Conflicting TA Targets in Pool School and Instructions?

[midlifecrisis]

In the "What Are My Idea Pool Levels" I filled in my pool details and received the following results:



However, in the Test Kit Instructions and Tips page says 100-120 for non-saltwater pools (below). The Poolmath app says 50-90 as a recommended (it is set for bleach).

Total Alkalinity Test

TA has a buffering effect on pH, preventing it from moving suddenly. Good TA readings will be around 70-90 for saltwater pools and 100-120 for normal pools.

Now, I'm sure I am missing something here as I can't be the first person to notice this, so what is it?

 

[ajw22]

PoolMath recommendations are from TFP.

Test kit recommendations are from others following older thinking allowing for people who are using Trichlor pucks. TFP does not recommend the use of Trichlor so can recommend TA more specific to the way you chlorinate your pool.

Follow PoolMath

 

[Bperry]

In the "What Are My Idea Pool Levels" I filled in my pool details and received the following results:

View attachment 474066

However, in the Test Kit Instructions and Tips page says 100-120 for non-saltwater pools (below). The Poolmath app says 50-90 as a recommended (it is set for bleach).

Total Alkalinity Test

TA has a buffering effect on pH, preventing it from moving suddenly. Good TA readings will be around 70-90 for saltwater pools and 100-120 for normal pools.

Now, I'm sure I am missing something here as I can't be the first person to notice this, so what is it?

The test kit itself is endorsed by TFP, but not the generic instructions.

 

[midlifecrisis]

The test kit itself is endorsed by TFP, but not the generic instructions.

Well, okay then. That is simple, thank you!

 

[ajw22]

The test kit itself is endorsed by TFP, but not the generic instructions.

Endorsed?

Recommended test kits are equally Taylor K-2006C or the TFT Test Kits

TFT seems to follow Taylor water chemistry recommendations since they use Taylor chemicals.

 

[duraleigh]

The suggested levels in both TFP documentation and TFTestkit documentation should be the same.........they are not.

They will not be changed in one fell swoop but rather become more and more in sync with each other over some time.

Meanwhile, the solution is pretty simple, I think. TFP suggestions are the most current and accurate about 98% of the time so use that data. Ask for clarity on TFP if you need to.

 

[Newdude]

Ask for clarity on TFP if you need to.

+1. No matter the source, the ideal levels you see are just how the average pool responds to that method. But all pools are unique and yours may behave a little different than the norm. Or there are parameters that change the equation that then conflict with the original advice.

For example, if you have high CH fill water, we will recommend you start the CH level around 250 as it will be 'in range' soon enough. But when you enter a 250 CH into poolmath, or compare it against the TFP ideal levels, or the manufacturers advice you'll be told you are out of range.

So always ask and we'll custom tailor your targets to your situation and how your pool responds to it.

 

[midlifecrisis]

Thanks for the explanations and clarifications, mainly trying to make sure I'm not missing something.

 

[Bperry]

Endorsed?

Recommended test kits are equally Taylor K-2006C or the TFT Test Kits

TFT seems to follow Taylor water chemistry recommendations since they use Taylor chemicals.

The Taylor k2006 kit I got a while back has those same recommended levels for TA. My point was just that Taylor recommends 80-120 but TFP recommends 60-80. If TFP recommends 60-80 then they can’t also endorse Taylor’s recommendation which is different

 

[PoolStored]

Test kit recommendations are from others following older thinking allowing for people who are using Trichlor pucks. TFP does not recommend the use of Trichlor so can recommend TA more specific to the way you chlorinate your pool.

Thanks for the explanations and clarifications, mainly trying to make sure I'm not missing something.

Ask away. Allen (@ajw22) is spot on. To explain one more level of detail. Higher TA causes pH to rise. Our recommendation is to use a SWCG or liquid chlorine (LC) to chlorinate. Keeping a TA of 60-80 and using SWCG/LC, pH tends not to rise. If you are chlorinating with pucks, they are very acidic and tend to drive pH down. The Taylor recommendation of 80-120 TA will cause pH to rise, generally offsetting the pH drop from pucks. There is always a reason behind our (and Taylor's) recommendations and guidance.

 

[midlifecrisis]

Ask away. Allen (@ajw22) is spot on. To explain one more level of detail. Higher TA causes pH to rise. Our recommendation is to use a SWCG or liquid chlorine (LC) to chlorinate. Keeping a TA of 60-80 and using SWCG/LC, pH tends not to rise. If you are chlorinating with pucks, they are very acidic and tend to drive pH down. The Taylor recommendation of 80-120 TA will cause pH to rise, generally offsetting the pH drop from pucks. There is always a reason behind our (and Taylor's) recommendations and guidance.

Thanks, all, I have a chlorinator but I'm not using it based it on what I've learned here and using only liquid chlorine for now. I will manage for a while before "sneaking" in a SWG. She loves it too, but her hand is cramping from that final check to the builder. Best to wait a bit!

 

[PoolStored]

I note these in your signature..."UV & Ozone Generator"

Some good reading...

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I ended up tearing my UV out...did nothing but consume FC.

Also looked at your logs...the CYA test is logarithmic...you can't read between the lines. Pour to the first line, look. Pour to the next line, look. Repeat. When the dot is obscurred, you are done. There are not in-betweenies...your CYA is 40.

 

[midlifecrisis]

I note these in your signature..."UV & Ozone Generator"

Some good reading...

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I ended up tearing my UV out...did nothing but consume FC.

Also looked at your logs...the CYA test is logarithmic...you can't read between the lines. Pour to the first line, look. Pour to the next line, look. Repeat. When the dot is obscurred, you are done. There are not in-betweenies...your CYA is 40.

Thanks for the input. I'll read up on those links and noted on the CYA.

 

[PoolStored]

Thanks for the input. I'll read up on those links and noted on the CYA.

If it is any consolation, the "Pool Store" (See what I did there?) sold me a new, replacement, $1000 UV system because the old one sprung a leak. I tore it out when I saw the light. It is still in the outbuilding, and my pool is How Clear is TFP Clear? going on two years. As my mother said, "That is the price of an education." God rest her soul.

 

[midlifecrisis]

I had kinda sorta figured that out already. But, we live, we learn! Thanks for helping us newbies.

 

[Newdude]

sold me a new, replacement, $1000 UV system because the old one sprung a leak. I tore it out when I saw the light.

So the new one leaked too ?