Startup plaster and chemicals

In reality, that doesn't mean it's in line with the plaster manufacturers recommendation or even industry standards - it therefore many not be 'traditional'.

Who is providing the plaster warranty - builder or plaster company or someone else? Do you have that in writing?
What is the finish - plaster, quartz, pebble, other?

In any case, follow the instructions of whoever is providing the plaster warranty.
 
In reality, that doesn't mean it's in line with the plaster manufacturers recommendation or even industry standards - it therefore many not be 'traditional'.

Who is providing the plaster warranty - builder or plaster company or someone else? Do you have that in writing?
What is the finish - plaster, quartz, pebble, other?

In any case, follow the instructions of whoever is providing the plaster warranty.
Warranty is through builder for the quartz plaster. The plaster bag mentioned CYA range less than 50 ppm for first 30 days
 
Startup instructions said no stabilizer until day 14.. FC did drop back to .5 overnight. Added around 40 oz LC this morning and back to 3.5 FC. 1 hr later, down to between 2.5 and 3 FC. Another hr later, down to 1.5 FC

4th through 28th Day​

  1. Test pH, Carbonate Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness and repeat 1st day, Steps 1 through 5, for the first 14 days. Carbonate or Corrected Alkalinity is Total Alkalinity – 1/3 Cyanuric Acid Reading.
  2. After the 4th Day, calcium levels should be adjusted slowly over the 28-day period not to exceed 200 ppm.
  3. After the 4th day, adjust cyanuric acid levels to 30 to 50 ppm based on the primary sanitizer of the pool (pre-dissolve and add through the skimmer).
  4. On the 7th day, if there is any plaster dust remaining – remove it using a brush pool vacuum.
 

4th through 28th Day​

  1. Test pH, Carbonate Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness and repeat 1st day, Steps 1 through 5, for the first 14 days. Carbonate or Corrected Alkalinity is Total Alkalinity – 1/3 Cyanuric Acid Reading.
  2. After the 4th Day, calcium levels should be adjusted slowly over the 28-day period not to exceed 200 ppm.
  3. After the 4th day, adjust cyanuric acid levels to 30 to 50 ppm based on the primary sanitizer of the pool (pre-dissolve and add through the skimmer).
  4. On the 7th day, if there is any plaster dust remaining – remove it using a brush pool vacuum.
Forgot to add if you don't have CYA minimum 30, the chlorine, your sanitizer will not hold, so you are just barely attacking the green, and losing ground at that.
 
Forgot to add if you don't have CYA minimum 30, the chlorine, your sanitizer will not hold, so you are just barely attacking the green, and losing ground at that.
I’ve noticed this today. Put in a gallon of LC and hasn’t held at all. So adding a gallon of CYA all around the pool at once to get it around 30 ppm should help here right?
 
I’ve noticed this today. Put in a gallon of LC and hasn’t held at all. So adding a gallon of CYA all around the pool at once to get it around 30 ppm should help here right?
put all your numbers in pool math, the liquid CYA, and it should tell you the exact amount. Note TFP like the CYA in a sock better, less expensive, and you can just squeeze the sock in front of the return and it dissolves over a couple hours. The true amount in your pool may not show up for a couple days, has to circulate, etc. If you are using liquid CYA, you will start to notice that when you test the CL, add what you need, circulate, and test again in an hour, more and more CL will hold. Now it will still go down as the algae is eating at it. That's why you also do the overnight chlorine lose test.
Add chlorine right at nightfall, circulate, and test. Then first thing in AM before sunlight, test Chlorine. That lose of CL will be from algae, not the sun. Gives you an idea of what you are fighting. The guys giving you advice know so much more than me, keep the process going, and heed their advice. Good luck.
 
Gives you an idea of what you are fighting. The guys giving you advice know so much more than me, keep the process going, and heed their advice. Good luck.

He is not fighting algae. He is doing the startup of new plaster. Do not confuse him with SLAM advice.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
If you insist on using liquid stabilizer then shake the bottle well and be sure you pour in the solids that settle into the bottom of the bottle.

One of the problems with liquid CYA is the active ingredients tend to settle out and simply pouring in the liquid gets you less CYA then you expect.

Solid stabilizer is more reliable and costs half the price.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you insist on using liquid stabilizer then shake the bottle well and be sure you pour in the solids that settle into the bottom of the bottle.

One of the problems with liquid CYA is the active ingredients tend to settle out and simply pouring in the liquid gets you less CYA then you expect.

Solid stabilizer is more reliable and costs half the price.
I’ll check out the solid stabilizer thanks! I added CYA last night followed by LC.

Lots of sun yesterday and more today.

Current numbers:
FC 3
TA 80
CYA 30
CH 125
pH 7.5
 
Your CYA is fine at 30.

You should be working on raising your CH to at least 300 now.

You don’t want to close your pool with CH 125 water.
 
Will the CH rise on its own while plaster is curing?
Nope, you hope not.

If it does it means your water is leaching calcium from the plaster and weakening it. That is what low CSI and low calcium water does.
 
Nope, you hope not.

If it does it means your water is leaching calcium from the plaster and weakening it. That is what low CSI and low calcium water does.
Got some Clorox CH from Walmart and says add 1/3 (4 lbs bag)in deep end every 6 hrs until increases to target range
 
PB is trying to schedule free “pool closing.” Is there any gotchas to be on the lookout for? We haven’t hit the 2 wk mark and many of the start up activities are incomplete + the pool cover core holes for the springs haven’t been installed yet. I suspect sometime in October would make sense.

Does the SWG (doesn’t startup until mid September) need to be ran for a period of time before closing?
 
With new plaster you want to close as late as possible so that you can keep lowering your pH.

The plaster curing with the pool closed can cause the pH to get very high and cause scale to accumulate on pool surfaces.

My closing in NJ is scheduled for October 19. That should be right before the leaves begin dropping. If I keep my pool open longer the leaves are a mess to clean up and their tannins can stin the pool surfaces.

So I suggest you look to close in mid October. That is about the latest you can push it in our area.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.