Yellow algae, need help

[smithkl]

Hello! I am a new pool owner and new to this forum. I’ve been completely overwhelmed with differing advice from pool stores and pool owners. I very much want to take care of my pool myself and keep it simple. I was successful at this for the first 11 months of having the pool. I have a good Taylor test kit, and I test my water daily. My chemicals are almost always in balance, although I need to add acid fairly frequently to keep the pH down. I don’t know if that is related to the newness of the pool.

Currently I am struggling with yellow algae. It’s not all over the pool, but it is in certain places and I am having a hard time getting rid of it. I know this is frowned upon, but I used a algae product from Leslie‘s, and I shocked with their powdered chlorine as instructed. I was desperate! The yellow has returned.

I think what I need to do is the SLAM process from this site. In looking at this site I understand it’s OK to use Clorox bleach? If I use Clorox that is 7% in my 22,000 gallon pool, am I reading correctly that I need to get my chlorine level to 24? According to pool math I would need to add 5 gallons of bleach to get it there. does that sound right?

I am very open to other suggestions if people think I need to go a different route.

 

[PoolStored]

I think what I need to do is the SLAM process from this site.

Hey! Welcome to TFP!!! You are not the first to be pool stored.

it’s OK to use Clorox bleach?

Do not use Clorox bleach, CLOROMAX is no bueno for a pool. Use liquid chlorine (LC) if you can find it. Many people here in Houston use Napco Chemical Co located at 2830 Spring Cypress Rd, Spring, TX 77388. You have to take your own 5 gallon container (or other size), but it works, give them a call: (281) 651-6800 You can also find LC at ACE, Lowe's, HomeDepot etc. If you have to use bleach make sure it is just bleach...no clorox, no splashless, no fragrances, nothing.

Pictures of the yellow spots and pictures of the pool and equipment would really help, particularly if you can annotate where your skimmers and returns are located.

Yes, the likely place to start would be a SLAM Go to this link and print it out, read it three times --> SLAM Process After we get your test results, we can help you get started!

Can you tell us the EXACT testing kit that you have? That is important.

Can you please post a full, current set of test results?

It would really help us out if you fill out your signature.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[smithkl]

Thanks for your reply. I fixed the signature, so now you can see some specifics. Somehow I missed that I needed to do that.

I have attached some pictures. It’s really hard to see the yellow because we have been scrubbing it. I had to look to find where there was some that I could see when I took a picture. Before we did the algae treatment and granular chlorine from Leslie‘s, when we brushed the yellow would look like a cloud as we brushed it off. It was never really thick, because we saw it right away. But now we see that it is coming back.

Current levels:
FC- 3
PH- 7.4
TA- 80
CYA- 60
CA- 400
Phos- 350

 

[PoolStored]

Thanks for your reply. I fixed the signature, so now you can see some specifics. Somehow I missed that I needed to do that.

You are welcome. Signature not *required*, just really helps us out.

Looks like you have good circulation! Poor circulation not likely the cause...thanks for the pics.

You certainly have algae. Not surprising with CYA of 60 and FC of 3. (see chlorine/cya chart link below)

You will need to slam. Your other test results are PERFECT to start your SLAM. Did you print out the directions and read them 3 times?

Your Target FC for CYA of 60 is: 24. You can find that here--> FC/CYA Levels

The more often you can test and add chlorine to get back to 24 the better. If you can do every 1-2 hours that will make it go the fastest.

SLAM ON!

 

[PoolStored]

Also, looks like you have a Fusion inground chlorinator. Can you provide the model? Also, are you using it to chlorinate with tablets? Does it have and are you using the mineral system?

 

[smithkl]

I am so sorry to keep asking questions. Please know that I really appreciate your help. I didn’t expect to feel
this stressed about it!

The chlorinator says nature 2. On the sticker where it says model it just says fusion. I have not had any chlorine tablets in there for about a month because I’ve been trying to work on this algae problem. My pool has had chlorine because I used the granules I got from Leslie‘s. Yes, it has the mineral cartridge and yes I am using it. I have used the tablets since we put in the pool one year ago. That’s where all the stabilizer is coming from I was told.

I‘ll try to make this my last set of questions.

I attached pictures of charts from the site. You had said I should aim for 24. When I look on the other chart that tells the yellow or mustard algae target it says 34. Which should I do?

What I was not doing was altering my FC level based on my CYA. I was going with the standard 1-4. So on the other chart I posted it says that I should always keep my FC between 7-9. That’s correct?

How am I supposed to test my chlorine to know such high levels when my kit only goes to 10?

 

[PoolStored]

attached pictures of charts from the site. You had said I should aim for 24. When I look on the other chart that tells the yellow or mustard algae target it says 34. Which should I do?

I'm not sure it is yellow/mustard algae. Let's get the slam done first, then we can move on to the mustard algae treatment, which is..."Once you have completed SLAMing your pool in the standard way, raise the FC level up to the extra high mustard algae shock level for 24 hours." Found here:

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.troublefreepool.com

What I was not doing was altering my FC level based on my CYA. I was going with the standard 1-4. So on the other chart I posted it says that I should always keep my FC between 7-9. That’s correct?

Ding Ding Ding! That is one of the pillars of TFP. Yes.

How am I supposed to test my chlorine to know such high levels when my kit only goes to 10?

Your signature indicates you have the FAS-DPD. That goes much higher. Do you, in fact, have a FAS-DPD kit?

 

[newdude]

I am so sorry to keep asking questions

HOGWASH !!!!! It's the only way to learn, and we all started how you started before finding our own way here. So we GET it. I promise.

But you kinda opened a can of worms by wanting to learn and the path to a clear pool, while not rocket science, does start with information overload. We'll get you there, but you have alot of reading to do.

Pool Care Basics
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared

 

[PoolStored]

Yes, it has the mineral cartridge and yes I am using it. I have used the tablets since we put in the pool one year ago. That’s where all the stabilizer is coming from I was told.

Remove the mineral cartridge and do not use it in the future. The minerals provide no sanitary advantage and can accumulate in your pool water and stain the pool surfaces. The Nature 2 Fusion mineral pack adds copper and silver to your pool. Copper can stain your pool and turn hair green.

Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You are correct, tablet/pucks add CYA (Chorine Stabilizer, AKA Cyanuric Acid) to your pool. Yes, that is why it is high. However, it is not outrageous at this point. That is why we recommend using Liquid Chlorine, or switching to a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. I believe that Nature2 has the Fusion Soft that is an SWCG instead of a puck feeder. The 1400 would be the correct size for your pool. That may be a drop in solution for you to convert to SWCG without much fuss (just the expense). You would also want to remove the mineral cartridge from the Fusion Soft if you decide to go that route.

Nature2 Fusion Soft Mineral Sanitizer

Nature2 Fusion soft system is an all-in-one salt water swimming pool sanitizer and mineral system for in-ground pools.

www.nature2.com

 

[smithkl]

I bought the two extra things I thought I needed for FAS-DPD. Does it look like I have what I need to test at higher levels?

Why does the pool math tell me my target is outside the recommended range? I went there to find out how much liquid chlorine to use.

 

[smithkl]

HOGWASH !!!!! It's the only way to learn, and we all started how you started before finding our own way here. So we GET it. I promise.

But you kinda opened a can of worms by wanting to learn and the path to a clear pool, while not rocket science, does start with information overload. We'll get you there, but you have alot of reading to do.

Pool Care Basics
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared

Thanks so much. I appreciate the help!

 

[newdude]

I bought the two extra things I thought I needed for FAS-DPD. Does it look like I have what I need to test at higher levels?

You did good !! Thanks for confirming.

Why does the pool math tell me my target is outside the recommended range? I went there to find out how much liquid chlorine to use.

It's making you think about what you are doing. A SLAM is not a normal part of maintaining the pool. Not once we make you a chemistry whiz, anyway. Ignore the warning.

 

[smithkl]

You did good !! Thanks for confirming.

It's making you think about what you are doing. A SLAM is not a normal part of maintaining the pool. Not once we make you a chemistry whiz, anyway. Ignore the warning.

Have I been doing this wrong? Am I supposed to hit reply like I did here so that it just goes to you?

I had read what you copied about first SLAM level then to yellow level. How will I know if I need to go to yellow level? I’m guessing the SLAM will clear it up at least initially. So if it comes back I then go to yellow?

And here is the question producing the most anxiety. Do I have to remove the pool lights and clean behind them? Please say no….

 

[newdude]

Have I been doing this wrong?

You're doing GREAT. You can use 'quote' then 'insert quotes' or just 'reply' and they both work.

I had read what you copied about first SLAM level then to yellow level. How will I know if I need to go to yellow level?

This gets tricky. Mustard algae is rare, but many people think they have it when they don't. You can either play the odds that it isn't and do a regular SLAM, or do the MA slam preemptively just to be absolutely sure. Obviously if you don't MA SLAM and it returns, then next time we know it's more likely to be MA.

Do I have to remove the pool lights and clean behind them? Please say no….

Lol. Got pics? Are they the big old school ones the size of a dinner plate, or the little guys with no big cavity behind them for old water / algae to be hiding?

producing the most anxiety.

No more anxiety. Getting here is the hard part. From here on out it's easy peazy with a small army of folks to help you from A to Z.

Ask before you do anything you are unsure of. We will GLADY give you the green light, or caution with an explanation of why.

 

[PoolStored]

I bought the two extra things I thought I needed for FAS-DPD. Does it look like I have what I need to test at higher levels?

Why does the pool math tell me my target is outside the recommended range? I went there to find out how much liquid chlorine to use.

Yes, you have it. The dropper bottle and the container with white powder and scoop.

Directions to use it here: FAS-DPD Chlorine Test

Ignore the warning. It is comparing the target (24) to the recommended range for your CYA (the 5-9 in your screen shot). What it is telling you is true, but if you want to slam, it will take you out of NORMAL recommended range.

Slam on!

 

[PoolStored]

And here is the question producing the most anxiety. Do I have to remove the pool lights and clean behind them? Please say no….

Maaaaaybe. You said "new pool owner," are you new to pool ownership, or is the pool new? If new, do you have the make and model of the lights? If not, take a picture of any/all lights and we'll tell you. If you need to remove them, they are likely not difficult to clean.

 

[smithkl]

I guess it’s the old school one? I have 2. If water can get back there then will the super chlorinated get back there and kill what might be hiding?

 

[newdude]

I guess it’s the old school one?

Looks like it. That one screw should remove the faceplate and then the light can pull out and be placed on the deck. It's not always needed and usually skipped because it's a PITA. If the SLAM drags on and you can't pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, we'll revisit this.

If water can get back there then will the super chlorinated get back there and kill what might be hiding?

Maybe. Circulation back there is terrible at best. And if it's all gunked up in there, it needs to be scrubbed clean because the SLAM water can only do so much. Algae grows a biofilm to protect itself from harsh climates. It's why you need to brush the pool daily to break new layers free so that they can be exposed to die during SLAM. Look at you, all learning and stuff.

 

[PoolStored]

Looks like it. That one screw should remove the faceplate and then the light can pull out and be placed on the deck. It's not always needed and usually skipped because it's a PITA. If the SLAM drags on and you can't pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, we'll revisit this.

@Newdude and me, and a bunch of other guides and Experts all chime in to help with our expertise. Sometimes we don't agree. This is one of the *RARE* times (maybe the only time yet?) we disagree. I know him well enough that he is trying to keep it simple because you are anxious and overwhelmed and doesn't want to add to it. I think in this case, you should clean it. It will give you confidence. It is simple to remove and scrub this light. It is 9x out of 10, when people are struggling with a SLAM that it is a light, a weir door foam, or inside a ladder that has algae that keeps chewing through chlorine. You have to scrub it to break the biofilm and allow the chlorine to kill it. Ask ME how I know! HA! (ok, I didn't check the inside of my ladder during my only SLAM. Extended my slam 3 days).

Unscrew the screw in the light. Pull the top of the silver trim ring gently away from the pool side. the trim is vertical when the screw is in. When you have moved the top away from the side about 30 degrees, stop and lift the light straight up. Should lift easily. The wire will be wrapped around little arm behind the light. Just unwrap the wire and you should be able to put it on the deck. When it is clean, you will see the fingers that hold the bottom of the light. Align the finger down and put it back in with the same 30 degree tilt. When the bottom is seated, push the top back in place and put the screw back in.

It really is simple. Scrub Everything.

 

[smithkl]

Thanks to both of you. LAST question (for today ).
Could I be reintroducing algae from my Polaris and brushes and net? Do I put all those in the water during the slam? Expensive Polaris will be ok?