Some algae problem

[ANash]

I can see your logs now. With a pool your size it might be worth while testing FC at several locations to see if you have uniformity and/or have a location that is lowest FC level.

Interesting. I did not consider that to be a possibility. I will check FC at couple different locations.

 

[ANash]

I can see your logs now. With a pool your size it might be worth while testing FC at several locations to see if you have uniformity and/or have a location that is lowest FC level.

Checked the area of high flow between the return ports and the area of least flow (shaded area with the highest growth of algae). The FC levels were same at 20.5ppm.

 

[ANash]

Avi,

Just to ask the obvious are you testing with the FAS DPD or the oto for the FC result? You're probably doing it right but the formation of algae blooms in the pool bottom is not possible at the FC levels you report with your CYA level. So this has to be a flow issue where locally you don't have adequate water movement that can be changed by changing the orientation of your returns, circulating longer, or increasing your FC level, or could be a test issue.

Chris

Hi Chris,

It could be a testing issue.

I just finished The R-0871 that came with the tf100. I did another test with a new Taylor 0871. The difference was about 2ppm lower FC with the Taylor.

I also noticed the water after testing with the Taylor reagent was clearer. With the original one, water would be hazy . Don't know if that makes a difference.

I am going to continue slam using the Taylor agent.

Once done, what should be the FC maintained at?

Cheers,
Avi

 

[ANash]

Hi all,

I have successful completed slam.

Just wondering, in your guys opinion, what FC level should be maintained.

Previously, I was maintaining FC between 7 and 9 for cya of 60.

Still algae came back.

Now, the cya is closer to 50.

Maybe I should keep FC around 11. But if cya is at 50, would that be detrimental in any way to have a higher FC for that cya?

Appreciate all opinions and suggestions.

Cheers,
Avi

 

[setsailsoon]

Avi,

If it was me I'd run higher for a while to account for potential variations in your large pool. Eventually you should be able to drop down to target range and run at the high end of target. I think what may be happening is you have some spores in the hard to reach areas that germinate and take up residence in the lower flow areas. Eventually when you should be able to get them all. This is my guess not definitely proven science. Anything up to slam level is fine. So there's nothing wrong with 11 FC.

Chris

 

[ANash]

Avi,

If it was me I'd run higher for a while to account for potential variations in your large pool. Eventually you should be able to drop down to target range and run at the high end of target. I think what may be happening is you have some spores in the hard to reach areas that germinate and take up residence in the lower flow areas. Eventually when you should be able to get them all. This is my guess not definitely proven science. Anything up to slam level is fine. So there's nothing wrong with 11 FC.

Chris

Hi Chris.

Thanks for the reply. I will keep FC at 11.

Should it be kept at that level for couple of months?

I also purchased a zodiac mx6 and will install the turbine with the scrubber. I hope that will also help prevent algae bloom.

Thanks,
Avi

 

[Mdragger88]

Maybe try staying above mustard algae min. For your cya
Some people need to do this for an extended time.

Chlorine/CYA Chart

EDIT: You will find a simplified and standardized version of this chart at Pool School, Chlorine / CYA Chart. Chlorine/CYA Chart by Chemgeek FC = Free Chlorine in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA = Cyanuric Acid in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA ........... Min FC3 ..... Target FC ...... Yel/Mstrd...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ANash]

Maybe try staying above mustard algae min. For your cya
Some people need to do this for an extended time.

Chlorine/CYA Chart

EDIT: You will find a simplified and standardized version of this chart at Pool School, Chlorine / CYA Chart. Chlorine/CYA Chart by Chemgeek FC = Free Chlorine in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA = Cyanuric Acid in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA ........... Min FC3 ..... Target FC ...... Yel/Mstrd...

www.troublefreepool.com

Should I have shocked at yellow mustard level?

At 50 cya - suggested Mustard algae shock is around 35 ppm. I took it up to 24 ppm only.

I am planning to maintain around 11 ppm, much higher than the min for mustard algae.

 

[Mdragger88]

Depends on if u think it could be the problem.
It will just cost a little liquid chlorine.
Here’s the protocol-

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ANash]

Depends on if u think it could be the problem.
It will just cost a little liquid chlorine.
Here’s the protocol-

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you

 

[ANash]

Depends on if u think it could be the problem.
It will just cost a little liquid chlorine.
Here’s the protocol-

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.troublefreepool.com

If I maintain at 11 ppm FC, how do I check for ph? My understanding is ph reading isnot accurate above 10 ppm FC.

 

[IceShadow]

You'll have to let it drift down to about 10 and test pH then, before adding more FC to bring it up higher.

 

[ANash]

You'll have to let it drift down to about 10 and test pH then, before adding more FC to bring it up higher.

Got it.

Thanks IceShadow.

 

[ANash]

Update.

Pool is algae free so far. I am trying to maintain FC between 9 and 11.

Thanks for all the guidance.

The MX6 with the scrubber turbine is working great. The only issue is the hose gets stuck around the vertical zodiac leaf canister, and has to be manually untangled. I have to figure something out for that. A short hose ( to keep canister close to the wall) is $15-$20, and seems pricy.

I guess, next would be tweaking the other parameters.

TA - 130
CH - 310

What is recommended as the next steps?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers,
Avi

 

[IceShadow]

Update.

Pool is algae free so far. I am trying to maintain FC between 9 and 11.

Thanks for all the guidance.

The MX6 with the scrubber turbine is working great. The only issue is the hose gets stuck around the vertical zodiac leaf canister, and has to be manually untangled. I have to figure something out for that. A short hose ( to keep canister close to the wall) is $15-$20, and seems pricy.

I guess, next would be tweaking the other parameters.

TA - 130
CH - 310

What is recommended as the next steps?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers,
Avi

Looks good to me. Go swimming

 

[setsailsoon]

Update.

Pool is algae free so far. I am trying to maintain FC between 9 and 11.

Thanks for all the guidance.

The MX6 with the scrubber turbine is working great. The only issue is the hose gets stuck around the vertical zodiac leaf canister, and has to be manually untangled. I have to figure something out for that. A short hose ( to keep canister close to the wall) is $15-$20, and seems pricy.

I guess, next would be tweaking the other parameters.

TA - 130
CH - 310

What is recommended as the next steps?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers,
Avi

Avi,

I think you're on the right track and if it ain't broke don't fix it may be advised at least for a while. I don't think you need any further action. As you adjust pH your TA will slowly decline. The lower it gets the easier it will be to control pH. Some people let it drop down to lower than target to make pH control easier. I ran mine at 50 for years. Only other thing I'd say is consider a salt conversion... but I think that was already mentioned.

Thanks for the follow up!

Chris

 

[ANash]

Looks good to me. Go swimming

Indeed. My kids are already enjoying the pool.

 

[ANash]

Avi,

I think you're on the right track and if it ain't broke don't fix it may be advised at least for a while. I don't think you need any further action. As you adjust pH your TA will slowly decline. The lower it gets the easier it will be to control pH. Some people let it drop down to lower than target to make pH control easier. I ran mine at 50 for years. Only other thing I'd say is consider a salt conversion... but I think that was already mentioned.

Thanks for the follow up!

Chris

Thanks Chris. Appreciate all your help.

Cheers

 

[ANash]

Hi all,

Hope everyone is doing well and enjoying their pool this summer.

Update on my pool.

The pool, I think, is doing well. I have not had any issues with algae growth.

Now, I am learning to control the other parameters.

I have been testing water regularly and I notice few parameters, that I wonder, have to be addressed.

TA, is currently at 90. I think it is okay.

PH does not seem very stable. I keep adding muriatic acid every other day to keep it in the right range. Is this normal?
Muriatic acid at Leslie's pool is quite expensive. Are there any other options?

CYA , at 40 is okay as well.

Calcium hardness, is very high. However, the test and color changes is very unclear. Test is supposed to start with a red color and then end at A blue color. My test looks like it starts at a dark pink and then progresses through varying shades of purple and then it ends at what looks like blue. I just hope I am reading it correctly. I do not notice any calcium buildup on any surfaces of pool, except a white line along the water fall rocks.

Is there anything I should be doing? Or, are these parameters still okay.

Thank you,
Avi

 

[PoolStored]

TA, is currently at 90. I think it is okay.

It is fine.

PH does not seem very stable. I keep adding muriatic acid every other day to keep it in the right range. Is this normal?
Muriatic acid at Leslie's pool is quite expensive. Are there any other options?

Higher TA and Aeration (read as "waterfall") will raise pH. The more you run your waterfall, the faster pH will rise. As you add MA, your TA will continue to come down.

CYA , at 40 is okay as well.

Nice!

Calcium hardness, is very high. However, the test and color changes is very unclear. Test is supposed to start with a red color and then end at A blue color. My test looks like it starts at a dark pink and then progresses through varying shades of purple and then it ends at what looks like blue. I just hope I am reading it correctly. I do not notice any calcium buildup on any surfaces of pool, except a white line along the water fall rocks.

You are reading correctly. You continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.

Is there anything I should be doing? Or, are these parameters still okay.

Nope, doing great!