If I have to DIY How would it be plumbed into the pad if the line were to be completed? The stub in the middle is the line that is capped.

It has to be added to the suction intake of the main pool pump. With its own shutoff valve. You want it to have its own isolation not a shared diverter.

I think I found it - do you use the regular or the weighted version?

Get a weighted vacuum head and get an 18” professional/commercial version. It will clean faster than a 12” head.

I also recommend you get an inline leaf trap with any vacuum hose that you use on a vacuum port. You want to trap the big leaves and debris BEFORE it goes into the plumbing lines to avoid clogs. Hayward makes both a large and small version. I prefer the smaller version.

 

[Newdude]

do you use the regular or the weighted version?

I have 3 weights that pop into mine.

 

[BDY]

Thanks all!

 

[BDY]

Follow up question on the suction plumbing to the pad with the isolation valve. Do you isolate both main and skimmer and run the entire force of the pump through the vacuum? Or do you leave either main or skimmer open so as to have safety on the suction for the pump and for people? What does isolation entail?

Thanks

PS - the PB cheerfully informed me i should plug the vacuum directly into skimmer without a plate… thus explaining why i have so much junk in my pump basket after they started up a few weeks ago I told them i want the pad plumbing completed… sigh

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You should never restrict a pump suction inlet too much or else you can cause loss of prime or cavitation. My setup, unfortunately, has a diverter valve setup on the inlet to either be 100% skimmer/MD (my skimmer and MD are tied together in series which sucks) or 100% suction port or some split in between. When running my suction cleaner, it’s typically set to 1/3rd skimmer/MD and 2/3rds suction cleaner. That allows the suction cleaner to run well while still allowing the skimmer to skim.

Independent control of all suction sources is better as that can give you much more precise control.

There are adapters that allow you to plug the suction hose into the skimmer line opening at the bottom of the skimmer while still having some suction at the skimmer. Those types of adapters never work well and they often pop off making their use very unreliable. You also have to removed the skimmer basket so all the crud gets sucked into the pump strainer which is not good. It’s always better to use a dedicated suction line with an inline leaf trap.

 

[BDY]

You should never restrict a pump suction inlet too much or else you can cause loss of prime or cavitation. My setup, unfortunately, has a diverter valve setup on the inlet to either be 100% skimmer/MD (my skimmer and MD are tied together in series which sucks) or 100% suction port or some split in between. When running my suction cleaner, it’s typically set to 1/3rd skimmer/MD and 2/3rds suction cleaner. That allows the suction cleaner to run well while still allowing the skimmer to skim.

Independent control of all suction sources is better as that can give you much more precise control.

There are adapters that allow you to plug the suction hose into the skimmer line opening at the bottom of the skimmer while still having some suction at the skimmer. Those types of adapters never work well and they often pop off making their use very unreliable. You also have to removed the skimmer basket so all the crud gets sucked into the pump strainer which is not good. It’s always better to use a dedicated suction line with an inline leaf trap.

So i have one valve tied to separate pipes that goes between 100% main drain to 100% skimmer or somewhere in between. I’m not thinking there is a way to put a separate inlet on the pipe going to the pump which means I’ll have to put it on either skmimmer or main drain line. Unless i am missing something?

Thanks
B

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Take the 90° elbow off the pump inlet and replace it with a Tee fitting. Then the Skimmer/MD combo can go to one side and the suction line to the other side. At least that would separate suction line.

Honestly, whoever did the equipment pad plumbing didn’t leave you a lot of room and violated some general rules. There needs to be more straight pipe in front of the pump to avoid cavitation from fittings. Should be about 10"-12” of straight run before the pump. Also, the inlet side of the SWG should have approximately 12”-18” of straight pipe before it. And, while not a big deal, the zinc anode contraption they installed after the SWG is useless. Someone in the pool industry pushed the silly idea that a sacrificial anode is needed in an SWG pool and now all the builders seem to be installing them. They are a placebo at best. You don’t have to remove it but it’s not doing anything useful.

 

[Ahultin]

And, while not a big deal, the zinc anode contraption they installed after the SWG is useless. Someone in the pool industry pushed the silly idea that a sacrificial anode is needed in an SWG pool and now all the builders seem to be installing them. They are a placebo at best. You don’t have to remove it but it’s not doing anything useful.

Unless you see something different, (maybe the tee below the bond but that just looks like an abandoned line to me) that is a water bond after the salt cell not a sacrificial anode. My jurisdiction requires the water bond when using nichless/12v lights that don't have a bond connection in the water.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Unless you see something different, (maybe the tee below the bond but that just looks like an abandoned line to me) that is a water bond after the salt cell not a sacrificial anode. My jurisdiction requires the water bond when using nichless/12v lights that don't have a bond connection in the water.

Could be. Different jurisdictions have different rules. A plaster pool should not need a water bond because the shell and the underlying rebar is considered “the bond” to the water. At least that’s how my areas code defined it when my pool was built 10 + years ago. Vinyl and fiberglass are different. But it seems like with every revision of the NEC pool codes, requirements just get more and more complex.

 

[Toxophilite]

Unfortunately yours was never plumbed into the the equipment which, to me, is kind of a silly thing to do. It costs nothing extra to plumb it all together when the pool is being built but will now either require a plumber to come back and do it or you’ll have to DIY. Having a suction line would make doing snap cleanup jobs a cinch.

Odd, isn't it. Don't know the reasoning to plumb all the way from pad to pool then cap, but mine was done the same way. I guess, not knowing or not buying a cleaner from the PB, they leave it where can be plumbed one side or other, either for a vacuum or pressure side cleaner. Since neither ordered, I guess it's a welcome available option.