I took a sample to leslie to get another test result and their analysis of my water said I had 40 ppm CYA while my Taylor test (new regent) I can still see the black dot perfectly and 750 Phosphates and they blamed it on high Phosphates. I also started using Bioguard 60 algaecide (which I'm sold on using to control algae because even with the chlorine issue, no algae and clear water) and I do balance before adding it too as instructed (although next day chlorine is zero again). Now I read that Phosphates are already oxidized so it does not use up chlorine it's just a food source for algae is the danger, algae is the reason chlorine used up. This is so overwhelming to do figure out all the time. My ph I have managed to control around 7.6-7.8 with acid every couple of days and TA around 100 but today for the first time was 80 which I never had before and PH 7.8. I don't really want to confuse things but I did add some Borax supreme after I refilled my pool last spring but not a full dose which didn't seem to do much good on controlling PH but the water sure sparkled. Otherwise, I'm using Magic Acid now which I have no problem working with instead of dry acid which was expensive because it takes so much to get the ph to lower and almost doesn't effect TA at all and I know it also adds sulfates a TDS too, what isn't? I'm almost wondering if it's easier to control your chemicals with tablets and just deal with the CYA at the end of the summer! I've also had to use a different brand of liquid chlorine than what I was buying at the pool store as it doubled in price, so I'm using a less potent brand now and just using more, tried shocking with hypo chloride and next morning it's zero ppm but I don't want to increase my calcium hardeness so I'm careful with that too. Pulling my hair out! I live in AZ cooling off now has lowered water temp a lot which helps lower demand and potential for alage growth. Crazy thing is the HASA tech support who is also a Phoenix resident, that he keeps his CYA at 10 ppm which also contrary to information in the general pop.
I read one thread on here to keep pouring chlorine in every 15 mins, test, fill until it holds but they said thei cya test was showing 30. How can I test zero in my Taylor test kit and Leslie test says the same water in their automated test system reads 40 which i would clearly see on a Taylor tube. I'm thinking I need more CYA even though it's not suppose to dissipate (I think no chlorine will lower CYA residuals IMO), but the Leslie test makes me concerned I'm not getting the right reading and I might add to the problem putting more in! Frustrated and Exhausted!
I read one thread on here to keep pouring chlorine in every 15 mins, test, fill until it holds but they said thei cya test was showing 30. How can I test zero in my Taylor test kit and Leslie test says the same water in their automated test system reads 40 which i would clearly see on a Taylor tube. I'm thinking I need more CYA even though it's not suppose to dissipate (I think no chlorine will lower CYA residuals IMO), but the Leslie test makes me concerned I'm not getting the right reading and I might add to the problem putting more in! Frustrated and Exhausted!
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