True, but an ineffective product quickly loses it's market. Heck, even effective but inconvenient ones do. I remember when UV/peroxide was all the rage. Everything has drawbacks, even bleach, and ultimately it comes down to preference.
Yet. But I'm working on it.
I've only been here for a year or so, but in that time I have answered many questions about spas. I have yet to see a thread in which minerals or ozone was the problem. I've seen plenty of them where everyone says they are useless, but offer absolutely no evidence to support that claim that did not originate here. I've seen chemical issues, and troubles with smartchlor that happens to come with a mineral component. But the only real complaints about them stem from the fact that they are not chlorine or bromine and don't do what chlorine does.
Still are if you buy them that way, like me.
Bromine. It was really no different than the spa frog floater, they just put an inline dispenser.
And that's the same logic used here today. I could just say "cryptosporidium" and be done with it, or mention it's effectiveness at preventing biofilm, or inquire if you have ever forgotten your weekly (or more) chlorine dose during periods of non-use, or point out that ANY "kill time" for pathogens indicates a cessation of growth (so it's like birth control for pathogens before it destroys them via hardening of the cell wall, incidentally preventing the very thing that makes 24/7 ozone ineffective), but instead let me ask you a few questions. How many ppm of chlorine are you going to turn to chloramines when you get in your spa? Will it be the same tomorrow, or next week? What if you have guests? What level of FC do you need to start with to have any left when you get out? Is it safe and not unpleasant? How much do you need to add after use to destroy any remaining pathogens if your FC is zero? And if your FC is reduced to 0, what exactly is protecting you anyway? If you can answer these questions, that logic may be nearly correct in your case. But in my experience, the fact that you are on this forum puts you leagues ahead of 99% of spa owners, and for them I recommend everything that does ANY good. If you had seen what I have I am sure you would agree. If there were more ways, I'd recommend those too.
The majority is released in the first week, the rest maintains the level, theoretically. That's why you need a new one if you change your water even before the 4 month mark.
Yes, it was. That's where they borrowed it from. And in most cases, ozone is used after chlorine sanitation to remove the byproducts (cc) and any remaining excess fc, just as in a spa. The other sytems utilized much better (more expensive) equipment of course, as they were municipal water supplies treating millions of gallons. But the equipment used in a good ozone system is more than sufficient for a spa, and worth the cost for those who enjoy the benefits.
That is the worst anology I've ever heard. Who told you that? I'd love a reference on that one.
Yeah, I've had this discussion with waterbear too. I know what I know from my own experience, from 26 years in the field and almost always owning several flip tubs (I have 4 right now). I am no chemist or microbiologist, but I know what works for me, and if you want to add more chlorine than I use it won't hurt a bit. Ozone, nature2, chlorine. Easy. I only treat it after use, or once a week (in the rare event my kids aren't in it for that long) when I balance (a splash of acid usually). Much different than the chemical slavery I experience when running a tub without ozone and nature2 or some type of feeder (which have their own list of problems). Though, if forced to choose, I'd pick 24/7 ozone over silver ion every time.
There are other purge products, they just don't work very well. When I started here I did not recommend them.
@Ahhsomeguy talked a good talk, so I challenged him to put his money where his mouth was and prove it on an old leaker I had in that was going to be getting alot of pipes cut. I took before and after pics inside the pipes. You'll notice that I now recommend ahhsome.
I do not sell these products, or most parts for that matter. I can't compete with online pricing. I have no interest in any of these companies success or failure. I recommend them because I use them and know they work, and like happy customers.
Anyone who takes the time to learn can do it, it's not chemistry or anything.
And as I have said before, people have been managing just fine forever with chlorine, you do not "need" these. But they sure are nice to have in the opinion of countless spa owners out there who have never nor will ever hear about this forum.
I don't even know where to begin.
Ok, ozone started out in D1, where at first it was pumped by a small diaphram pump into a mixing chamber through a diffuser bulb and gassed off through a charcoal filter lid. It was moderately effective mainly due to the extremely low flow rate of the system, but ozone exposure was great in the chamber. Hot springs and Sundance used laing (or grundfos) circulation pumps to drive their 24/7 ozone systems, and these were so effective it became hard to sell a tub without one. So everyone started slapping in ozonators (to say they had one) without the necessary 24/7 injection, diffusers (mixing chambers), flow rate, and pipe length to make it work. These eat covers and pillows, and do almost nothing for your water (like your anology in space). If you look at any of my posts about ozone, you'll see that I specify a 24/7 system, which are all properly plumbed. Most new tubs that I'm aware of are plumbed ok, but still if running off of the main pump will be ineffective due to low flow and timed use.
More accurately, bleach (or any liquid chlorine) and often liquid acid are restricted by warranty and have been for decades. This is a result of warranty claims resulting from their use. Bromine was the recommended product for spas.
Perhaps, but it's advice I still give as I have never heard anything to the contrary. And fiberglass/acrylic are not the only materials in a spa to be concerned with. I don't know that science, so feel it better to be safe than sorry.
along with a high bleach disinfection to kill everything (OK almost everything).
