re-plastering pool

[hillbie]

Hello, new to the group, so of course I'm hear to learn and ask for advice. We live in Los Angeles & bought our house in 1983 with an existing pool from the 70's. We stripped down to the gunite & resurfaced with new plaster in 1986 and have acid washed twice. We maintain the pool ourselves & use a Kreepy Krauly. We were recently told to replace the water because it was bad (old), it wasn't holding chemicals and in doing so, we discovered hollow spots (they can be heard by tapping or running a hammer edge). The surface doesn't look bad, but it's rough & it's time. I've attached a pic of the empty pool, since you like pics. We're going to use the TFP method moving forward.

Good 'ol fashion white (marble) plaster is our product of choice and new tile. Our pool builder comes higher recommended! However, we're going to do our best to make sure this plaster lasts as long as our previous plaster. I've read that plaster lasts 7-10 years....I can't believe that work has become so shoddy or maybe laws have changed and require the use of less effective material. The PB provides start-up for 7-10 days, that includes vacuuming and water testing.

So we don't know what we don't know.......We'd like to learn what to look out for. They will be stripping out the old plaster down to the gunite. How many coats of plaster should we "see" applied? Will they be applied separately or all together? Are all the layers white? Do we need to make sure steps & corners are applied with a heavier layers? Anything special for the Jacuzzi? I read that so much can go wrong with the workmanship that won't appear until years later. What should we be watching for as they are re-plastering? How are workers cutting corners to get the job done faster? In hopes that the workers will put their best foot forward, I'll give them some cash upon arrival

TIA!!!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Stripping off the old: new plaster does not adhere well to old plaster so the more plaster removed the better. Flat chisels remove less Shotcrete/Gunite than pointed tip chisels. Sandblasting the shell will remove all the plaster and the least amount of substrate.
Deep cut at the tile line is important for the new plaster to adhere to also.
End of steps and seats should be at a 45 from horizontal to vertical so to insure a proper thickness on the edges.
A clean shell prior to application is very important and needs to be hydrated.
Application: Weather at time of application ( no Santa Ana winds ), cutting corners may happen if the crew is short handed for your job. 10 person crew is what my plaster company shows up with every time and they only have one crew (no B team). When they need to buy time during application they may want to re-hydrate the plaster and this will trap water between layers and is not good practice.

 

[sktn77a]

We were recently told to replace the water because it was bad (old), it wasn't holding chemicals

Well, that sounds like a load of hogwash. However, if you're re-plastering the pool it would have to go anyway.

Plaster should be applied in a single coat in 1 day. They shouldn't use more than 1.5% CaCl accelerator in the plaster mix or you'll have soft, blotchy plaster and they shouldn't over-trowel it. As long as the surface is prepped correctly, you should be fine.

 

[hillbie]

Stripping off the old: new plaster does not adhere well to old plaster so the more plaster removed the better. Flat chisels remove less Shotcrete/Gunite than pointed tip chisels. Sandblasting the shell will remove all the plaster and the least amount of substrate.
Deep cut at the tile line is important for the new plaster to adhere to also.
End of steps and seats should be at a 45 from horizontal to vertical so to insure a proper thickness on the edges.
A clean shell prior to application is very important and needs to be hydrated.
Application: Weather at time of application ( no Santa Ana winds ), cutting corners may happen if the crew is short handed for your job. 10 person crew is what my plaster company shows up with every time and they only have one crew (no B team). When they need to buy time during application they may want to re-hydrate the plaster and this will trap water between layers and is not good practice.

Thanks! This is all good info. It sounds like you might be in my area (santa Ana winds). I'm in Rancho Palos Verdes. Am I allowed to communicate with you, to get a bid if you work in my area? I haven't signed any contracts. I don't know the group protocols. Please message me if allowed.

 

[ajw22]

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HermanTX]

Completely chip out the old plaster. Ensure they undercut the waterline tile and around the return pipes to allow a good transition of new plaster to existing components.

On Day of Plaster -prepare and do the following:

• Clean up around the pool area the day before - brush any dirt/mud or debris that could be tracked into the pool during or after plaster
• Verify that the bags of plaster are the proper type and color you selected on morning of plaster.
• Take a sample of the mixture when they are applying it to the pool by pouring some in a small clear plastic cup (good for reference later)
• Do they have all the proper return nozzles and drain covers (type and color) to place after plaster installed
• Have you tested your fill water? Are you filling with softened water or regular tap water?
• Have your hose ready (and clean) as it will be laying in the pool.
• Tie a sock or cloth around the nozzle so it does not sit on the plaster.
• Put the end of the hose at the lowest part of the pool to avoid channeling in the new plaster. Also, consider tying a plastic jug to the nozzle such that it will float up as the water rises.
• Ensure you take note (or a picture) of your water meter reading before you start to fill
• Be prepared to take note of your water meter as the pool reaches certain levels, i.e bottom of bottom step, top of bottom step, etc. (it helps in the future to know volume of your pool at certain levels - should you ever have to drain portion of it)
• Plan to set an alarm every 4 hours (or so) to ensure hose is still in pool, no debris blew into pool, etc.
• Do NOT stop the flow of water once the pool starts filling as doing so could cause a ring on the new plaster.
• Take a picture of any chemicals they bring on site that they plan to dump in when they start to add water to pool
• Continue to fill pool to center of water tile or center of skimmer. Take picture of water meter at end of fill. Subtract the starting meter reading to give you the total volume of pool and can subtract approximately 80 gals per person to account for bath water, washing, dishwasher, etc. while pool was filling.
• Get clear instructions from PB as what to do the day the pool is full - how often to brush, will the pump be turned on, etc.
• Define with PB when he will be back out to set up water chemistry.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Here’s some prep work pictures
plastic surrounds the pool deck, adding a umbrella sleve last minute, taping return jets prior to installation